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I have a kit installed, combination of foil faced foam (radiant barrier) throughout for thermal and road noise insulation coupled with sound deadening mats on large flat surfaces. The effect is impressive, took me a while to complete (did the seats at the same time) and I wondered if the car was running right at first, then realized it was just that much quieter inside. The kit included many pieces of the foam insulation, most were quite close to the correct shape and size -- but still required a bit of scissor effort at edges. Having used a kit, I see the materials are not difficult to identify and obtain, possibly for some savings, but the kit is fitted everywhere. Every. Where.
To achieve that level of coverage will require a lot of Kraft paper templating to get a good fit. Less work if you just do the seat tubs -- but imagine less effect too. I recommend using a kit. Crazy Cowboy, Vettenuts, Ecklers and others have radiant barrier kits for reasonable money, around $250.
You can get radiant barrier at most home centers, More for sound deadener -- but you can get that on Amazon or similar for reasonable money as well.
I can only speak for what I've used -- other's will have differing opinions. I want with the Crazy Cowboy kit: http://www.exoticvette.com/c5-insulation-kit.html
I should have taken photos while in work, but didn't -- got carried away with getting the car back on the road. I'm in central Florida, and so is Dan at exoticvette, so he dropped my kit off at the house, and included several panels of 'Stinger Roadkill' sound deadener for a good price.
Wow-reminds me of a few years back restoring vintage mustangs....we would get a ton of heat through the floor and a ton of noise through everywhere else! All of us vintage guys were really into sound deadening/insulation. Consensus was to just make your own, keeping in mind you definitely don't have to cover every inch-its to add mass to large areas to reduce the harmonic resonance (or whatever fancy name i'm forgetting!). I remember i used some cheapo frost king insulation from Home Depot in our 66 (don't laugh until you research it-actually did super well) and then i split up an order of dynamat with another rustang guy and used that sparingly on the floor. Made a huge difference. Point being, the stuff is really easy to customize and do yourself without a precut kit. Heck, some guys even used this roof tar paper type stuff to add mass to panels...no bueno if it gets hot, and they found out the hard way! Let google be your friend and you will get TONS of ideas/suggestions. Tons of companies out there that make really good stuff at varying degrees of coin!
Mine is not a track car but a DD, so I was not concerned about the small weight addition. 11 years later I am guessing this is one of the quietest C5's out there.
If I had it to do over, I would exclusively use RAAMat and Ensolite instead of Dynamat as it has the same properties without slicing your fingers to ribbons... http://www.raamaudio.com
Mine is not a track car but a DD, so I was not concerned about the small weight addition. 11 years later I am guessing this is one of the quietest C5's out there.
If I had it to do over, I would exclusively use RAAMat and Ensolite instead of Dynamat as it has the same properties without slicing your fingers to ribbons... http://www.raamaudio.com
Bottom line, is it worth all the money and all the hard work? I am on the fence with this.
After reading about how airplanes are quieted by using a Frost King type foil, I'm going in. The Frost King is In expensive at Lowes and I have to fix my rocking seats anyway. Eager to do doors and back of my vert in particular.
My A/C was dead for a year, and doing the main cabin made a big difference in heat and sound.
But it is a lot of work. Seats out, carpets out, trim pieces out -- and the side trims like to break the mount points.
That link's author makes a persuasive case that the "noise" you hear is actually a combination of things: true road noise plus harmonic distortion. The cure for each of these is different.
Also, as long as you've torn apart your interior to attack the noise issue, you should take that opportunity to address temperature abatement. Tackle all three at once and save yourself a lot of time.
Finally, attacking the noise issues only in the front compartment floor and transmission tunnel won't accomplish as much as you might think. You must also address the baggage compartment and the rear wheel wells, because much (most?) of the road noise you hear actually emanates from those two locations.
Has anybody done a noise and heat insulation on a sold targa top before?
I have not, at least not on the top itself. I haven't heard that the top is the source of much noise.
I've done the rest of the interior...it took a couple of days total - much of which is taking out and then re-install the seats, the interior bits and carpet. Of course, I did it while I was installing an aftermarket amp, speakers and navigation head unit for my upgraded stereo system.