LoneStarLizzard

Well, my fitment included measurements followed by trial and error placement of the brackets, all prior to drilling new holes. I erred on the side of letting the H/U slide too deeply in the cavity, then used the 2-sided (3M) tape to bring the H/U back to where it fit snugly into the bezel. Used the same approach on the top to bottom fitment of the brackets.

The Lizzard

LoneStarLizzard

You can certainly mount the amp on the rear panel if you wish. I chose to place it behind the passenger seat. Why? Because I wanted to minimize the length of the power cable and the cables connecting the head unit to the amp. Regardless where you mount your amp, stringing the power and connecting cables requires careful placement. Routing speaker wire (as well as the head unit-to-amp cabling) too close to the power cable could induce unwanted electrical current into the speaker wires, which in turn could create signal distortion that could be heard through the speakers. I segregated the power cable and connecting cables from each other and the speaker wiring just to be sure. [It would be sad to spend all the time and money installing a new system only to have improperly located cabling screw up what otherwise might be a very god sound system.]

I attached my mini-amp following the method used by Patches in his post on this topic:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-overhaul.html


I believe Patches placed his cross-overs by the amp for ease of tuning. I didn't do that, but instead placed mine under the dash. I can still get to them and tune the system should I ever want to (although the cross-overs are passive devices and, once tuned, should not likely require subsequent tweeking.)

I bought and installed a Kenwood XR900 900 watt, 5 channel mini-amp...very light weight. [More technologically advanced mini-amps can be had now...I bought mine in April 2013.] I fabricated a cover for the mini-amp - mainly to hide the power cable and all of the speaker wiring - using a counter top dish drain pad I bought from Walmart (black to match the carpet). I cut a square opening just larger than the amp (for cooling purposes) and then stitched piping around the edges of the cut to hide the messy frayed materials. The mini-amp hasn't once overheated so I guess my "fix" was adequate.

The Lizzard

OleStraightStick

I wanna thank everybody for the awesome responses.. so far I’ve been working on disassembly.. got the console, bezel, h/u, hvac, door sill panels, and all the carpet and panels removed from aft of the seats.. gonna pull the door panels next

red03vette

i'm in to see the results, if you have time can you include some pics please. i really would like to upgrade my audio system some time in the near future, i already have some equipment from a few previous installs.
i was also considering one of those Kenwood 5 channel excelon amps, so small and light plus tons of power.

OleStraightStick

Just been working on it here and there when I get the time.. got most of what I plan on insulating with the butyl completed.. that stuff sure does stick good.. once ya peel the paper backing off it’s like a tar adhesive lol

Georgies

Hes a write up i did when i did mine. I went with ensolite and raamat from ram.audio. i have to say my system sounds fantastic. And its very docile in the cockpit.

Hope this helps

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...o-upgrade.html

OleStraightStick

Ok so I have another question.. I’m in the process of re-wiring and can’t seem to find many good detailed instructions online on how to tap into the accessory & reverse wires, etc.. all the write-ups seem to rush past that portion of the install (or have in-accessible photobucket pics included).. do I need a separate gm harness to connect to an aftermarket receiver even if I’m signaling all the speakers through RCA’s? Isn’t there a dimmer connection that needs to be made? Might be some silly questions but I definitely appreciate everyone’s input!

Shaolin Crane

There is no dimmer feed, power signal comes from the purple wire in the passenger footwell if I recall correctly. If you're wiring a reverse camera the easiest way is to tap into the reverse feed right at the light, since it will be next to the camera, and run the cable along with camera feed.

Awkwardcrane

In the passenger side footwell to the left of the, forgot what that box is called, electrical box in footwell, there are three wires taped together that don’t go to anything. One is always hot, one is on with the key, and one is ground. I also ran an extra wire to the rear of the car and spliced into the backup light for the reverse wire. I have my HU in place and all wired, waiting for the bezel to do the final fitment.

jrprich

Most use an aftermarket harness to mate the new unit to the existing wiring,


or

OleStraightStick

Thanks y’all.. jrprich, those harnesses are for connecting an aftermarket stereo with the factory Bose speakers.. I’m re-wiring everything so those won’t work..

So I reckon I won’t need any harness at all? I need’a get the new h/u out and see what it comes with & how the inputs/outputs are the rear are configured.. I just know for sure it has 3 rca channel outputs

Shaolin Crane

There's a basic GM harness adapter to buy from metra that's about $6, you'll wire your signal feed into the backnof the so you can plug your head unit harness into it.

OleStraightStick

That’s what I was thinkin’.. do you by any chance have a link to one? Once again, I really appreciate it

Shaolin Crane

I don't, none of them had the corvette listed as compatible so I went to Best Buy and bought all the ones they had and can't remember what I used before I took the rest back.

OleStraightStick

Lol well crap, the closest Best-Buy is in another city, about 45 mins away.. hopefully somebody can chime in with an Amazon link or a part number so I can order one

OleStraightStick

Got most of it completed.. can’t believe how good it sounds

Crosis

I want music. An exhaust note does nothing for driving pleasure.

joezr2

Looks great!

You noted the use of the butyle rope. I just wanted to mention for anoyone's future reference- a product called Mortite works well also. It's a window/door sealant you can find at a hardware store. It's light gray, comes in a roll, and individual strands can be pulled off. It has the consistency a little less stiff than modeling clay. Easy to form and not messy at all.

I used a bead of that between every metal/plastic/speaker surface I could.

EVLGTO

I went against my original idea and also decided to dump the whole Bose system. I went with a new Kenwood headunit, a Memphis Mono D block sub amp, a Kicker 4ch amp, infinity 2 way 6.5 door speakers and a Skar 12" sub. I won't be running the rear 5.25" speakers.

OleStraightStick

Nice! Ya installed it yet? Gonna sound good!