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Thank everyone for the input. I think I may have to go at it from a different angle. Maybe I need to start a new thread but here goes. How do I get the headlights to pop up every time like clockwork instead of having to pop the hood and turn the motor **** to get the headlight to come up? Usually the left comes up on a regular basis but the right regularly doesn't.
Thank everyone for the input. I think I may have to go at it from a different angle. Maybe I need to start a new thread but here goes. How do I get the headlights to pop up every time like clockwork instead of having to pop the hood and turn the motor **** to get the headlight to come up? Usually the left comes up on a regular basis but the right regularly doesn't.
This is going to sound like a real smart aleck answer... fix it.
There is a ton of information on headlight repairs, gear replacement etc... do a little research and fix them...
...How do I get the headlights to pop up every time like clockwork instead of having to pop the hood and turn the motor **** to get the headlight to come up? Usually the left comes up on a regular basis but the right regularly doesn't.
If manually relieving the pressure allows it to work and the motor works fine closing, while not producing the well known "rat-tat-tat" noise, chances are your motor is OK and it is just the bump stops that limit the closing action what needs to be replaced (even though they might look fine to the naked eye). The ones that limit the opening action are probably fine, but I would replace all 4 (it might be a good idea to do the same to the other side as well).
The way the headlights work is not based on predetermined positions. When the headlight doors open or close and they reach the end of their travel, they press against the corresponding rubber bump stops. As a result the current through the headlight motors increases and that is sensed by the Headlight Door Control Module, which in turn cuts power to the motors.
If there are missing or damaged bump stops, or they are scored too deep, the motor might keep working longer than really needed, which could result in over torque. If that happens, the next time the motor is operated it would require more torque to perform the action. That would mean more current than normal and the possible intervention of the Headlight Control Module, shutting again the motor before the door actually moves.
If you need replacements you can order them from here.
In addition to that, there is a TSB for the driver's side headlight motor that calls for shimming it.
There is the cheap option for fixed headlights - Depo housings. You can get them on Ebay for like $300 (I have a used pair also I'm going to sell). The issue with these is they give you a "frog eye" look and are not completely flush with the body like Radio Flyer's are - I have switch to Radio Flyer's after about 2 years with the Depo "frog eyes" - never going to flip ups again so selling my stock headlight assemblies this weekend actually.
[QUOTE=jglassmaker;1598927514]There is the cheap option for fixed headlights - Depo housings. You can get them on Ebay for like $300 (I have a used pair also I'm going to sell). The issue with these is they give you a "frog eye" look and are not completely flush with the body like Radio Flyer's are - I have switch to Radio Flyer's after about 2 years with the Depo "frog eyes" - never going to flip ups again so selling my stock headlight assemblies this weekend actually.
[QUOTE]
Just a suggestion only but I would hang onto to your stock headlight assemblies. They are becoming harder to find and commanding lots of money.
Just a suggestion only but I would hang onto to your stock headlight assemblies. They are becoming harder to find and commanding lots of money.
Good idea, but I've held onto them for about 3-4 years now and it was time to clean out all my old spare parts for space. I need a house with a garage asap
If manually relieving the pressure allows it to work and the motor works fine closing, while not producing the well known "rat-tat-tat" noise, chances are your motor is OK and it is just the bump stops that limit the closing action what needs to be replaced (even though they might look fine to the naked eye). The ones that limit the opening action are probably fine, but I would replace all 4 (it might be a good idea to do the same to the other side as well).
The way the headlights work is not based on predetermined positions. When the headlight doors open or close and they reach the end of their travel, they press against the corresponding rubber bump stops. As a result the current through the headlight motors increases and that is sensed by the Headlight Door Control Module, which in turn cuts power to the motors.
If there are missing or damaged bump stops, or they are scored too deep, the motor might keep working longer than really needed, which could result in over torque. If that happens, the next time the motor is operated it would require more torque to perform the action. That would mean more current than normal and the possible intervention of the Headlight Control Module, shutting again the motor before the door actually moves.
If you need replacements you can order them from here.
In addition to that, there is a TSB for the driver's side headlight motor that calls for shimming it.
Great post! Save the popups! I had one of the first set of SpecterWerks on my old 2001 C5 Z06. It was the coolest thing ever back in the day; C5-R look. Then the C6 came out the proper integrated fixed lights and the C5-R style looked silly. Now nearly 20 years later the pop-ups are unique and rare and I love them.
Aside from replacing the bump stops as mentioned previously, you should also replace the nylon gear with a brass gear. There was also a TSB that suggested putting a washer under the heads of the three bolts that mount the headlight motor to the frame of the car to space the motor away a little bit. All of these parts can be sourced from www.rodneydickman.com. He has everything you will need to fix this permanently.
I don't understand why you don't just fix what you have if it's having problems. The diagnosis process for the headlight assemblies is well documented and the most expensive thing you may possibly have to buy is a headlight relay box or a new motor; both of which can be had through re-sellers affordably.
Originally Posted by crx1989
Thanks for the recommendation but wtf. $1200. I was thinking $400 or less.
Buy the ones you see online for under $400 and a few months later post the reason why you realized you just wasted $300-$400.
When I bought my c5 it had the frog eye lights and I will say they suck. The light pattern is horrible and I felt like I would have been better off with a flashlight taped to my hood. Now I have stock flip up lights and they are ok but still leave much to be desired. I also am budget conscious and will not spend radio flyer money so I just deal with the stock stuff. I hear euro housings are a good upgrade but at that point you might as well spend the money on radio flyer because the euro housings are outrageous in price too.
. But as suggested above, keep the original stuff........last of the pop ups
