Clutch replacement C5 cost
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: Dardenne Prairie Missouri
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I’ve read on here a few times to expect over ~1800 in labor costs alone. The rearend, tranny, differential and torque have to be removed to even get to the clutch. It’s why some people do this project themselves to save labor cost.
#3
Melting Slicks
Vettemasters near Orlando just quoted me $1200 in labor, but the parts/labor quote was $2960, including clutch, slave cylinder, remote bleeder, and rear main seal. I inquired whether I could bring in parts and they seem fine with that. My parts are nearly $1K less for GM Performance parts and a Tick Bleeder. i bet I end up saving $40 when all is said and done...
#4
Race Director
In labor alone, it would be wise to consider using THEIR PARTS as most (if not all) parts you bring in will NOT be covered under warranty.
Would suck if your slave craps out after 9 months and you need to pull it apart again.
I was going to do exactly what you are considering to save money. But unless you are going with all high components (aftermarket clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, etc) my vote would be to shell out the extra money for peace of mind in the unfortunate event you do run into a problem.
While the torque tube is out, I suggest you inspect your couplers for wear and tear. Best to replace if needed while that torque tube is down and out if need be. It can be a costly repair if one of them shreds warping your torque tube bolts. Trust me. I know the expense from not one, but two couplers that crapped out under high load (dropping down a gear and romping it).
Good luck.
Would suck if your slave craps out after 9 months and you need to pull it apart again.
I was going to do exactly what you are considering to save money. But unless you are going with all high components (aftermarket clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, etc) my vote would be to shell out the extra money for peace of mind in the unfortunate event you do run into a problem.
While the torque tube is out, I suggest you inspect your couplers for wear and tear. Best to replace if needed while that torque tube is down and out if need be. It can be a costly repair if one of them shreds warping your torque tube bolts. Trust me. I know the expense from not one, but two couplers that crapped out under high load (dropping down a gear and romping it).
Good luck.
Last edited by WICKEDFRC; 12-22-2019 at 11:09 AM.
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FLYINBY (05-20-2024)
#8
Thanks Strmlne for the link. I see that Rockauto offers kits that include the cylinders as well.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ulics),1000985
Are these worthwhile? Stick with OE?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ulics),1000985
Are these worthwhile? Stick with OE?
#9
Melting Slicks
It’s all a matter of preference. I tend to stay with oem for major things like this but everyone has their own opinion. I don’t like to have any surprises since this is labor intensive.
you’ll also want to replace rear main seal, rear cover gasket, and most likely trans and diff seals while everything is out. Inspect Torque tube bearings too.
you’ll also want to replace rear main seal, rear cover gasket, and most likely trans and diff seals while everything is out. Inspect Torque tube bearings too.
#11
If you are paying others for the labor then replace everything. Like others have said use their parts so they guarantee the job.
If you are doing it yourself then you know what to do.
If you are doing it yourself then you know what to do.
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Wagon Willie (12-22-2019)
#13
I've completed four C5 clutch kits with flywheel at home on my drive on lift in the last two years, it's not that tough.
For a Clutch kit install, one does not need to remove the trans axle, only move it rearwards.
I favor the GM OEM ZO6 clutch kit, easier and a good solid kit. I've completed three of these. I installed the ZO6 clutch kit in my '56 Chevy LS1 & Tremic T-56. Thirteen years of faithful no issue driving. We installed a LS7 clutch kit on my C5 Convert, a little more labor because the bell housing needs to have the bolts loosened up so the flywheel can be install. Also the clutch pedal has a longer travel, a little annoying at first.
YES, have the shop purchase the parts, just get them to agree in writing your recommended parts are the correct parts.
YES, use the bleed kit from TIC, makes bleeding and yearly maintenance bleeding is quick and simple. End this bleed line at the master cylinder. If the Shop your considering doesn't understand or know anything re the remote bleed (flex line), then ME, I'd look for a shop with more experience. Certainly better than removing the intake manifold & ETC, to bleed the clutch...
You can search for the Ranger Bleed method. This method does work well , but it's time consuming and messy,,,, but a good "Work Around" the GM bleed...
PARTS,,, Install a new clutch kit, flywheel, clutch master cylinder, hydraulic release bearing and remote bleed line. Also, use OEM,,,,,,,
Don't let the shop restrict your warranty, Don't sign a release shop responsibility for damage etc to your Car. Read the long disclaimers at the bottom on the shop work order prior to Signing. Make certain the warranty is for parts and labor for some period of time.
AND, a word of advice from C5 experience,
I recommend to Bench Test the complete Hydraulic assembly, master cylinder, coupling, release bearing and remote bleed line, take only a few minutes, We did have one kit that the adapter fitting for the release bearing leaked, poor machining. We caught this when we bled the remote line with the complete clutch kit installed, but the torque tube was not yet instead. Wasted two hours to R&R the hyd bearing, and mod the leaky fitting on the bearing then reinstall.
Advise the shop to start the car when the flywheel has been installed and Dialed in to meet run-out specs.,, Vibration Check.
Also advise the shop to start the car when the flywheel, and clutch kit has been has installed, Vibration and leak retest.
This only takes 2 minutes each time.
