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I picked up my 45K mile 04Z in October and have been slowly going though it. Changed all fluids, including flushing the tranny, rear diff, brakes, clutch (Ranger method) and power steering. Ran a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil through for a few hundred miles before changing the oil to Rotella T6 (this procedure quieted a sticky lifter). Swapped on an ATI balancer (nothing wrong with the stock one, this was 100% a preventative repair), and added the LMC5. Changed out the plugs and wires for NGK TR55 plugs (hotter spark) and GM Performance Parts red wires. Added Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires (stock 295's rear, 255 fronts). Belts and hoses look good, but I'll probably pick up a set and swap those out soon. Before summer rolls around here in Phoenix, I'll pull the radiator and A/C condenser to give them a good cleaning.
Also put together a spare tire package for long road trips that take me out of cell coverage (search my posts for details). I wouldn't hesitate to hop in my car and drive it anywhere in the country at this point.
Oh...and have a new MGW shifter on the way. The stock shifter is garbage. Literally the worst shifter I have ever had in any manual car...
Last edited by Bushman66; Feb 12, 2019 at 09:35 AM.
Reason: Addition
Two ways to determine if the car had a column lock recall performed, 1) there should be a sticker on the inside fender under the hood. 2) you can call a Chevy dealership with the VIN and ask them to verify.
If your car has a HUD, the image is projected at the front of the car. This can help with judging parking distance.
On a manual transmission car you can check to see if you have an LMC5 or CLB by simply trying to turn the wheel without the car running, and the key out of the ignition. If the wheels turns, you’re good. If it locks, order an LMC5.
To the guy who said vent the bell housing... why? I've had 4 of these things, two full race cars, never touched my bell housing. Clutch hydraulics don't like radiant header heat. We always wrapped the clutch hydraulics with DEI cool tape and changed out the fluid in the reservoir before any track weekend.
OP it sounds like you've got a good list. Thinks like cleaning the drainage udders and running Techron through the gas every oil change are good advice. Same with cleaning the little chip on the key (it wears out over time). Column lock bypass is good, but if it ever does lock, you can force it to unlock by jaming the wheel left and right against the lock as you turn the key to the on position.
I never had a water pump go on a C5, but they seem to happen around 100K miles for some people. So if you ever see/smell coolant that's most likely what it is; center of engine bay. Don't mix Dexcoll and green stuff, use one or the other. I've always used Dexcool (red/orange).
If your power windows every stop working you can jiggle the accordion where the wires go into the doors. Sometimes that connector can get dirty and needs to be cleaned.
Enjoy the car... C5s are some of my favorite Corvettes.
Skip the coils unless they are bad. Do wires and plugs though.
And don't drive in the rain? WTF?? It's not going to melt. In the end it's a car designed and built to be sold and used in all types of weather. It's fine.
This is an interesting comment and I believe one to really take note of. The original plugs and “good” for 100,000 miles and since you haven’t reached that mileage I would give a LOT of consideration to changing the plugs and wires because the plugs become “fused” to the block after such a long time.
Great, now you're getting me worried. My 2004 base 6mt has about 59k miles on it now. Its starting to develop a miss, more so after the engine bay gets hot from idling in traffic for an hour or so. I am thinking that the plugs/wires are probably original and need to be replaced, but now I am worried about stripping ut the threads.....
Originally Posted by laurent_zo6
Check if your udders are clean. They are on both driver and passenger side. If not, it can flood wiper motor and other things.
Where exactly are these udders at, I want to give them a look.
Last edited by VFR RC46; Feb 12, 2019 at 04:08 PM.
Great, now you're getting me worried. My 2004 base 6mt has about 59k miles on it now. Its starting to develop a miss, more so after the engine bay gets hot from idling in traffic for an hour or so. I am thinking that the plugs/wires are probably original and need to be replaced, but now I am worried about stripping ut the threads.....
I wouldn't worry... just change them. Tiny smear of anti-seize on the new plugs going in.
Where exactly are these udders at, I want to give them a look.
Sides of the cowl. There are ones on each side if I recall.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.