Adding a key
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 471
From: S.E. Pennsylvania
Adding a key
I found that to add a new key to an existing key I can have the resistance of the existing key measured at the dealer and simply place an order through an online vendor. This seems too easy and the price is $29.95. Since I'm a new owner I don't know if this is a possibility.
I only have one key and one fob at this point.
I only have one key and one fob at this point.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 782
From: Fort Myers Beach Florida
A local key maker was able to make me a duplicate, he measured the resistor, had the right blank in stock and it was under $25, no mail order waiting, done in 15 minutes. You'll need to get the correct blank and have someone else cut it if you go that way
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 352
From: Carson City Nevada
Ddaaryl has the right idea. Most locksmith stores have the resistor blanks in stock since most vehicles now use them. It should be something that you don't have to wait for online because you might pay more. Just don't buy it at your local Chevy dealer.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,498
Likes: 680
From: The beautiful Alabama Gulf Coast!!
I followed 8Vette7's advice, measured my key's resistance and bought the appropriate keys off eBay. Lowes cut the new keys I provided at no charge. You can program up to three FOBs and have as many extra keys as you want.
Last edited by Mickeyrx70; Aug 7, 2017 at 01:19 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 315
St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Easiest way is to either have someone hold it or put it into a vice lightly. That makes it easier to touch both sides of the pellet in the key. With the meter set up to measure ohms and the range set to 2K (unless it is an auto ranging meter) place one probe on one side of the pellet and the other probe on the other side of the pellet. Be careful NOT to touch the shank of the key.
Read the meter. For example a reading of .685 is then read as 685 ohms and is key #3 because its resistance is between the 650 and 728 range allowed for key #3 per the table posted above.....
Read the meter. For example a reading of .685 is then read as 685 ohms and is key #3 because its resistance is between the 650 and 728 range allowed for key #3 per the table posted above.....
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 411
From: Somewhere in the middle of Kansas
I think the resistance would stay fairly consistent over time. I bought the extra keys and key fobs off ebay for around $12 and $15 respectively and then my local locksmith cut the keys for free. He also said, by the way, I do sell those keys $15 each. I would have just bought from him had I known.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 471
From: S.E. Pennsylvania
Easiest way is to either have someone hold it or put it into a vice lightly. That makes it easier to touch both sides of the pellet in the key. With the meter set up to measure ohms and the range set to 2K (unless it is an auto ranging meter) place one probe on one side of the pellet and the other probe on the other side of the pellet. Be careful NOT to touch the shank of the key.
Read the meter. For example a reading of .685 is then read as 685 ohms and is key #3 because its resistance is between the 650 and 728 range allowed for key #3 per the table posted above.....
Read the meter. For example a reading of .685 is then read as 685 ohms and is key #3 because its resistance is between the 650 and 728 range allowed for key #3 per the table posted above.....
Had the wife hold the plastic top and I measured the pellet on both sides with the leads. Bingo! I need a #12 key blank. Thanks again everyone.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 471
From: S.E. Pennsylvania
If the resistance for your key gets outside the allowed range for your key number (see chart above) then the car is NOT going to start and the security light will stay on when the key is left in the ON position. So the resistance can't go far bad without this noticeable event occurring..........
More often than not what happens to the pellet or the sensing components inside the key cylinder is that they get a coat of oxidation that prevents the actual resistance from being read correctly. A quick "eraser from the end of a pencil" across both sides of the pellet will remove that oxidation/tarnish. A shot or two of electrical contact cleaner inside the key cylinder followed by inserting the key multiple times into the cylinder and wiping the key off with a soft lint free cloth between insertions will take care of the oxidation/tarnish inside the cylinder.
More often than not what happens to the pellet or the sensing components inside the key cylinder is that they get a coat of oxidation that prevents the actual resistance from being read correctly. A quick "eraser from the end of a pencil" across both sides of the pellet will remove that oxidation/tarnish. A shot or two of electrical contact cleaner inside the key cylinder followed by inserting the key multiple times into the cylinder and wiping the key off with a soft lint free cloth between insertions will take care of the oxidation/tarnish inside the cylinder.
Good info. Thanks a lot...
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Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Philadelphia PA (Birthplace of the USA, UNESCO World Heritage City)
After measuring the resistance myself to figure out which VATS code my keys were assigned (very easy to do, google it), I bought a key blank that matched my VATS assignment for around $7 shipped on ebay.
Then had it cut locally.
Then had it cut locally.