Hey, I'm getting conflicting specs. Is it 15 or 11 foot pounds of torque on a c5 2004 vert stock? Trying to plan ahead. Any advice on which spark plugs, wires, and torque wrench to buy is most appreciated. I would like to buy better wires that are better heat resistance, since #5 n #7 seem to get damaged from heat.

 

- OEM spark plug is AC Delco 41-110 Iridium, pre-gapped at .040
11 ft. lbs torque, and a small dab of anti-seize on the threads.

GM red plug wires are recommended. Dielectric grease can be used on the insulator portion of the plug to make the new plug wires easier to remove.

Decent torque wrench can be purchased at Sears (Craftsman)

There are excellent threads up in the sticky portion of this forum tab that describe plug removal and installation.

 

I have a friend who's father is a mechanic.
He says when his father lends out a torque wrench, he says,
"When you return it, if it's not on 0, you've bought it"
Is that right? Will it damage a torque wrench to not return it to 0 after your finished?

 

A click-type torque wrench presses a ball into a detent that’s held in place by a spring. The wrench is normally adjusted by twisting the handle on the wrench. Twisting it in compresses the spring and requires more torque to pop the ball out of the detent. This is how it measures torque.

But if the spring is stored with the wrench “loaded” or set for a high torque rating, the pressure on the spring can cause it to weaken over time. To protect the wrench it should always be returned to the lowest setting before storing it back into your toolbox. For big wrenches (measuring in ft-lbs increments) the lowest setting is usually 20 ft-lbs. If, for some reason, you have a click-type torque wrench that goes all the way down to zero, leave the wrench set to 10 or 20 pounds. You always want to keep a minimum amount of pressure on the spring so that the ball can’t fall all the way out of the detent.

For other styles of torque wrenches, this isn’t an issue. The newest digital torque wrenches use an electronic strain gauge to measure torque, so when the wrench is not in use the only thing you may need to do is remove the batteries so that there is no chance of corrosion ruining your expensive digital wrench.

Overall your mechanic friend is wrong to say if its not on zero you bought it.

 

Yes, I lent one out and he left it at 150ft/lbs now it's toast

 

Respectfully disagree. As you correctly pointed out, leaving the torque wrench on a high setting could weaken the spring. If the friend's father is willing to lend his torque wrench he should be able to caveat the condition in which he expects it to be returned. Will he really charge the borrower for the torque wrench if it's not on zero - probably not - but he probably won't lend it to the same person again. I think what he's really saying is "take care of things you borrow." I don't think any of us would disagree with that.

And to the OP, from my recollection, MAC5 is "spot on" with the 11 ft pds torque and the anti-seize.

By the way, I believe 15 ft pds is the correct torque for a new, never used aluminum head, then 11 ft pds thereafter.

 

Great, hope for the best.

 

Don't lend torque wrenches, instead offer to stop by with it when it's needed. I know, easy to say ... I don't lend multi meters either, same deal ... I know ... I'm an AHole. LoL

 

The link in the sticky in the forum about spark plugs is missing or deleted or I can't find it. Can anyone confirm?

 

spark plug torque is under ignition category. 11 ft/lbs (15 on new head)


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/...rquevalues.pdf

 

Bob, no your not an "AHole". A lot of people have that mentality of " it ain't mine so why should I care"
Gets even worse when you loan thing to family. I loaned my brother in law a power washer in perfect working order. Got in back in not so perfect working order. Squeeze the trigger and it doesn't throttle up and spray with pressure. It wasn't like that when I gave it to him.....


And Deneb, yes you should ALWAYS return the torque wrench back to it's zero setting after use.

 

Thanks. But the link is missing in this thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/1249213-one-of-the-best-threads-ever-posted-newbies-must-read.html

It says everything you need to know about spark plugs change is here, go... And it is blank.

 

That's because there is no link

 

I'll use YouTube, since this is useless.

 

I don't get it
What it is that you want to know about changing plugs ?
Pretty much straight forward as changing any other pulg with the exception of the #7 cylinder because of the Air Tube being in the way. Most guys will either remove the one or two 10mm bolts that hold the tube and drop the tube out of the way. Others will use a combo of swivels and an extension to access the plug.

 

Great, got it, thanks.