wicked disappointed
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 100
Likes: 6
From: Tucker GA
wicked disappointed
hey all,
Much to my extreme chagrin, after only a handful of times driving my 03 Z06, where it seemed to shift fine, it has become evident that the transmission will need a rebuild. This prognosis was preliminarily from my new amigo corvetteforum.com member Josh, and then subsequently Buyavette. It grinds into second and reverse pops out. 4th is a bit sketchy as well. I got an estimate of $2700, which will take me a few months to scrounge. That all being said, my question is- is it better to limp it around once a week to try to keep everything circulating or no? What is the best way to preserve the tires/batter/fuel stability when its going to sit for 2-3 months?
Much to my extreme chagrin, after only a handful of times driving my 03 Z06, where it seemed to shift fine, it has become evident that the transmission will need a rebuild. This prognosis was preliminarily from my new amigo corvetteforum.com member Josh, and then subsequently Buyavette. It grinds into second and reverse pops out. 4th is a bit sketchy as well. I got an estimate of $2700, which will take me a few months to scrounge. That all being said, my question is- is it better to limp it around once a week to try to keep everything circulating or no? What is the best way to preserve the tires/batter/fuel stability when its going to sit for 2-3 months?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 543
From: Appleton WI
Sorry to hear about the tranny.
For storage, I recommend the following
1) Full tank of gas (minimum) add fuel stabilizer (recommended)
2) Battery on a tender
3) Change oil (my preference)
4) Park on carpet squares (my preference)
5) Chock wheels and put tranny in neutral and parking brake off ( my preference).
6) Clean interior and exterior so when you're ready to drive the car again it looks ready too.
7) Place fabric softener dryer sheets in the interior and around battery / fuse box if worried about mice.
8) Maybe a container of Damp Rid inside the cabin if it will be humid.
9) Leave the car off until ready to drive again
10) Put note on dash reminding yourself there is a battery tender attached and wheels are chocked.
For storage, I recommend the following
1) Full tank of gas (minimum) add fuel stabilizer (recommended)
2) Battery on a tender
3) Change oil (my preference)
4) Park on carpet squares (my preference)
5) Chock wheels and put tranny in neutral and parking brake off ( my preference).
6) Clean interior and exterior so when you're ready to drive the car again it looks ready too.
7) Place fabric softener dryer sheets in the interior and around battery / fuse box if worried about mice.
8) Maybe a container of Damp Rid inside the cabin if it will be humid.
9) Leave the car off until ready to drive again
10) Put note on dash reminding yourself there is a battery tender attached and wheels are chocked.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 8,900
Likes: 1,074
From: Wisconsin
Sorry to hear about the tranny.
For storage, I recommend the following
1) Full tank of gas (minimum) add fuel stabilizer (recommended)
2) Battery on a tender
3) Change oil (my preference)
4) Park on carpet squares (my preference)
5) Chock wheels and put tranny in neutral and parking brake off ( my preference).
6) Clean interior and exterior so when you're ready to drive the car again it looks ready too.
7) Place fabric softener dryer sheets in the interior and around battery / fuse box if worried about mice.
8) Maybe a container of Damp Rid inside the cabin if it will be humid.
9) Leave the car off until ready to drive again
10) Put note on dash reminding yourself there is a battery tender attached and wheels are chocked.
For storage, I recommend the following
1) Full tank of gas (minimum) add fuel stabilizer (recommended)
2) Battery on a tender
3) Change oil (my preference)
4) Park on carpet squares (my preference)
5) Chock wheels and put tranny in neutral and parking brake off ( my preference).
6) Clean interior and exterior so when you're ready to drive the car again it looks ready too.
7) Place fabric softener dryer sheets in the interior and around battery / fuse box if worried about mice.
8) Maybe a container of Damp Rid inside the cabin if it will be humid.
9) Leave the car off until ready to drive again
10) Put note on dash reminding yourself there is a battery tender attached and wheels are chocked.
I take my battery out and store it in the basement on a tender. A battery can go bad at any time and a dead battery will freeze, possibly cracking the case.
I also use moth ***** in the cabin and engine compartment. Stinks for a day or two in the spring, but mice damage can get expensive.
And I shove some stainless steel pot scrubbers up the tail pipes to keep vermin out.
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Sorry to hear about the tranny.
For storage, I recommend the following
1) Full tank of gas (minimum) add fuel stabilizer (recommended)
2) Battery on a tender
3) Change oil (my preference)
4) Park on carpet squares (my preference)
5) Chock wheels and put tranny in neutral and parking brake off ( my preference).
6) Clean interior and exterior so when you're ready to drive the car again it looks ready too.
7) Place fabric softener dryer sheets in the interior and around battery / fuse box if worried about mice.
8) Maybe a container of Damp Rid inside the cabin if it will be humid.
9) Leave the car off until ready to drive again
10) Put note on dash reminding yourself there is a battery tender attached and wheels are chocked.
For storage, I recommend the following
1) Full tank of gas (minimum) add fuel stabilizer (recommended)
2) Battery on a tender
3) Change oil (my preference)
4) Park on carpet squares (my preference)
5) Chock wheels and put tranny in neutral and parking brake off ( my preference).
