So I see the torque specification is to tighten lug nuts to 100 lbs. How exact should that be? Do I need to buy a torque wrench to replace my good 'ol 4-way lug wrench?

 

So the book says torque them but I have owned over 100 vehicles during the last 40 years, lots of them with alloy wheels and never torqued a lug nut. Lately I've been using a ratchet but I used to use air tools in the past.

 

 

You can find decent 1/2" drive torque wrenches for under $100. Look at the Kobalt torque wrench at Lowe's or a Craftsman torque wrench. Amazon has a variety of brands too. The OEM lug nuts are 19mm so get a 19mm socket (a 3/4" socket works too) and a 6" 1/2" drive extension. A "deep" 19mm or 3/4" socket works too. This socket helps if you have longer aftermarket lugnuts.

I torque the lug nuts on my Corvettes in two stages; first to 70 ft-lbs then to 100.

 

I always torque mine because I don't want to use an impact and damage the lug nuts I bought

 

My rules of thumb.
1. If something bad could happen if it comes loose - then torque it for sure.
2. If not, torque it or roll the dice- your choice.

Bolts stretch when you tighten them, Not enough torque, they come loose. Just enough, they strech and hold. Too tight you fatigue or snap the bolt.

 

Perhaps if you think of it as an "addition" to your tool chest, instead of as a "replacement", the perspective will change

A torque wrench can be a very important tool to have. With aluminum components, it is especially important to just not go tightening everything "by feel". They are a must when something is required to be torqued to the correct pre-load value.

 

 

 

As GCG suggested, consider this a nice (and necessary) addition to your tool chest. And as c4cruiser and Hardscrable said, you can find some relatively affordable.

 

Now I never thought about the bolt stretching. Makes sense though. I'm not good with dice. I'll get a torque wrench. Thanks.

 

Another reason to use a torque wrench is to keep the bolt loads on the hubs and brake rotors relatively equal.

True story. About a dozen years ago, when I was working at a dealership, doing inspection/reconditioning on their used cars, we got a shipment of 9 nearly identical (except for color and options) luxury cars. They were all "off lease" two year old cars with between 30,000 and 40,000 miles. Out of the nine cars, four of them needed tires. They still had the original factory installed rubber on them, and no signs that they'd ever been touched (never even rotated the tires as far as I could tell). All of those wheels were easily removed (with a battery powered "impact wrench" of the time) for dismounting the worn tires and installing new tires. The lugs were tightened to factory spec, but no tighter.

The other five cars all had fresh tires on them, lots of tread, different brands of tires. Every last one of those cars had warped brake rotors and shook like hell when you pressed the brake pedal. Removing the wheels from those took a while, even with a strong air powered impact wrench. For a couple of them, I had to put the car back on the ground and use a breaker bar and cheater pipe to break the lugs loose. The lugs had obviously been installed by a tire place with an impact wrench and an operator who wailed on them with the impact wrench until he was bored, then moved on to the next nut.

 

 

You can get a torque wrench for about $10 when they are on sale at Harbor Freight.

 

Well, I don't think I like coffee that much, but I am convinced I need to use a torque wrench. Thanks.

 

Harbor freight torque wrenches can be a little iffy. As a matter of fact, I'm skeptical of any mechanical (click type) Torque Wrench made from Chineseum. They tend to be "sticky" and you can significantly overtorque a fastener with them if they get stuck and don't click. Don't ask me how I (and several of my friends) know this.

The old fashioned beam type torque wrenches are OK, although reading them can be difficult. I'm referring to a beam type torque driver like this 1/2" drive Craftsman version http://amzn.com/B007KHFFVA There are less expensive versions made from genuine Chineseum for under $20.

A good, relatively inexpensive option is the electronic "digital torque adapter." I have one like this from Amazon. http://amzn.com/B009GLISI0/ Use it as your extension when installing the lugs and you'll be golden.

 

Never a problem with clicker types. If I haven't used it in a while I put it on half the torque I'm looking for to make sure it clicks. I've checked the Harbor Freight clickers against my Craftsman and Snapon clicker. No problemo. Wheel torque ain't rocket science. Prolly more important that the torque be consistant.

 

Beware those beam type torque wrenches. They will out live you.

 

 

IMO yes. If you're doing work that calls for a torque rating, on a critical component particularly, do it. Wheels apply.
A decent torque wrench is one of the most important tools in a tool cabinet. I also have 2; one standard, one inch pound.