Maintenance schedule - miles or years?
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Maintenance schedule - miles or years?
This past summer I bought a 02 coupe w/manual transmission and it had only 25K on the odometer. For a variety of reasons I suspect it sat for a very long period of time. I've had to replace the wiper motor because debris clogged up the cowls, the passenger side fuel gauge went bad (probably due to oxidation in an empty passenger side tank) and a few other tidbits.
What concerns me now is if the spark plugs, plug wires, brake fluid, coolant, etc. should be changed just because of age and not miles. I've already done an oil change so that's taken care of.
Thoughts? Are there any other maintenance concerns I should address due to age?
What concerns me now is if the spark plugs, plug wires, brake fluid, coolant, etc. should be changed just because of age and not miles. I've already done an oil change so that's taken care of.
Thoughts? Are there any other maintenance concerns I should address due to age?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Long Island New York
I would do all fluids, inspect brake lines (rubber) and clean out the udders on both pass & drivers side, the obvious is to check tires for dry rot and consider replacing the gas filter.
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The rubber is good, all around, damn near new. And the rear tires are even newer because I caught a drywall screw in the sidewall!
Goodyear Eagle EMT's are damn expensive! I bet they only had 6K on them. The guy at the tire shop wanted to know why I was replacing the tire (he didn't realize there was a screw in the sidewall).
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Melting Slicks
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From: The beautiful Alabama Gulf Coast!!
That’s what I did when I bought my ‘02 Coupe 7 years ago. Important to have a baseline for miles/time for any future maintenance.
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You can pull a spark plug and see how it looks, but I'd bet it is OK. I would change all the fluids just to have a good starting point in your ownership of the car. The coolant in particular has a mileage/time requirement for replacement. Belts and hose should be inspected and replaced if any signs of deterioration or wear is present. Check your air filter too.
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You can pull a spark plug and see how it looks, but I'd bet it is OK. I would change all the fluids just to have a good starting point in your ownership of the car. The coolant in particular has a mileage/time requirement for replacement. Belts and hose should be inspected and replaced if any signs of deterioration or wear is present. Check your air filter too.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Long Island New York
It is hard to do everything in one week, unless you are retired and have endless money.
Try to have a plan where you can do a little at a time within 6 to 8 months, the most important stuff being first.
I did a lot myself within this first year of owning a 99 with 58k on it, biggest job was the Harmonic Balancer (we got to know each other)
Try to have a plan where you can do a little at a time within 6 to 8 months, the most important stuff being first.
I did a lot myself within this first year of owning a 99 with 58k on it, biggest job was the Harmonic Balancer (we got to know each other)
Last edited by pjdbm; Jan 30, 2018 at 09:24 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Peters Colony Republic of Texas
New car to you? Set a benchmark.
In 2010 I bought a 2002 coupe that had 2,900 miles on it. I drove it home and next morning took it to the local Chevy dealership. I instructed them to change every belt, hose and all fluids. Why? I didn't know the history of the car. An 8-year-old car with that few miles might have special issues (like gasket leaks, dry rot in hoses, etc.) which could come from long periods sitting idle in a garage.
Eight years later, that car now has 36,000 miles on the clock and is bullet-proof.
Knowing, at the time I first bought it, that the oil, radiator, transmission and differential fluids were fresh and that the belt and hoses were new was not only a great comfort, but also gave me a starting point (both the date and the mileage) for future maintenance.
The Lizzard
Eight years later, that car now has 36,000 miles on the clock and is bullet-proof.
Knowing, at the time I first bought it, that the oil, radiator, transmission and differential fluids were fresh and that the belt and hoses were new was not only a great comfort, but also gave me a starting point (both the date and the mileage) for future maintenance.
The Lizzard
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Kansas
I've had my 2003 A/E for 15 years, and just had all the trans, rear end, radiator flush, power steering and brake fluids changed, belts, hoses changed and cleaned throttle control with only 40,000 miles. Also from experience, activate your ABS system, I had to repair the ABS pump and ECBM due to non use and it froze up the pump and shorted out the ECBM. Everything is good to go now until the next 50,000 miles and I feel runs a lot smoother.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Somewhere in the middle of Kansas
[QUOTE=DCrooke;1596480164]Udders were drained and cleared when I replaced the wiper motor assembly. Gas filter is a good thought. Thanks.
The rubber is good, all around, damn near new. And the rear tires are even newer because I caught a drywall screw in the sidewall!
Goodyear Eagle EMT's are damn expensive! I bet they only had 6K on them. The guy at the tire shop wanted to know why I was replacing the tire (he didn't realize there was a screw in the sidewall).
Did you check date codes on any tires still on the car when you bought it? It doesn't matter if the tread is new if a tire is 5 year old or older, they still need to be replaced for safety reasons.
The rubber is good, all around, damn near new. And the rear tires are even newer because I caught a drywall screw in the sidewall!
Goodyear Eagle EMT's are damn expensive! I bet they only had 6K on them. The guy at the tire shop wanted to know why I was replacing the tire (he didn't realize there was a screw in the sidewall).
Did you check date codes on any tires still on the car when you bought it? It doesn't matter if the tread is new if a tire is 5 year old or older, they still need to be replaced for safety reasons.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 340
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From: Royal Oak Michigan
I've owned my 1999 coupe since 2003: it was a daily driver from 2003-2014 and is now a weekend car. For what it is worth, my maintenance schedule has been:
Air Filter - mileage based
Oil & filter: following oil life monitor OR every 2 years, whichever comes first
Manual Transmission Fluid, Diff fluids, Fuel Filter: every 40k miles
Coolant: every 5 years
Belts: as required (visually check them every few months)
Coolant hoses: replaced with the water pump at 90k miles (15 years old)
Brake Fluid: Every 5 years or right before a track/autocross event, whichever comes first
Brake hoses: replaced at 19 years
Power steering fluid: Every 10 years
My car defines reliable. It has been a great machine!
Air Filter - mileage based
Oil & filter: following oil life monitor OR every 2 years, whichever comes first
Manual Transmission Fluid, Diff fluids, Fuel Filter: every 40k miles
Coolant: every 5 years
Belts: as required (visually check them every few months)
Coolant hoses: replaced with the water pump at 90k miles (15 years old)
Brake Fluid: Every 5 years or right before a track/autocross event, whichever comes first
Brake hoses: replaced at 19 years
Power steering fluid: Every 10 years
My car defines reliable. It has been a great machine!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
The C5 platform is going on and over 20 years now. Hoses get brittle, fluid gets burnt, regardless of miles changing fluid, hoses, and other points of failure should be done! For example, after doing upgrades to my engine a vacuum leak affected tuning, and the culprit turned out to be the PCV hose connected to the rear end of the valve covers. They literally crumbled when attempting to remove. Granted my car sees a lot of high temps from being on track, but in any case it still stands to do preventative maintenance for piece of mind...my 2 cents
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 5,431
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Replace any and ALL fluids along with spark plugs and wires. Then inspect rubber hoses/connectors/vacuum lines. Simple as a proper tune up to know what the car has in it since YOU did it.