As noted We had one leak, and one major brand Clutch Kit Vibration, We found out later that the Pressure plate was not balanced. C5 sat on my Rack for about ten days...
I would also inform the Shop that the C5 Corvettes DO NOT have a Dowel Pin in the Flywheel, tell then do not install one !!!! You can certainly find docs on this.
If you where going to install yourself I would have offered a new clutch kit that we never used.
My 2 Bits,
Good Luck..
Michael... Happy Holidays !!
For a Clutch kit install, one does not need to remove the trans axle, only move it rearwards.
I favor the GM OEM ZO6 clutch kit, easier and a good solid kit. I've completed three of these. I installed the ZO6 clutch kit in my '56 Chevy LS1 & Tremic T-56. Thirteen years of faithful no issue driving. We installed a LS7 clutch kit on my C5 Convert, a little more labor because the bell housing needs to have the bolts loosened up so the flywheel can be install. Also the clutch pedal has a longer travel, a little annoying at first.
YES, have the shop purchase the parts, just get them to agree in writing your recommended parts are the correct parts.
YES, use the bleed kit from TIC, makes bleeding and yearly maintenance bleeding is quick and simple. End this bleed line at the master cylinder. If the Shop your considering doesn't understand or know anything re the remote bleed (flex line), then ME, I'd look for a shop with more experience. Certainly better than removing the intake manifold & ETC, to bleed the clutch...
You can search for the Ranger Bleed method. This method does work well , but it's time consuming and messy,,,, but a good "Work Around" the GM bleed...
PARTS,,, Install a new clutch kit, flywheel, clutch master cylinder, hydraulic release bearing and remote bleed line. Also, use OEM,,,,,,,
Don't let the shop restrict your warranty, Don't sign a release shop responsibility for damage etc to your Car. Read the long disclaimers at the bottom on the shop work order prior to Signing. Make certain the warranty is for parts and labor for some period of time.
AND, a word of advice from C5 experience,
I recommend to Bench Test the complete Hydraulic assembly, master cylinder, coupling, release bearing and remote bleed line, take only a few minutes, We did have one kit that the adapter fitting for the release bearing leaked, poor machining. We caught this when we bled the remote line with the complete clutch kit installed, but the torque tube was not yet instead. Wasted two hours to R&R the hyd bearing, and mod the leaky fitting on the bearing then reinstall.
Advise the shop to start the car when the flywheel has been installed and Dialed in to meet run-out specs.,, Vibration Check.
Also advise the shop to start the car when the flywheel, and clutch kit has been has installed, Vibration and leak retest.
This only takes 2 minutes each time.
As noted We had one leak, and one major brand Clutch Kit Vibration, We found out later that the Pressure plate was not balanced. C5 sat on my Rack for about ten days...
I would also inform the Shop that the C5 Corvettes DO NOT have a Dowel Pin in the Flywheel, tell then do not install one !!!! You can certainly find docs on this.
If you where going to install yourself I would have offered a new clutch kit that we never used.
My 2 Bits,
Good Luck..
Michael... Happy Holidays !!
#14
#15
Vettemasters near Orlando just quoted me $1200 in labor, but the parts/labor quote was $2960, including clutch, slave cylinder, remote bleeder, and rear main seal. I inquired whether I could bring in parts and they seem fine with that. My parts are nearly $1K less for GM Performance parts and a Tick Bleeder. i bet I end up saving $40 when all is said and done...
#16
Instructor
I'm sure there is a lot of variation depending on driving style/conditions but what are some mileages that you guys are replacing clutches at?
#17
Night Owl for life
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#19
Melting Slicks
Corvette Masters
8615 Hwy 17, Maitland, FL 32751
(407) 831-3990
I did have them change my clutch — and do other work while at it. Overall project took three days, as I recall. I ended up with a GM Z06 clutch kit, GM Z06 slave cylinder, Tic remote bleeder, new GM rear main seal, new GM torque tube couplers and slinger, new Timken torque tube bearings, C&S Corvette torque tube O-rings, and unknown brand differential side seals. Overall labor ended up about $1500. I supplied the clutch, slave, remote bleeder, couplers, and bearings — and as noted have no warranty on the labor for those parts, though the parts themselves are warranted.Clutch works well.
8615 Hwy 17, Maitland, FL 32751
(407) 831-3990
I did have them change my clutch — and do other work while at it. Overall project took three days, as I recall. I ended up with a GM Z06 clutch kit, GM Z06 slave cylinder, Tic remote bleeder, new GM rear main seal, new GM torque tube couplers and slinger, new Timken torque tube bearings, C&S Corvette torque tube O-rings, and unknown brand differential side seals. Overall labor ended up about $1500. I supplied the clutch, slave, remote bleeder, couplers, and bearings — and as noted have no warranty on the labor for those parts, though the parts themselves are warranted.Clutch works well.
Last edited by redzg; 07-03-2023 at 07:04 AM.
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wydopnthrtl (07-03-2023)
#20
Melting Slicks
That's what actually drove the change to my clutch as well. Slave started leaking, to the point that a fresh fill wouldn't make it through an entire day. Lot of work and money for a $3 seal (O.K., $150 cylinder since the seal isn't available separately).