Torque wrench necessary?
#21
Melting Slicks
Harbor freight torque wrenches can be a little iffy. As a matter of fact, I'm skeptical of any mechanical (click type) Torque Wrench made from Chineseum. They tend to be "sticky" and you can significantly overtorque a fastener with them if they get stuck and don't click. Don't ask me how I (and several of my friends) know this.
The old fashioned beam type torque wrenches are OK, although reading them can be difficult. I'm referring to a beam type torque driver like this 1/2" drive Craftsman version http://amzn.com/B007KHFFVA There are less expensive versions made from genuine Chineseum for under $20.
A good, relatively inexpensive option is the electronic "digital torque adapter." I have one like this from Amazon. http://amzn.com/B009GLISI0/ Use it as your extension when installing the lugs and you'll be golden.
The old fashioned beam type torque wrenches are OK, although reading them can be difficult. I'm referring to a beam type torque driver like this 1/2" drive Craftsman version http://amzn.com/B007KHFFVA There are less expensive versions made from genuine Chineseum for under $20.
A good, relatively inexpensive option is the electronic "digital torque adapter." I have one like this from Amazon. http://amzn.com/B009GLISI0/ Use it as your extension when installing the lugs and you'll be golden.
I don't see it referenced often, but I have seen more than one reference that noted all torque wrenches should be used in the upper half of the indicated range for accuracy.
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (09-23-2018)
#23
Racer
At least get one that you can use for small torque settings like under 15 psi and a big one that will go to 160 plus.
If your manual has a torque setting specified, there is a reason.
Spaggs
If your manual has a torque setting specified, there is a reason.
Spaggs
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (09-23-2018)
The following users liked this post:
gaustins11 (09-23-2018)
#26
Burning Brakes
I broke my Craftsman clicker type 1/2 wrench doing the lift kit on my Tacoma. After reading tons of reviews, it seemed like for the average hobbyist and someone who isn't building motors regularly the Harbor Freight unit is more than sufficient.
That being said, I torque pretty much every fastener I touch, if I have a torque value. The only ones I know I haven't done is my seat bolts, but that was a simple access problem, at least for the back bolts.
With lug nuts I view it as cheap and easy insurance. I'll spin them on by hand until I've got smooth engagement with no binding, then if I've got it out I'll use my electric impact on it's lightest touch to spin the lugs until I get the first tiniest kick on the clutch and then start going through the torque sequence.
That being said, I torque pretty much every fastener I touch, if I have a torque value. The only ones I know I haven't done is my seat bolts, but that was a simple access problem, at least for the back bolts.
With lug nuts I view it as cheap and easy insurance. I'll spin them on by hand until I've got smooth engagement with no binding, then if I've got it out I'll use my electric impact on it's lightest touch to spin the lugs until I get the first tiniest kick on the clutch and then start going through the torque sequence.
#28
Instructor
I've had U.S.A. made Craftsman torque wrenches stick more often than HF. And have check both a 1/2 and 3/8 HF against a torque meter and found them both to be within about 5% on the upper half of their scales. The HF digital torque meter, on the other hand, was exactly on everywhere I checked. Remarkable for the money.
I don't see it referenced often, but I have seen more than one reference that noted all torque wrenches should be used in the upper half of the indicated range for accuracy.
I don't see it referenced often, but I have seen more than one reference that noted all torque wrenches should be used in the upper half of the indicated range for accuracy.
Also if you want top of the line without paying for snap on, their torque wrenches are made by cdi. They’re the same minus the dual 80 ratchet head on the snap on.
#29
Le Mans Master
#30
Safety Car
Always torque to the specified numbers in the manual. Even if you only do basic maintenance you should have a ft pound and inch pound torque wrench...always better to be safe then sorry...
The following users liked this post:
gaustins11 (09-23-2018)
#33
Melting Slicks
I never used to torque my lug nuts until I had a few bad experiences with dumbasses. Had a set of front tires installed at a Good Year store and that night the left front wheel came off. It went underneath the car, raised the car up and then popped out just behind the drivers door. The car came crashing down and tore up the suspension and some body parts. The wheel went bouncing down the street, bounced completely over a Corvair never touching it and then knocked down a small tree.
