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Gently run the back of your hand on a panel. (Don't rub any dirt in, just enough to feel the surface). If you feel ANY grit, a clay bar is a good idea. It also prevents any of the dirt you can't see(the grit) from coming loose and causing swirls
I found a product from Meguiar's that seems to do the same as claying.
It is their rubbing compound in the red bottle(safe for clear coat).
I had a large bird dropping on my pickup that had hardened by the time I found it.
I got most of it out,but it had etched into the finish a little.
Not bad, and most would never notice it, but being the fanatic I am when it comes to keeping my vehicles detailed, I decided instead of claying the spot, I would try rubbing compound.
This product is not super abrasive, and not only did it remove the signs of etching,but it left the area of the spot, and the surrounding area as smooth as glass.
I finished the spot with Meguiar's ultimate detail, and it is every bit as good as clay.
I think this is a good product to use instead of clay, and much easier to work with.
1) Wash the car
2) Clay the car
3) Polish the car (if needed)
4) Wax the car
Im going to state the obvious here:
You never want to clay a dirty car
Clay the car no more than twice a year (use as needed)
You always use the LEAST abrasive technique first when trying to get your paint smooth and shiny then working with more abrasive techniques as needed till you get the results you want
You always want to wax the car after you clay/polish to add a layer of protection
for what it's worth, I clay barred my silver 99 a week before a friend told me about Chadwick's. I thought it could not shine or look better, because I trust my friend, I thought I would try it. (not thinking it would make any improvement). I was blown away by the difference, then after using it more times it got even better !!!!
for what it's worth, I clay barred my silver 99 a week before a friend told me about Chadwick's. I thought it could not shine or look better, because I trust my friend, I thought I would try it. (not thinking it would make any improvement). I was blown away by the difference, then after using it more times it got even better !!!!
Without question, clay barring is the EASIEST way to improve your paint and the effectiveness of whatever wax you chose. There are lots of good instructions above.
It is easy because all you have to do is glide the bar over well lubricated paint, overlapping strokes. No rubbing, and no exertion. For me, the toughest part is holding onto the clay bar! )
I spray the car down with Iron X and let it do its thing. I then go over the car with the nano skin on my orbital buffer. This for me is way better and easier than using the clay bar. Especially if the car has a large quantity of contaminents. Would never go back to clay bar after these two steps!
No one mentioned using detail spray as a lubricant when using clay bar. By the way, the clay bar removes everything above the paint. After washing car, just lightly run fingers over the top portions and you will feel the grit. I've only used clay bar on hood and deck lid, sides don't seem to hold the dirt.
I spray the car down with Iron X and let it do its thing. I then go over the car with the nano skin on my orbital buffer. This for me is way better and easier than using the clay bar. Especially if the car has a large quantity of contaminents. Would never go back to clay bar after these two steps!
for what it's worth, I clay barred my silver 99 a week before a friend told me about Chadwick's. I thought it could not shine or look better, because I trust my friend, I thought I would try it. (not thinking it would make any improvement). I was blown away by the difference, then after using it more times it got even better !!!!
Sorry OP.
Pounder where can I find the hood liner piece for the top right corner ?
From: Philadelphia PA (Birthplace of the USA, UNESCO World Heritage City)
Originally Posted by calguy
I found a product from Meguiar's that seems to do the same as claying.
It is their rubbing compound in the red bottle(safe for clear coat).
I had a large bird dropping on my pickup that had hardened by the time I found it.
I got most of it out,but it had etched into the finish a little.
Not bad, and most would never notice it, but being the fanatic I am when it comes to keeping my vehicles detailed, I decided instead of claying the spot, I would try rubbing compound.
This product is not super abrasive, and not only did it remove the signs of etching,but it left the area of the spot, and the surrounding area as smooth as glass.
I finished the spot with Meguiar's ultimate detail, and it is every bit as good as clay.
I think this is a good product to use instead of clay, and much easier to work with.
Bob.
I know it says "clear coat safe" but not sure I would recommend this method unless it's a stubborn spot one has already tried remedying with less abrasive methods (like claying). Rubbing compounds remove clear coat/paint, whereas clay removes dirt/contaminants that are on top of the clear coat.
"Clear coat safe" may just mean that it only removes a tiny bit of clear coat, not that it won't remove any at all. So if you use this often in the same spots (or the whole car), over time you'll have probably have very little clear coat left.
Last edited by ArmchairArchitect; Aug 29, 2017 at 11:58 AM.
I was hesitant (paranoid) to do mine and after doing it (took much less time than I thought I couldn't be happier - I get comments all the time about the paint and I've won 5 trophies so far at local car shows since this spring - I went with Zaino and followed the instructions. Was much easier than I thought and the results are incredible IMHO.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
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