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Harbor Freight Low Profile Floor Jack (vs Craftsman)

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Old 04-18-2018, 12:12 PM
  #21  
bobs77vet
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Originally Posted by johnson-rod
I use a 2 ton Craftsman jack. It's so old it was made before China.
I think the 2 ton means it weighs 2 tons.
It is so tall I have to drive up on ramps to get it under the frame.
Maybe it's time for a HF.
I have that same one......It was birthday gift 40 years ago.....

that's why I bought the smaller 1.5 ton one its so light its amazing
Old 04-18-2018, 12:32 PM
  #22  
unlvrebel
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Originally Posted by smagray04
Curb weight of a C5 is 3,250 lbs. Is the 3-ton the way to go or is the HF 1.5 ton sufficient for lifting one side or one end of a C5? I know the safety margin is more with the 3-ton, but the thing weighs over 70 lbs. Opinions, please.
1.5 ton works just fine. You aren't lifting the entire curb weight.
Old 04-18-2018, 12:36 PM
  #23  
knewblewkorvette
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Since my C5s are lowered so I too purchased the HF low profile jack years ago. It fits, barely, but does the job.
Old 04-18-2018, 12:54 PM
  #24  
mark4cam
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My old Craftsman jack finally wore out, and it was too tall anyway. I used to have a HF aluminum low profile jack until a neighbor tried to lift an Explorer with it and bent the frame. So I needed something quickly. Believe it or not, I went down to Walmart and picked up a decent low profile jack that works well enough for 50 bucks. One of these days I'll make the longer trip to HF and pick up a better jack, good to know it works well.
Old 04-18-2018, 01:04 PM
  #25  
smagray04
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Originally Posted by Velocity_Vette
I have the 3 ton Pittsburgh jack from HF and it's a really good jack - one of the better tools I've bought from HF. One thing I like about it is even though it doesn't come with accessories the jack head is easily removable and you can place all sorts of things on there to help with jacking up most anything. I have home-made jacking pucks "keyed" to fit both into the hole of the jack and the frame jack points on the C5. I also have a home made jig I can bolt to the jack to lift the rear in the middle.
How did you make your jig? I want to do that too. I have seen a 2x10 with flat 1/8" steel plate glued to it, the width of the subframe.
Old 04-18-2018, 01:38 PM
  #26  
FrankLP
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I've have one of HF's aluminium 1.5 ton jacks for several years now... still working great! And... I just noticed that the same jack is on sale right now at HF for $59!

Looks like it's time to pick up another one!
Old 04-18-2018, 01:57 PM
  #27  
tred99
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Are the 2 harbor freight Jack's that are being discussed the same size? I want one that will jack up the front without having to drive up ramps or pieces of wood. I am getting to old to move around a heavy jack.
Old 04-18-2018, 02:25 PM
  #28  
Velocity_Vette
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Originally Posted by smagray04
How did you make your jig? I want to do that too. I have seen a 2x10 with flat 1/8" steel plate glued to it, the width of the subframe.
I don't have the exact dimension of what I did on hand but I want to say it's a 2x6 thickness at yeah around 10" or so, with a 2x4 piece up front to act as an L notch against the subframe when lifting. It doesn't have to be anything super fancy you just need something that doesn't apply all the pressure (ideally...) of the jack directly into one point of the subframe.

Originally Posted by tred99
Are the 2 harbor freight Jack's that are being discussed the same size? I want one that will jack up the front without having to drive up ramps or pieces of wood. I am getting to old to move around a heavy jack.
There are two styles that you will find at HF; a "normal" style floor jack that still have a relatively speaking low profile head and then an actual "low-profile" (sometimes called "race") jack. They will sell both types with the low-profile model typically being either comparable to slightly more expensive.

I've found even with the lower-profile model I still have difficulty raising just the front of the car with it; I normally have to raise the rear and then each side up front. I am lowered slightly however so on a stock ride height car that may not be the case.

Even if you're wanting it to say do oil changes and such you shouldn't be jacking up just the front anyways. Oil changes should be performed with either the car fully level or the rear slightly higher in the air (so all the oil travels through the shallow sump to the front-positioned drain bolt).
Old 04-18-2018, 06:59 PM
  #29  
bc6152
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I have a question about using this racing jack. Although I do all my oil changes on other cars I own I've only had my '98 since last July. So if I jack the car to do a change, is it from the rear so the oil runs to the front? If so, where do you place the jack? On the side with a puck or somewhere under the rear? Then is the car supported with jack stands?
Seems very difficult to get under the car to spin off the filter and release the oil...
I'll admit it: I'm a novice with the Corvette so please explain clearly... I'd like to order this jack while it's on sale...

