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Was up at Thunderhill Raceway last Sunday, and a major (between a cross-drill hole and the circumference, all the way through) crack developed on the left rear rotor. Using stock calipers. This is the third time I've had the car at the track. I know the drill, so I won't even begin to try to send it back to Baer. But my experience bears witness to the wisdom of the "watch those cross-drilled rotors very carefully." I have the smaller rear ones, and now know that they have 14 inch available for the rears. What kind of luck have people been having with the 14 inch rear Eradispeeds? What (not a lot more expensive, I'd hope) alternative rotors would you guys recommend?
I've heard more than once the drilled slotted rotors aren't good for anything but looks, I run them on my car without any problems at all. :smash:
but I've seen factory rotors split to the fins too so I'd say any rotor will do this if subjected to enough abuse.
The only down fall of the 14" rear rotor is your only really using half of it, this might however allow for better cooling in the long run.
I've heard more than once the drilled slotted rotors aren't good for anything but looks
I've been wondering how the GM slotted and drilled rotors from Bob at Fichtner hold up. They look good. :chevy
I helped another forum member put some on his '98 pace car early this year, they seem to hold up well but they don't fend off rust like the washed Baers do.
His look way older than they should for a garage queen car. :(
If you show your car, use the drilled and slotted. If you run your car on a road course, especially one that is hard on brakes, stay with the stock rotors.
If you do both, switch em out, it is not difficult :D
CPT Z06, believe me, my car ain't no garage queen. I bought it with 7,000 miles on the clock, and the eradispeeds were already on the car. As to "lots of air," what have you done over the stock-set-up, that already has air intakes for the rear brakes?
As to "racing rotors," which do you like? Anyone? Brand/type of racing rotors?
I was going to get the http://www.Movit.de kit, but after chatting with John Sheils, I'm getting DRM front ducts, SS pistons, high temp fluid, and some extra ducting to the front of the front rotor (John has 2inch tubing from the inside of the right and left air dams to the front of the rotor) and Z06 pads and the $55 stock rotors. The $2300 I was going to spend can buy many years worth of stock rotors and pads for me.
I was going to get the http://www.Movit.de kit, but after chatting with John Sheils, I'm getting DRM front ducts, SS pistons, high temp fluid, and some extra ducting to the front of the front rotor (John has 2inch tubing from the inside of the right and left air dams to the front of the rotor) and Z06 pads and the $55 stock rotors. The $2300 I was going to spend can buy many years worth of stock rotors and pads for me.
That is a great plan. I would also do the rear ducting...
As per GM DuraStop Rotors - They will crack with extended track time also. (I've cracked some)
The best to hold up to heat without cracking will be slotted rotors. Like Vette Brakes' rotors.
The stock rotors usually won't crack, but will warp and gouge under the stresses.
Think about it this way, if you got 3 track events out of those rotors, you did pretty good. I don't know how many heats you're running, but when I run, I usually put about 100 miles on the car a day. That doesn't sound like a lot, but if you ran your car its hardest all that time, and didn't have a problem with brake fade, I'd say they did their job.
Those new 14s will stay cooler. There is no doubt about that.
I think there's two basic problems, which Baer apparently (I've heard now) is taking seriously enough to offer a different rotor. First, the old one piece rear rotor isn't big enough to disperse heat as well as it needs to, and, a slotted only rotor is always more likely to crack. As I understand it, Baer is not only now offering the big rear rotor, but apparently you can get it without the cross drilling. That's the way I'll probably go. Believe, me, there are a lot of guys who are faster than me out there!
I believe DRM offers something, and, there's always the possibility of doing something on my own. Most of the input I've gotten from folks on this board and local folks is that the old, smaller Eradispeed rear rotor is very prone to this problem. The new, bigger one is supposed to be far less likely to crack (much bigger surface for heat dispersion), and, Shawn at LAPD told me you can even order without the cross-drilling.