I had a new set of metal wheels and new tires installed on my truck years ago by Discount Tire before they starting using torque wrenches. I had a flat and I could not bust the lugs loose! Put a three foot cheater bar on my 1/2" drive Craftsman ratchet and was jumping on the cheater bar. Busted my socket and stripped the teeth in the ratchet. Yes, use a torque wrench.
I had a new set of metal wheels and new tires installed on my truck years ago by Discount Tire before they starting using torque wrenches. I had a flat and I could not bust the lugs loose! Put a three foot cheater bar on my 1/2" drive Craftsman ratchet and was jumping on the cheater bar. Busted my socket and stripped the teeth in the ratchet. Yes, use a torque wrench.
The following users liked this post:
gaustins11 (09-24-2018)
#34
Burning Brakes
I never used to torque my lug nuts until I had a few bad experiences with dumbasses. Had a set of front tires installed at a Good Year store and that night the left front wheel came off. It went underneath the car, raised the car up and then popped out just behind the drivers door. The car came crashing down and tore up the suspension and some body parts. The wheel went bouncing down the street, bounced completely over a Corvair never touching it and then knocked down a small tree.
I had a new set of metal wheels and new tires installed on my truck years ago by Discount Tire before they starting using torque wrenches. I had a flat and I could not bust the lugs loose! Put a three foot cheater bar on my 1/2" drive Craftsman ratchet and was jumping on the cheater bar. Busted my socket and stripped the teeth in the ratchet. Yes, use a torque wrench.
I had a new set of metal wheels and new tires installed on my truck years ago by Discount Tire before they starting using torque wrenches. I had a flat and I could not bust the lugs loose! Put a three foot cheater bar on my 1/2" drive Craftsman ratchet and was jumping on the cheater bar. Busted my socket and stripped the teeth in the ratchet. Yes, use a torque wrench.
#35
Melting Slicks
I love tire shops that use a rattle gun to install the lugs, then use a torque wrench to check after. Well yeah, sure enough that nut installed with a 200 lb/ft rattle gun is fine at 100 lb/ft. -- till you try to remove it...
#36
Burning Brakes
There is nothing wrong with Harbor Freight torque wrenches. I have used them for many years in my machine shop right beside Craftsman and Snap On.
If you have a Harbor Freight near you, as I do, it is so easy to pick up one. The price is good too.
They had a three piece torque wrench bundle for sale a few years ago and I bought one. Costs less than a named brand single wrench.
Don't be afraid of Harbor Freight tools. Their quality has improved a lot in the last few years.
Good luck!
If you have a Harbor Freight near you, as I do, it is so easy to pick up one. The price is good too.
They had a three piece torque wrench bundle for sale a few years ago and I bought one. Costs less than a named brand single wrench.
Don't be afraid of Harbor Freight tools. Their quality has improved a lot in the last few years.
Good luck!
The following users liked this post:
gaustins11 (09-24-2018)
#37
Safety Car
I agree. Worst offender I ever had was in Florida. I had to have a flat repaired on one of the Benzs while we were traveling down there. I had the writer at that tire place put "Hand tighten the lugs with a torque wrench set to 90 ft. lb." on the work order. I will give them credit for coming to me and telling me, "Our tech doesn't have a torque wrench." Then I said, "He can use mine," and I went out and got (one of) mine out of the trunk. First he went around the wheel and it clicked on all of them. Then I said, "Back them off with the impact wrench and tighten them with the torque wrench." He did that, and when the wrench went "click," he gave it another quarter turn with the torque wrench. He did that same thing on every lug. I just gave up at that point. Needless to say, I drove about a block away, stopped in a parking lot and backed them off again with a breaker bar before torquing them properly.
#38
Steel wheels, I don't worry about using a torque wrench because they can be torqued as tight as possible without damaging anything. Alloy wheels are easier to mess up by over-torqueing, so I would use a torque wrench on those...
#39
Le Mans Master