Last edited by bc6152; 04-18-2018 at 06:59 PM.
Old 04-18-2018, 07:13 PM
  #30  
mark4cam
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Originally Posted by bc6152
I have a question about using this racing jack. Although I do all my oil changes on other cars I own I've only had my '98 since last July. So if I jack the car to do a change, is it from the rear so the oil runs to the front? If so, where do you place the jack? On the side with a puck or somewhere under the rear? Then is the car supported with jack stands?
Seems very difficult to get under the car to spin off the filter and release the oil...
I'll admit it: I'm a novice with the Corvette so please explain clearly... I'd like to order this jack while it's on sale...
I jacked the front using pucks (wood actually), one side then the other, getting the front wheels off the ground. Jackstands under the front crossmember. Then jacked the rear using a piece of wood, centered under the rear crossmember until the rear was slightly higher than the front. Jackstands under the rear crossmember. Then clear to change the oil and whatever else you want to do.
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:35 PM
  #31  
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Very clear and informative answers. Thanks 8Vette and Mark...
Old 04-18-2018, 08:26 PM
  #32  
mrmagloo
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I've got the 67" 2 piece race ramps (10" Lift) with the 12" cribs for the rear. I bought an Arcan 3 ton floor jack from Costco and crossbeam from HF to lift the car onto the cribs, and the setup works out great.

Last edited by mrmagloo; 04-19-2018 at 09:20 AM.
Old 04-18-2018, 08:50 PM
  #33  
bc6152
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Originally Posted by mark4cam
I jacked the front using pucks (wood actually), one side then the other, getting the front wheels off the ground. Jackstands under the front crossmember. Then jacked the rear using a piece of wood, centered under the rear crossmember until the rear was slightly higher than the front. Jackstands under the rear crossmember. Then clear to change the oil and whatever else you want to do.

Is there a specific height of jack stands that will fit under the car or are most stands a standard size?
Old 04-18-2018, 10:09 PM
  #34  
msandym
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Originally Posted by smagray04
Curb weight of a C5 is 3,250 lbs. Is the 3-ton the way to go or is the HF 1.5 ton sufficient for lifting one side or one end of a C5? I know the safety margin is more with the 3-ton, but the thing weighs over 70 lbs. Opinions, please.
I have the 1.5 and it works fine .
Old 04-19-2018, 04:57 AM
  #35  
drivejumpfly
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
I usually jack the front of my car at the jack point on each side and slide my ramps under each front tire. The front of my car is too low to allow me to drive up onto my ramps. Then remove the drain plug and while the oil is draining I jack the rear of the car from under the center of the rear cross member. I get the rear a bit higher than the front to force the oil to drain from the back of the pan to the front of the pan (drain plug is in the front of the pan). When the draining slows to a drip I lower the rear of the car and then reinstall the drain plug and change out the filter. I add the oil before I remove the ramps and then jack each side to remove the ramps. Start the car for a minute or so then shut it off and while I am waiting for the oil in the engine to drain back to the pan I clean up and put the used oil into recycle containers. I finally check the oil level and if necessary top up the oil until it just touches the top line on the dip stick.
Yep, that's what I do. Use both of the jacks in my video and rhino ramps under the front tires so I can slide underneath it. Then go and jack the back up with a piece of wood on the jack.
Old 04-19-2018, 05:50 AM
  #36  
laurent_zo6
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At 24lbs, you could take the HF 1.5 ton low jack with you on trips.
Old 04-19-2018, 07:55 AM
  #37  
Spaceme1117
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Originally Posted by smagray04
Curb weight of a C5 is 3,250 lbs. Is the 3-ton the way to go or is the HF 1.5 ton sufficient for lifting one side or one end of a C5? I know the safety margin is more with the 3-ton, but the thing weighs over 70 lbs. Opinions, please.
I have both the 1.5 ton and 3 ton aluminum Harbor Freight jacks. If I am just lifting one corner of my 02 Z06, the 1.5 ton jack is fine and is very easy to move around.

If I am lifting either the entire front or rear by jacking on the frame, I use the 3 ton jack. I tried using the 1.5 ton jack and it just felt like I was on the edge of it failing. Better safe than sorry.

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To Harbor Freight Low Profile Floor Jack (vs Craftsman)

Old 04-19-2018, 09:58 AM
  #38  
mrmagloo
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Most if not all jack stands are adjustable height. So height is not really an issue.

Ramp length to allow for a long transition while gaining height can be an issue if you just want to drive up onto ramps. Corvettes are low to begin with and those that further lower the car for what ever reason just exacerbate the issue of being able to drive the car onto the less expensive ramp systems.

I personally cannot afford Race Ramp offerings mentioned by the previous poster so I simply jack the car up and slide my cheap ramps under the front wheels. Also don't have the storage space that a 2 piece system requires. My procedure works for me.
If you catch a sale on the RaceRamps, it definitely helps. 15% to 20% isn't all that hard to get, if you shop and wait. I'll tell you what, I have a heck of a lot more piece of mind getting under the car sitting on solid ramps/cribs than jack stands. Plus, its' a whole lot faster to run up the ramps and just crossbeam up the rear.
Old 04-19-2018, 11:06 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
When they are offered (most likely never will be) for under $100 they might be in my price range. Until then I will use my jack to raise the car and slide under my cheap ramps. I do not use jack stands to support my car so I don't have to worry about piece of mid when I get under my car. Extra few minutes the few times per year I need to get the car off the ground is no problem for me. The $400 + for the 67" ramps and cribs simply is not worth it to me. Even 20% off is still 3 times what I am willing to spend for 3 or 4 times a year they might get used. YMMV
FWIW, I got my 67" 2 piece ramps for $293 shipped. But I get it, they certainly aren't in the Rhino price range.
Old 04-19-2018, 11:43 AM
  #40  
tmirisola
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I have the Harbor Freight Aluminum Jack and it works great on my C5. Keep an eye out for it to be on sale for an excellent deal.


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