I've read the lowering tech notes but have several questions. How does one go about just lowering the car with the bolt lengths first ( no cutting ). Can this be done without taking the wheels off ? And is it absolutely necessary to re-align the car ?

Tom
:confused:

 

Tom--
1) The same way as the directions say, but just skipping the step that tells you to remove and cut the bushings (you must still turn those bolts until they won't turn anymore)
2) Not easily at all. You'll need to get a little 10mm (I think) box wrench in there, and you'll want to relieve the pressure of the spring with a jack under it. All of this would be too difficult with the wheels on. Just take them off (it's EASY!) and give yourself some room to work.
3) No, it's not. Especially when only lowering with the factory bolts (and without cutting). Now, I lowered further than that, and DID start to get some unever tire wear. That, and after getting it aligned, the car tracked much better. You probably should get an alignment once you KNOW the car is at its final resting height (I waited 'til I had been through three different lowering-further episodes before getting mine aligned).

Good luck!

-Kirk


[Modified by KMeloney, 11:35 PM 11/8/2002]

 

I just lowered my 03 as far as the adjuster bolts (front and rear) would allow, but the change in ride height was very slight. It only dropped about 1/4 inch or so. Same thing with my 2000 FRC...it dropped the same small amount.

So I've come to the conclusion that Z51 suspension cars just don't lower much with stock "bolt only" adjustments. However, I've seen coupes and verts that were SLAMMED by merely cranking the bolts.

 

Get the car aligned after lower or raising the height of the car.

Lowering the C5 is fast, easy, and best of all, free. Here's how to do it.

Tools Required
The following tools were used to make the modification.

Floor Jack
Jack Stands (2)
Wheel Blocks
Hog ring Pliers or Needle nose Pliers
Hacksaw or Serrated Knife (optional; see below)
10mm Ratcheting Wrench or 10mm Socket Wrench w/swivel extension
18mm Combination Wrench or 18mm Socket Wrench
13/16" Combination Wrench or 13/16" Deep Socket Wrench
Lowering the Rear
Make certain the car is located on a level surface.
Place blocks or boards under the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling.
Using the floor jack, raise the rear of the car, insuring that the jack is positioned in the center of the rear cross member (silver/gray in color).
Place two jack stands under the rear cross member, and SLOWLY lower the car onto them. Make sure you have raised the car high enough to allow plenty of workspace.
Locate the rear leaf spring. There is a bolt on each end (18mm bottom, 13/16" nut on top), with a rubber bushing top and bottom. At the top of the bolt, above the nut, you will see a small c-clip. This clip must be removed in order to get the nut off the top. Use hog ring pliers or needle nose pliers to remove the clip. NOTE: Only remove the bolt if you wish to lower the car more than about 1 inch in the rear. It is possible, in most cases, to lower about 1 inch without removing the bolt at all and without cutting the bushing. Cutting the bushing may make your ride a bit more harsh than before.
(SKIP IF YOU DID NOT REMOVE THE BOLT) With the c-clip removed, loosen the top nut from the bolt.
(SKIP IF YOU DID NOT REMOVE THE BOLT) Pull out the bolt and bushings from the leaf spring(the leaf spring is NOT under pressure).
(SKIP IF YOU DID NOT REMOVE THE BOLT) Cut both bushings so that the section with the extension is the only one left. Use a hacksaw or serrated knife. NOTE: If the car is too low for your personal preference, you can add back the piece or pieces you cut off.
Once the bushings are cut, reassemble the bolt, bushings, and nut through the leaf spring and A-Arm. Leave TWO threads showing on top when you re-tighten. It will seem loose, but when the car is lowered onto the ground, the weight will load the spring. Don't forget to put the c-clip back on.
Lower the car, the rear is done.
Lowering the Front
Make sure the car is in gear to prevent it from rolling.
Raise the car with the jack positioned in the center of the front cross member.
Place the two jack stands under the cross member, and slowly lower the car onto them.
Remove the front wheels. It may be necessary to slightly loosen the lug nuts before the wheels are completely off the ground.
Find the front leaf spring, and with a 10mm wrench or socket, turn the bolt as if you were loosening it (It is reverse threaded so you are actually tightening it).
Turn the bolt until there is no longer a gap between the bushing and the bolt. Measure the exposed threads to insure the other side is done the same. NOTE: On a Z51 car, the car will not drop as much as one that has the standard suspension. You can completely remove the front lowering bolt if you would like to go even lower. A spreading tool or removal of the a-arm is required to allow removal of the adjusting bolt and bushings.
Put the wheels back on and lower the car. NOTE: It may be necessary to place a board under the tires so you will be able to remove the floor jack once the car is lowered.

 

I didn't see any Zaino application in those instuctions...you slippin'? :yesnod: :seeya

 

Are you following me around "old man" :lol: :lol: What and who is in your sig pix? :confused: Undercover? :lol: :lol:

 

Well I performed the job and want to report that is was quite easy, on target with the instructuions and enjoyable. Initially it lowered the back 1-3/4" and the front 1/2". Then I pulled the bolt out of the front, cut off 2/3 of the bushing and re-inserted them. This lowered the front a total of 1" . So the back is 1-3/4" , and the front 1" lower than stock. Is this the way everyone is leaving theirs? Also should I take it to a GM dealer to have it aligned ? I drove the car and cannot tell a difference in the ride but it's definetly " in the weeds " now.




2002 MY Z06 - CAGS defeat, Homemade front brake duct screens, side vent screens, and rear vent screens from 304 stainless, Custom homemade Aluminum foot rest and accelerator pedal, Homemade shorty antenna, FRC rear partition, Z06 exhaust plate, Reflective red letters front and rear, Str. wheel decal, air bag decal, Scuff plate decals, Chromies, Homemade color matched rear license plate frame, Donaldson with cold air box, TB Bypass, Lowered

 

I lowered mine as much as allowed w/o cutting inot the bushings at all. All in all,it was lowered about an inch. Here are some pics of mine lowered. :cheers:
http://www.fototime.com/4B0082C40EE24D5/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/A2C966425E939EC/standard.jpg

 

I cut the bushings on mine & bought longer bolts for the rear.Total cos was less than $40.00 & took about an hour.I think it makes the car look much better. :cheers:

 

I dropped mine on the stock adjusters and had the alignment redone to improve handeling. Specs and results are at:

http://www.lumenique.com/Cars/zo6/lowered1650.htm

The stock alignment specs are a little conservative (understeering.) After 8700 miles with this alignment and lowering, I have found no treadwear problems as a result of the alignment. However, I have gone through a lot of rubber from cornering wear! :yesnod:

The car feels and handles great! BTW The miles include a 2700 mile cross-country road trip, auto-crossing and track events. :cheers:

Oh yeah... get used to hearing the spoiler grinding away at driveways, curb cuts, speed bumps, dips in the road, etc.... Once in a while you replace the parts (cheap)... no worries. :)


[Modified by kwillmorth, 3:34 PM 11/15/2002]