Yesterday I was driving my 02 Z06 and both the traction/active handleing lights came on. I checked the codes and c1214 came up. Every thread shows EBCM. Not really sure what it does but I was asking you all to see if anybody knows if this definitely the issue and if they can recomend anyone's who rebuilds these units, or if it's better to buy a new one.

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-fleabay.html.

Followed those instructions and fixed mine. Hardest part was getting the case apart.

 

I had the 1214 code and turned out the be the EBCM. I bought a new one three years ago on Amazon for $500. All vendors now seem to be out of stock. You may have no choice, but to get yours fixed.

 

Several forum vendors can fix most later model (2001 and up)
EBCMs. John Llewellyn is one of them (854-604-0498).

 

You are lucky. C1214 is the one ABS Fixer can fix. Once done it will be better than new. https://www.absfixer.com/

 

Ditto

 

I agree. Sending the EBCM out to get it fixed is silly...95% of the effort is just getting the unit out of the car.


The Lizzard

 

Instructions on how to crack the case are buried in that 24 page thread. Here are the instructions I used, supplemented with my own modification:

"I followed the detailed instructions provided by NVUSGT, Bill Curlee and others and successfully repaired my balky EBCM.

Like others, I found that a faulty relay solder joint was the culprit that was triggering warning lights and the C-1214 fault code.

Here's something I will add to NVUSGT's write up, specifically his comment that reads:

"Now in order to remove the case I followed these steps:

1. remove 4 x screws
2. remove silicon from that hole on the back lower corner of the EBCM.
3. use a 2BA (or similar) 'thread tap' to cut a thread in that hole
4. screw matching thread screw/bolt into hole, (it misses pcb inside) until it touches cover plate (screw/bolt needs to be 3" long max).
5. carry on winding the screw in until it starts pushing the cover plate away enough to break that gasket seal and allow space to insert those flat blade screwdrivers and work around the remainder. (Thank You JerseyC5)."

In my case, I used a #8-32 thread tap (bought at Home Depot) to successfully cut a thread in the hole on the back corner of the EBCM. After opening the box with a 2" #8-32 stainless steel screw, I discovered why employing a thread tap was necessary. A combination of silicon and, I think, box wall material were obstructing the screw's path to the plate, and nothing short of a thread tap could have cleared up that path.

FYI, I used a stainless steel screw to reduce the possibility that it would snap off in the EBCM box...a problem noted by an earlier poster to this thread."

The Lizzard

 

I didn't tap the hole, probably would've been easier doing it this way. But still not to bad of a job for a couple hours work and a tube of sealant. If I can remember, two of the screws were kinda hard to get to with a normal length torx driver. It's been awhile since I did mine though. Good point on the ss screw, what a pain that'd be if one broke.

 

I started having the same problem on my 03 coupe with 109,000 at the first time. Just showing the C 1214 code. Checked all the front end grounds and all wheel abs connections. It's not consistent as in it may stay clear for several start up and run about times and then start it up and it's there. Drive it about 4 to 10 miles, park it, shut all off and it's gone off the int panel next time I start it.
Probably should of pulled it off when changing out the hp power steering hose last month. But with the nice weather and in a hurry to get it back on the road didn't.
But, will be a project for next winter when it's cool enough for me to want to work in the garage without being in a hurry.
Thanks for all the info on getting it done yourself.

 

Caution: Don't conclude that an intermittent warring signal suggests a different problem.

Your car's "intermittent" warning light symptoms are identical to my car's symptoms, at least for the first couple of months. Thereafter my idiot lights stayed on all the time. Re-soldering all of the contact points fixed the problem.


The Lizzard