[Z06] Need a new clutch
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 51
Need a new clutch
My car is cammed, intake and exhaust. My clutch is having the pedal issues. I also feel the clutch slipping when I floor it in 3rd.
What clutch and supporting mods? Anyone have a list of needed parts to do the job PROPERLY?
should I go for a tranny brace while im at it?
Remote bleeder for sure.
Any suggestions?
Thanks guys!
What clutch and supporting mods? Anyone have a list of needed parts to do the job PROPERLY?
should I go for a tranny brace while im at it?
Remote bleeder for sure.
Any suggestions?
Thanks guys!
Racer
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 34
From: Forest Hills, New York
My car is cammed, intake and exhaust. My clutch is having the pedal issues. I also feel the clutch slipping when I floor it in 3rd.
What clutch and supporting mods? Anyone have a list of needed parts to do the job PROPERLY?
should I go for a tranny brace while im at it?
Remote bleeder for sure.
Any suggestions?
Thanks guys!
What clutch and supporting mods? Anyone have a list of needed parts to do the job PROPERLY?
should I go for a tranny brace while im at it?
Remote bleeder for sure.
Any suggestions?
Thanks guys!
Last edited by RomanNYC; Nov 13, 2017 at 01:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 51
What made you go with mantic? Any pros and cons vs Mcleod, textralia?
I read the Tick slave is.no.good...in the pics it seems to be made by Tilon. From what I know Tilon made crazy clutches for supras a decade ago...
I read the Tick slave is.no.good...in the pics it seems to be made by Tilon. From what I know Tilon made crazy clutches for supras a decade ago...
Racer
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 34
From: Forest Hills, New York
My issue was that i would miss third gear at WOT and came to the point where i started my car up one morning and it didn't get into gear.
Mantic , textralia and mcleod are all good clutches but with the mcleod and textralia it was a hit or miss for some people. After doing a bit of reading i was confident with mantic. the shop i go to (eastcoastsupercharging) say great things about Mantic and its there choice of clutch. so for me it was a no brainer.
Last edited by RomanNYC; Nov 15, 2017 at 12:59 PM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 34
From: Forest Hills, New York
i believe chris told me my clutch which is the street er2 is good till 500 whp, but send them an email they are mantic disturbers as well.
remote bleeder: http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.co...tegory_id=1385
Very very happy with the clutch, i live in NYC so im at light to light most of the times and it feels great.
Last edited by RomanNYC; Nov 15, 2017 at 01:23 PM.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 699
Likes: 18
From: Haslet Texas
Check out our current Holiday sale.
http://monsterclutches.com/c5-corvet...reet-c5-clutch
Give us a shout if you have any questions.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 239
From: Missi'ppi... no mo' MO for me!!
"clutch and supporting mods" and "650-700 ish hp"...
You don't say how many miles are on the car, but at ~100,000 miles the OEM recommendation is that the torque tube bushings should be changed and the TT bearings inspected. Even if you're not at/near 100,000, if they're original (rubber) bushings, it's prolly cheaper to replacee them now than have to pay the labor to do it later.
Dunno if your HP wishlist is HP or RWHP, but at the least the 650 would translate to ~530rwhp, and for that you'll need to beef the half shafts and maybe you'd be better set up with the tranny and diff braces you mentioned. (mind you, the suggestions in this paragraph are strictly my own wild-ased guess--just bench knowledge from all I've read, not personal experience--I know that I considered these last mods when I was trying to calculate the costs of increasing rwhp to >450rwhp) TT bushings at a minimum; of course, add the slave, throw-out and pilot.
You don't say how many miles are on the car, but at ~100,000 miles the OEM recommendation is that the torque tube bushings should be changed and the TT bearings inspected. Even if you're not at/near 100,000, if they're original (rubber) bushings, it's prolly cheaper to replacee them now than have to pay the labor to do it later.
Dunno if your HP wishlist is HP or RWHP, but at the least the 650 would translate to ~530rwhp, and for that you'll need to beef the half shafts and maybe you'd be better set up with the tranny and diff braces you mentioned. (mind you, the suggestions in this paragraph are strictly my own wild-ased guess--just bench knowledge from all I've read, not personal experience--I know that I considered these last mods when I was trying to calculate the costs of increasing rwhp to >450rwhp) TT bushings at a minimum; of course, add the slave, throw-out and pilot.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 239
From: Missi'ppi... no mo' MO for me!!
"bearings"-- the throw-out bearing and pilot, yes, but the TT bearings prolly only need an inspection. At ~85,000 my TT bearings were fine; my clutch at 85,000 and I replaced the TT bushings because they only cost ~$200 for the parts (if I remember). It turned out that one of them was absolutely fine, but the other crumbled in my hands from only finger-strength twisting though it visually looked like it was new-off-the-shelf. I dunno how it held up and looked so good when I could twist off pieces of rubber; prolly because the direction I was twisting wasn't "lateral" to the "grain" of the rubber.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,080
Likes: 565
From: Allen TX
Lots of good suggestions here. I like the Centerforce DYAD clutch. I have a twin-turbo car that puts out a conservative 650+rwhp/620+rwtq and has for 13.5 years. I've had this clutch for 4... I don't put a ton of miles on the car, but it is a very streetable clutch, with good holding power at my power level.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 699
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From: Haslet Texas