6) Clean interior and exterior so when you're ready to drive the car again it looks ready too.
7) Place fabric softener dryer sheets in the interior and around battery / fuse box if worried about mice.
8) Maybe a container of Damp Rid inside the cabin if it will be humid.
9) Leave the car off until ready to drive again
10) Put note on dash reminding yourself there is a battery tender attached and wheels are chocked.
Also, if you have a cover for the car, go ahead and place it on the car to keep the dust off the surface.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 219
From: West Branch, MI
hey all,
Much to my extreme chagrin, after only a handful of times driving my 03 Z06, where it seemed to shift fine, it has become evident that the transmission will need a rebuild. This prognosis was preliminarily from my new amigo corvetteforum.com member Josh, and then subsequently Buyavette. It grinds into second and reverse pops out. 4th is a bit sketchy as well. I got an estimate of $2700, which will take me a few months to scrounge. That all being said, my question is- is it better to limp it around once a week to try to keep everything circulating or no? What is the best way to preserve the tires/batter/fuel stability when its going to sit for 2-3 months?
Much to my extreme chagrin, after only a handful of times driving my 03 Z06, where it seemed to shift fine, it has become evident that the transmission will need a rebuild. This prognosis was preliminarily from my new amigo corvetteforum.com member Josh, and then subsequently Buyavette. It grinds into second and reverse pops out. 4th is a bit sketchy as well. I got an estimate of $2700, which will take me a few months to scrounge. That all being said, my question is- is it better to limp it around once a week to try to keep everything circulating or no? What is the best way to preserve the tires/batter/fuel stability when its going to sit for 2-3 months?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ems-fixed.html
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 345
Likes: 86
From: Goodlettsville Tennessee
I rebuilt mine in my 03 20Kmiles ago. If you wrench yourself, you could save yourself a lot of money.
I bought this kit:
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
and did the work myself. You will need a press to press the bearings on and off. Other than that removal was the most time consuming. Other than that, it wasn't hard. Go ahead and replace the clutch while you're in there.
I bought this kit:
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
and did the work myself. You will need a press to press the bearings on and off. Other than that removal was the most time consuming. Other than that, it wasn't hard. Go ahead and replace the clutch while you're in there.
Last edited by lane_viper; Oct 26, 2017 at 05:10 PM.
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 99
Likes: 18
From: Kirkland WA
hey all,
Much to my extreme chagrin, after only a handful of times driving my 03 Z06, where it seemed to shift fine, it has become evident that the transmission will need a rebuild. This prognosis was preliminarily from my new amigo corvetteforum.com member Josh, and then subsequently Buyavette. It grinds into second and reverse pops out. 4th is a bit sketchy as well. I got an estimate of $2700, which will take me a few months to scrounge. That all being said, my question is- is it better to limp it around once a week to try to keep everything circulating or no? What is the best way to preserve the tires/batter/fuel stability when its going to sit for 2-3 months?
Much to my extreme chagrin, after only a handful of times driving my 03 Z06, where it seemed to shift fine, it has become evident that the transmission will need a rebuild. This prognosis was preliminarily from my new amigo corvetteforum.com member Josh, and then subsequently Buyavette. It grinds into second and reverse pops out. 4th is a bit sketchy as well. I got an estimate of $2700, which will take me a few months to scrounge. That all being said, my question is- is it better to limp it around once a week to try to keep everything circulating or no? What is the best way to preserve the tires/batter/fuel stability when its going to sit for 2-3 months?
My shifter was slipping out of 1st, and grinding going into 4th. Take it for whats it's worth, but after I adjusted my shifter, and installed a new transmission mount all my grinding issue when away. It really made a night and day difference. Might be worth a shot?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 184
Likes: 22
What about purchasing a complete replacement and then maybe a kit to rebuild your own.
1999 -2004 Corvette T56 transmission,
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-transmission...nt=app_android
Price: $ 1,500
Something like this would allow you to continue driving your car, then while the transmission is out, you could take your time rebuilding it. Once complete, install it and sell the "temp" tranny for about the same as what you paid.
1999 -2004 Corvette T56 transmission,
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-transmission...nt=app_android
Price: $ 1,500
Something like this would allow you to continue driving your car, then while the transmission is out, you could take your time rebuilding it. Once complete, install it and sell the "temp" tranny for about the same as what you paid.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,685
Likes: 1,330
From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
I just finished my own rebuild on my Z, so when I heard the symptoms I knew right away it needed a rebuild.
To answer you question, you can still drive the car sparingly but know that each time the gear grinds as the collar is slipping into position (the syncro not doing its job) you're putting major wear at the engagement point between the gear and the collar/slider.
I had to replace my 2nd gear and collar and those parts alone cost me $710. I also replace all the bearings, syncros, pads and keys. $1400 total and that wasn't counting labor which was free.
