Rob 02

It seems like wheel hop is the main enemy of the C5-C6 drive-line. If you are road racing then heat is.

Shaolin Crane

Main enemy yes, but the input shafts are a weak link for all forms of driving.

$550 for the Eaton with 300m input shafts is enough of a deal to warrant giving it a shot.

dbgoodwin

Y'all gotta stop making these non-z06 cars crazy fast.

I paid extra to make my car be faster than a lousy base or convertible, and I won't stand anyone taking that away from me.

Shaolin Crane

It's Z06ish

Rob 02

Don't feel bad.
It cost even more to convert a coupe.

Shaolin Crane

No fun updates unfortunately, got all the sensors I need to the tune of around ~$200 so no fun parts this week. Also ordered bearings and seals for the diff, will likely order the Eaton soon as that's the cheapest most sensible option currently. Then start sourcing transmission parts. I want to start the swap in January.

Mike94ZLT1

Pumba has a TR6070 in his C5. My TR6060 is at D&D Performance getting all the goodies installed right now, haven't decided where to send my C6Z diff.

Shaolin Crane

I've seen it done, I'm just not interested in doing it. This car will never make more than 550rwhp passing smog so there's no need for the extra expense.

Rob 02

There is HP and TQ that the engine makes then there is the applied torque that the drive-line sees.

Under lower acceleration rates there is very little applied torque felt on the drive-line no matter how much HP you are making.
On a hard launch all of the torque might be felt.

Shaolin Crane

Sure, but I don't drag race. All of this car's usage will be street and road course. Even then under 600rwhp these parts will hold up just fine. Proper trans mount, diff brace, a real carrier, and proper driving technique will hold up for the life of the car. I'll leave the factory half shafts as the drivetrain fuse.

Rob 02

I am building mine in lieu of getting a new $20,000 $hit box.
That is where I set my spending limit.
When I get finished soon I want it to be reliable and well redesigned.
Newer cars in this price range don't excite me a bit.
C5's are an excellent resto-mod project IMO because it doesn't take much to bring them up to date if you have skills.

Shaolin Crane

Mine was purely cost to use. I wanted a C6z but I knew I would have to pull the heads and they're still otherwise mechanically identical, this way I saved 20k over the cost of this car. They both still go vroom around a road course.

I have yet to break the $6k mark on the swap, I also performed nearly all work myself save for balancing the rotating assembly. So I save a **** ton over writing a check to get things done. Complete cost goal is to stay under $8k all said and tuned.

Rob 02

I'm not good at gear boxes.
If I lived nearer to you I would buy some of your parts if you would build mine.
I'm probably getting an RPM rig.

Shaolin Crane

I'm good, but even then I'll still have my usual trans guy do the box, he gives me his dealer cost on parts and a flat labor rate on transmissions I've already removed, so cost usually comes out to be the same, but I get a specially assembled transmission with his years of racing and building knowledge. The diff is basically just a carrier swap and since he does on average 37 transmissions a week I don't like to take up shop time on stuff I can do.

Rob 02

If you get the drive-line, engine and tune just right and save money doing it, then you can bring the rest of it up to date.
I think it is a good platform to work from.

When I was in the market for a street car, I was originally looking at a LS trans am. I made an auction bid on the Vette and glad I did.

Enjoy!

Shaolin Crane

I already did the other stuff 2din navigation, stereo, custom seats, brakes, etc. Time to make is go fast.

Shaolin Crane

Another member was kind enough to give me an 01 torque tube out of his 01Z, so now I have all the core parts and can start rebuilding everything.

Anyone have ideas on what my near rolling driveline is worth? I'm going to buy a cheap engine cradle to bolt the engine to and make the swap day easier. I'm thinking $3k for all of what comes out is fair, opinions?

cb2004mj

rolling being rear cradle, trans, diff, axles, tq tube, and motor? if so then id say 3k is the low side and what to expect if your looking for a quick sale. side note....to the conversation previous about couplers, best friend ran aluminum couplers both front and rear for 2 years and beat the crap out of it regularly without issue. ive been running both aluminum for 2 months now and my car is just a play toy/drag car and shes holding up great.

dbgoodwin

I would think $3k is on the lower end honestly. I feel like i've seen complete rolling drivelines go for double that with all good parts.

Shaolin Crane

That's what I figured, as long as I have a diff brace and hardened input shafts it should be no different than any other car
They're goodish. Trans pops out of reverse and first, torque tube makes some funny noises and everything has almost 150k on it. However the motor is still strong, makes 40psi of oil pressure at idle and none of the covers leak.