[Z06] How low is too low miles?
Jump on it.
Of course have it checked by some one that lives close by that has been a C/5 Z forum member for awhile.
As old as the car is, it is still one of the best bang for the bucks car out there.
Personally, I'd only buy it if it were driven regularly. If it sat for sure, then the price comes down absolutely. There is a price to be paid for essentially a new car, but a car that sits develops demons almost always unless the conditions in which it was stored were VERY good.
When the discussion of ultra low mileage cars starts, there are those who will tell you how they all have problems and a well maintained driven car is much better. Total BS! As a dealer and lifetime enthusiast, I have purchased dozens of very low mileage cars both for personal use and for resale. I have had far fewer problems with the low mileage cars than other used vehicles and they are obviously far more satisfying vehicles because of their like new qualities.
The car you describe would be a hard one to pass up. Reading this forum for the past year, there have been several low mileage cars reported purchased and I can remember no instances of problems other than the normal tire and fluid changes. Replacing the valve springs should also b considered for extra insurance.
1: I knew I wanted to drive it, and having a museum piece mileage car would have discouraged that. I've put 12000 miles a year on the car on average, including a year where I didn't drive to work a single time and just rode my bike instead. Putting miles on a 50000 mile car is easier for me than putting miles on a 1000 mile car.
2: a lot of the issues that arise on these cars are not mileage specific. Many low mileage vehicles often suffer from the same problems as high mileage cars here on this forum. Age and lack of maintainence cause more issues than well maintained miles.
Do you really think that someone who has driven the car 100 miles a year has continued to flush the coolant, change the oil, change belts, change valve springs, bleed the brakes, bleed the clutch, change the transmission fluid, and change the diff fluid?
Probably not, I would guess most of those things are original.
Steve
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Edit; hit post too soon. The other / biggest concern would be bushings. As it sat for so long, I'd be a bit concerned.
Last edited by grantv; Nov 26, 2017 at 08:55 PM.
Last edited by apex26; Nov 28, 2017 at 06:04 PM.
When the discussion of ultra low mileage cars starts, there are those who will tell you how they all have problems and a well maintained driven car is much better. Total BS! As a dealer and lifetime enthusiast, I have purchased dozens of very low mileage cars both for personal use and for resale. I have had far fewer problems with the low mileage cars than other used vehicles and they are obviously far more satisfying vehicles because of their like new qualities.
The car you describe would be a hard one to pass up. Reading this forum for the past year, there have been several low mileage cars reported purchased and I can remember no instances of problems other than the normal tire and fluid changes. Replacing the valve springs should also b considered for extra insurance.
It may have low miles, but every piece of rubber and plastic on the car will still be 10-15 years old.
tires, hoses, belts, seals, clips, plugs, engine gaskets, diff seals etc
unless the car was professionally maintained (and I don't mean changing the oil once a year), you're going to want to go through it very thoroughly and replace every maintenance item you can find.
Even things like spring loaded belt tensioners, think about a spring being stretched for 15 years. Will it hold the same tension?
all that said, buy the car, do the maintenance, and enjoy being able to drive a z06 with 1500 miles in 2017
When the discussion of ultra low mileage cars starts, there are those who will tell you how they all have problems and a well maintained driven car is much better. Total BS! As a dealer and lifetime enthusiast, I have purchased dozens of very low mileage cars both for personal use and for resale. I have had far fewer problems with the low mileage cars than other used vehicles and they are obviously far more satisfying vehicles because of their like new qualities.
The car you describe would be a hard one to pass up. Reading this forum for the past year, there have been several low mileage cars reported purchased and I can remember no instances of problems other than the normal tire and fluid changes. Replacing the valve springs should also b considered for extra insurance.
I get to break it in.
Rubber and gremlins don't worry me.
Nice paint
and a seat my butt gets to form 😎
all good. Plus all the info from years of owners
Use gets me head of the game on what problems to
Look for and what to do to fix.





If you're buying it as a museum piece or a "collector piece,' then maybe. It's going to get a high price in that market. What I'm saying is, if you plant to drive it another 1500 miles in the next 15 years, it might work for you.
If you plan to double the mileage on the odometer in a year or less, you're buying the wrong car.
I haven't dealt as much with Corvettes, but my experience is with European cars, a lot of Mercedes Benz, Audi, some Volvo, the occasional Porsche and a few more exotic Euro cars. Also, I work on drivers (at least occasional drivers, if not daily drivers) that are likely to continue at or near that mileage per year. I don't work on museum pieces. With those cars, the threshold seems to be around 6,000 mile/year, unless it is a one owner, garaged in the winter "summer car" like a MB SL Roadster (some Corvettes definitely fit in this category as well), then maybe down to 3,000-4,000 miles/year. I don't think I've seen any car under those thresholds that wasn't already "totaled" by neglect and decay. What I mean is the bill for "catching up" on maintenance, plus repairing/replacing things that have been damaged by the neglect or just decayed beyond useful service, the total bill to get them roadworthy and reliable exceeds the value of the car. I seriously doubt Chevies, even Corvettes, are much different.
The short and easy answer is this. If you plan to drive the car you're buying 6,000 miles a year, look for one that's been driven 6,000 miles a year for most of its life. If you're planning on driving 15,000 miles a year, look for something in that range. If you're looking for a museum piece you'll only drive 100 miles or less a year, look for one that's already in that range. You can buy a little lower mileage or a little higher, and adjust your price point, but you can expect big issues if you radically change the driving pattern of the car.
Last edited by C6_Racer_X; Dec 10, 2017 at 07:25 PM.
If you're buying it as a museum piece or a "collector piece,' then maybe. It's going to get a high price in that market. What I'm saying is, if you plant to drive it another 1500 miles in the next 15 years, it might work for you.
If you plan to double the mileage on the odometer in a year or less, you're buying the wrong car.
I haven't dealt as much with Corvettes, but my experience is with European cars, a lot of Mercedes Benz, Audi, some Volvo, the occasional Porsche and a few more exotic Euro cars. Also, I work on drivers (at least occasional drivers, if not daily drivers) that are likely to continue at or near that mileage per year. I don't work on museum pieces. With those cars, the threshold seems to be around 6,000 mile/year, unless it is a one owner, garaged in the winter "summer car" like a MB SL Roadster (some Corvettes definitely fit in this category as well), then maybe down to 3,000-4,000 miles/year. I don't think I've seen any car under those thresholds that wasn't already "totaled" by neglect and decay. What I mean is the bill for "catching up" on maintenance, plus repairing/replacing things that have been damaged by the neglect or just decayed beyond useful service, the total bill to get them roadworthy and reliable exceeds the value of the car. I seriously doubt Chevies, even Corvettes, are much different.
The short and easy answer is this. If you plan to drive the car you're buying 6,000 miles a year, look for one that's been driven 6,000 miles a year for most of its life. If you're planning on driving 15,000 miles a year, look for something in that range. If you're looking for a museum piece you'll only drive 100 miles or less a year, look for one that's already in that range. You can buy a little lower mileage or a little higher, and adjust your price point, but you can expect big issues if you radically change the driving pattern of the car.
Like any other used car you purchase without an extensive service history, you should do a thorough inspection, change all the fluids, address the known historical problems attached to that particular model, and change the tires if out of date. Then, you should give thanks you can find and afford such a great vehicle and begin to enjoy it. Everything else is something somebody made up!

