Basic rebuilds don't always include bearings. I'd ask about that. Should add $200+ depending on brand.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 100
Likes: 6
From: Tucker GA
ehillard0 I am going to do the shifter adjustment, its worth a shot. Was that an EOM mount? I've read some stories of aftermarket/poly mounts creating a lot more NVH (obviously that's the case with any bushing/mount) and I'm not sure I want any additional NVH from my transmission...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 100
Likes: 6
From: Tucker GA
I'm starting to work at buyavette this Monday in the service dept.
I just finished my own rebuild on my Z, so when I heard the symptoms I knew right away it needed a rebuild.
To answer you question, you can still drive the car sparingly but know that each time the gear grinds as the collar is slipping into position (the syncro not doing its job) you're putting major wear at the engagement point between the gear and the collar/slider.
I had to replace my 2nd gear and collar and those parts alone cost me $710. I also replace all the bearings, syncros, pads and keys. $1400 total and that wasn't counting labor which was free.
Basic rebuilds don't always include bearings. I'd ask about that. Should add $200+ depending on brand.
I just finished my own rebuild on my Z, so when I heard the symptoms I knew right away it needed a rebuild.
To answer you question, you can still drive the car sparingly but know that each time the gear grinds as the collar is slipping into position (the syncro not doing its job) you're putting major wear at the engagement point between the gear and the collar/slider.
I had to replace my 2nd gear and collar and those parts alone cost me $710. I also replace all the bearings, syncros, pads and keys. $1400 total and that wasn't counting labor which was free.
Basic rebuilds don't always include bearings. I'd ask about that. Should add $200+ depending on brand.
Dang I may have spoken to you then! I called this morning to cancel my apt
I appreciate the info Josh. As the days go by the idea of doing it myself seems to get more and more attractive. I'll start to gather info and see if its something I can manage. I've read about the rebuild manual out there for these transmissions, is that guidance you'd recommend?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 100
Likes: 6
From: Tucker GA
What about purchasing a complete replacement and then maybe a kit to rebuild your own.
1999 -2004 Corvette T56 transmission,
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-transmission...nt=app_android
Price: $ 1,500
Something like this would allow you to continue driving your car, then while the transmission is out, you could take your time rebuilding it. Once complete, install it and sell the "temp" tranny for about the same as what you paid.
1999 -2004 Corvette T56 transmission,
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-transmission...nt=app_android
Price: $ 1,500
Something like this would allow you to continue driving your car, then while the transmission is out, you could take your time rebuilding it. Once complete, install it and sell the "temp" tranny for about the same as what you paid.
I appreciate the input Luffy, Its good to know all options.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 100
Likes: 6
From: Tucker GA
I rebuilt mine in my 03 20Kmiles ago. If you wrench yourself, you could save yourself a lot of money.
I bought this kit:
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
and did the work myself. You will need a press to press the bearings on and off. Other than that removal was the most time consuming. Other than that, it wasn't hard. Go ahead and replace the clutch while you're in there.
I bought this kit:
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
and did the work myself. You will need a press to press the bearings on and off. Other than that removal was the most time consuming. Other than that, it wasn't hard. Go ahead and replace the clutch while you're in there.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 100
Likes: 6
From: Tucker GA
I'm starting to work at buyavette this Monday in the service dept.
I just finished my own rebuild on my Z, so when I heard the symptoms I knew right away it needed a rebuild.
To answer you question, you can still drive the car sparingly but know that each time the gear grinds as the collar is slipping into position (the syncro not doing its job) you're putting major wear at the engagement point between the gear and the collar/slider.
I had to replace my 2nd gear and collar and those parts alone cost me $710. I also replace all the bearings, syncros, pads and keys. $1400 total and that wasn't counting labor which was free.
Basic rebuilds don't always include bearings. I'd ask about that. Should add $200+ depending on brand.
I just finished my own rebuild on my Z, so when I heard the symptoms I knew right away it needed a rebuild.
To answer you question, you can still drive the car sparingly but know that each time the gear grinds as the collar is slipping into position (the syncro not doing its job) you're putting major wear at the engagement point between the gear and the collar/slider.
I had to replace my 2nd gear and collar and those parts alone cost me $710. I also replace all the bearings, syncros, pads and keys. $1400 total and that wasn't counting labor which was free.
Basic rebuilds don't always include bearings. I'd ask about that. Should add $200+ depending on brand.
OH and congrats on the new gig man! sorry I didn't say that sooner.
I am probably in major denial and grasping at anything that could work
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 99
Likes: 18
From: Kirkland WA
ehillard0 I am going to do the shifter adjustment, its worth a shot. Was that an EOM mount? I've read some stories of aftermarket/poly mounts creating a lot more NVH (obviously that's the case with any bushing/mount) and I'm not sure I want any additional NVH from my transmission...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 6,480
Likes: 555
FWIW, I have been reading and hearing more about the trannies in the Zs as compared to the non-Z models. I'm assuming the two have different trannies, and I'm wondering why the Z tranny seems to be more trouble prone...
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,685
Likes: 1,330
From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
No, same gear box, different ratios are the only changes. The Z is used/enjoyed more aggressively (because even off the track they are snappier and more fun than a base C5, hard to resist) which in turn uses up synchros, etc...