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I have been using the Dorman 604-107 for the manual HVAC and Dorman 604-106 for the dual zone system. The left and right are the same part with the dual zone system.
The dash pad took me about 15 minutes to remove, I had other things to do while it was off, the hazard switch acted up (fast blinkers) a couple of times so I replaced the Hazard switch, the Hud fell and I repaired that also !!! the actuator was the drivers side and because I was fixing the Hud, it was out along with the Cluster, so it was fairly easy to get at. the bottom screw however I thought to re-install might pose a problem, solved that by inserting the screw and cut a small piece of tape with a hole in it on the screw to hold it in place !!!! easy peasy !!!!! all in all a fairly easy job, love having the Hud working again !!! My 99 I had installed white face gauge backgrounds so the gauges are easy to read day or night, not so in the Z 06, stock black gauges impossible to read a lot of the time !!! ( wife did not want the white faces so having the Hud working again is great !!! Having the air working again with 90 plus temps a good thing !!!
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Hey Paul, don't even look up the thread that I had for swapping out an actuator. I was not going to pay the ransom for the Dual Zone actuator so I bought the manual one for half price and replaced the gears inside and remachined all the parts. It may have taken a half a day but by God I did not give them $50 more. LOL.
Hey Paul, don't even look up the thread that I had for swapping out an actuator. I was not going to pay the ransom for the Dual Zone actuator so I bought the manual one for half price and replaced the gears inside and remachined all the parts. It may have taken a half a day but by God I did not give them $50 more. LOL.
my plan was to repair mine but the motor was shot !!!!!!
this is where the actuator sits, the arrow shows the lower mount hole, which I thought would be difficult to get started, not much room there, so I inserted the screw into the hole of the actuator and cut a small piece of tape with a hole in it to hold the screw, worked easy !!!
this is a pic from Bill Curlee with the actuator in place !!
the guts of the actuator (motor was shot in ours)
for what it's worth, the mounting for the Hud !!!
the hud was easy to fix, kinda ??? drilled out the plastic where the stud was and used a bolt and nut, problem it took me several tries to get the gearing in the right place to view the hud !!! the mirror assy. was just laying in the bottom of the Hud housing.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by Pounder
my plan was to repair mine but the motor was shot !!!!!!
I probably have the parts for one (brand new) sitting at work somewhere. You'd be welcome to em if I could find the thing.
I stole parts from the new to fix the old, but the motor wasn't one of the parts. They are all but identical other than GM changed the two parts to make sure they could soak you extra for the DZ version. It's got a different pinout on the connector (same connector) and it has a pot inside to give positional feedback. The manual one does not have the pot. They have different gears inside depending on what manufacturer. Some cases are slightly different. It's all a charade to get folks to pay more for the DZ one.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by Pounder
the guts of the actuator (motor was shot in ours)
That split gear is the real culprit. They make them with too much press fit on that hollow shaft. Once the gear breaks, everything else works but the gear won't turn the shaft any more. I replaced that gear on mine.
As I recall, the pot is under that blue gear. That's the position feedback. That also appears to be missing a tooth. I'm not sure if that's normal or not.
