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If you have access to a lift, it makes things much easier. Even if you don't, all you need to do is jack one end of the car at a time to get to the sway bars. Very straightforward access, you will know it as soon as you get a good look at it. There is nothing to remove to get to the sway bars.
This is a nice upgrade and with a set of ramps, it is a nice half day Saturday morning project...
Bill aka ET
If I have ramps on the front what do I do to the rear? What is the correct way to install these, do they go on a certain way, do I need to grease the parts?
You can do one end at a time. Ramp up the front, swap out the front, then ramp up the back, and swap out the back. No greasing needed. They only go on one way, if you have them on the opposite way, you'll quickly realize it. Just observe how they were originally installed.
If I have ramps on the front what do I do to the rear? What is the correct way to install these, do they go on a certain way, do I need to grease the parts?
Really?? you ask this question.. Have you ever work on a car? why do you need to raise the back end when you are doing the front? Ill give you a clue here... once the front is done, you back off the ramps, move them to the rear, drive up on them then do the rear sways and end links...
Do they go on a certain ways???
they go one the same way they come off.
Do I need to grease the parts ?
Only the part that have grease on them when you remove them. None.
Some people will grease the bushings , but if you get New bushings , ( recommended ) they do not need to be greased.
The fact that you want to get under your car and replace suspension parts and are asking these question is very very concerning to me..
One more forum member shot down because they weren't born a master tech with 3 engineering degrees and 50 years of knowing more about everything automotive than the rest of the planet.
We all started somewhere and if the answer to "Have you ever worked on a car?" is no then I think the OP's desire to dive in and do something himself regardless of current skill level is admirable and doesn't deserve ridicule or condisention.
Bad form on this one ET.
Last edited by norcalace; Jul 26, 2017 at 07:40 AM.
One more forum member shot down because they weren't born a master tech with 3 engineering degrees and 50 years of knowing more about everything automotive than the rest of the planet.
We all started somewhere and if the answer to "Have you ever worked on a car?" is no then I think the OP's desire to dive in and do something himself regardless of current skill level is admirable and doesn't deserve ridicule or condisention.
Bad form on this one ET.
I have done a few minor things to a car, I know very little about doing electrical and mechanical stuff. Yes I do want to learn. I ask a lot of questions, just want to make sure I am doing it right.
They're very easy to swap out; a good afternoon project even if you're not done it before.
- You'll probably want to purchase new end links. I don't know what year car you have, but prior to 2002 the end links were made of a plastic construction. 2002 onwards they are of metal. Regardless it's still a good idea to replace them with a quality aftermarket unit as they are a functional part to the sway bars.
- It's also advisable to replace the sandwich bushings that holds the sway bar. You can go two routes here. You can get a rubber replacement and be fine. Some upgrade to a poly bushing, which will undoubtedly require lubrication when installing. Poly will last a tremendously long time though compared to rubber which is much susceptible to weather and wear.
It's seriously not that difficult of a job. Either ramp one end of the car up at a time and swap them out, or if all you have is a jack get one end of the car in the air, swap, then go to the other end. When using a floor jack I usually jack the rear of the car up first, then go to the front as the car will be a little higher in the front allowing the jack to slip under. Then support on stands (four jack stands help out tremendously here).
If you've been thinking about lowering your car this would also be the perfect time to do it as you'll have access to the bolts on the leafs.
I upgraded my 2001 to C6 Z51 (had the OEM metal endlinks). Mine is a daily driver, F45 suspension.
What I noticed: crisper and sharper steering. Ride quality is not any worse. Flatter in the corners (tour now feels like performance in the corners, and performance is flatter). Feels more controllable taking corners at high speed.
I upgraded my 2001 to C6 Z51 (had the OEM metal endlinks). Mine is a daily driver, F45 suspension.
What I noticed: crisper and sharper steering. Ride quality is not any worse. Flatter in the corners (tour now feels like performance in the corners, and performance is flatter). Feels more controllable taking corners at high speed.
I have a 2004, but not the selectable ride option. Does that matter?
One more forum member shot down because they weren't born a master tech with 3 engineering degrees and 50 years of knowing more about everything automotive than the rest of the planet.
We all started somewhere and if the answer to "Have you ever worked on a car?" is no then I think the OP's desire to dive in and do something himself regardless of current skill level is admirable and doesn't deserve ridicule or condisention.
Bad form on this one ET.
It doesn't take a master tech to replace sway bars... My degrees are irrelevant but they seem to strike a nerve with you for some petty reason. If you think it requires a master tech certification or three degrees to change sway bars, maybe you should rethink your ability to offer technical advice. You missed the part about my concern for the guys safety since he asked such concerning question.. you took it as an opportunity for a cheap shot.. I was trying to get his attention..
Larger diameter sways keep the center of gravity more centered, it adds a degree of handling stability but as I have said thousands of times, everything is a trade off. Larger diameter sways will decrease ride ( comfort ) quality.
It really is as simple as it sounds....probably the easiest thing you can ever do to a C5.
I did this upgrade years ago. In my case I used a torque wrench and torqued all the connectors to spec. I also found that using an open end wrench behind the metal end links when torquing them down was more solid than trying to use the Torx head in the end of the threaded stems on the end links.
I did this upgrade years ago. In my case I used a torque wrench and torqued all the connectors to spec. I also found that using an open end wrench behind the metal end links when torquing them down was more solid than trying to use the Torx head in the end of the threaded stems on the end links.
I torque every single nut and bolt every time I touch one. There is only one right way to do anything. With so much aluminum alloy, torqueing is essential.
Get into the habit because bad habits come easy...