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I am partial to Wilwood 570, Wilwood 600 EXP, Ferodo Super Formula Racing Fluid and if you aren't going to be pushing the brakes too hard good old Ford Brake Fluid. It used to be rated at 550 degree dry boiling point but Ford dropped that down to 500 degrees about 10 years ago. Castol SRF is good but very expensive. It has a so so dry boiling point compared to some fluids but an excellent wet boiling point. Problem is if you are like me you will want a high dry boiling point fluid in the system every time you go to the track which means dumping all of the expensive SRF down the drain.
Motul 600 bake fluid (for both brakes and clutch), Mobil 1, weight to climate (I'v always stayed with the 5/30) heaver grades ad flow friction. That is if you are running a stock LS6. Also consider diff & trans fluid. Royal Purple, Redline, your choice.
For oil, Mobil 1, either 5W30 or 10W30 will work. I like 10W30 for track days in hot weather in any LSx vehicle I work with.
For brake fluid, will you be changing it out frequently? Every few months/few events? Or will you be leaving it in up to 2 years? Or longer? That makes a huge difference in the recommendation.
Last edited by C6_Racer_X; Jan 20, 2018 at 10:51 AM.
For oil, Mobil 1, either 5W30 or 10W30 will work. I like 10W30 for track days in hot weather in any LSx vehicle I work with.
For brake fluid, will you be changing it out frequently? Every few months/few events? Or will you be leaving it in up to 2 years? Or longer? That makes a huge difference in the recommendation.
I use DOT 3 for daily drive time. Change it out for each track event to DOT 4. Have used Ate 200 in the past. It use to be that they made it in Amber and Blue, so was easy to see when you had flushed the old fluid out.
I use Pentosin Super DOT4. Not the low viscosity stuff. For oil Amsoil
ZRod 10-30 which has a high ZDDP level for wear protection. Seems to keep oil pressure higher than M1.clutch fluid is Wilwood 600.
I use DOT 3 for daily drive time. Change it out for each track event to DOT 4. Have used Ate 200 in the past. It use to be that they made it in Amber and Blue, so was easy to see when you had flushed the old fluid out.
ATE Super Blue and ATE 200 are basically the same fluid. Super Blue has a blue dye, and ATE is undyed (clear/amber).
If you're flushing the system out several times a year (for each track event), there's no reason to put DOT3 back in the thing. The factory recommendation for DOT3 has more to do with the "wet" boiling point than anything else. DOT4 specs a higher dry boiling point, but the same or lower wet boiling point, and the wet boiling point is the critical thing if you're not changing the fluid out every year or two.
If I was running a dual use (driver/track day) car, I'd just run the ATE fluids, and do a flush before every track event (or even every other track event if they are close together on the calendar). The only reason I'd flush after a track event is if I had a brake issue and the fluid boiled in the calipers. At that point, I'd immediately flush again to get the overheated fluid out of the system.
I don't like the ATE blue anymore because it stains the reservoir. I've been using Castrol SRF in the brakes and clutch for years. I don't do a full bleed after track days, I just crack the bleeder and push the pistons all the way back when I put the street pads back in. Basically just replaces the fluid in the calipers each track day. Works for me and doesn't waste too much of the expensive SRF. I also changed out my power steering fluid for RedLine power steering fluid as the stock stuff was getting too hot and blowing past the cap.