Shop manual
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2020
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From: Kauai
Shop manual
Transferred title on 97 yesterday. Little over 150k on odometer. To try most mechanical in my garage here at home. Does the fourth volume supplement include details in the trans/engine supplement or better, is it needed in addition to the three volume set. Trans is currently stuck in drive. Assuming from the forum the car has to be jacked up in order to access front or rear bushings or to even know if it’s those or the cable itself. Car is sitting on dirt about 5 miles from my garage and would have to be backed up fifty feet to the road before it could go forward. Any suggestions besides hiring a tow truck would be great. Read several threads and posts on lifting to jack stands. Was set to buy billet pucks but unsure now. More questions to follow I’m sure. Aloha Doss
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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
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First, do not get under that car in the dirt. Don't even think about it. It's a recipe for getting yourself killed. I don't care what kind of jack stands you'd be using, don't do it. Drag the thing to where you can deal with it using a pickup truck and a tow strap.
I don't recall there being too much shifter related that you can't access from inside the car. I'm pretty sure everything can be done by removing the console.
I think Voice to Text butchered some of your message so it was a little hard to follow.
I don't recall there being too much shifter related that you can't access from inside the car. I'm pretty sure everything can be done by removing the console.
I think Voice to Text butchered some of your message so it was a little hard to follow.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 27
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From: Kauai
Can I drag it five miles with a pickup and tow strap? If so, where to hook the tow strap? Worked on too much stuff in the dirt and lost too many parts to try. Thanks for reminding me that it’s also dangerous. Doss
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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Depends on if you can tow from a low enough point. If the tow strap is angled up to a hitch on a bro-dozer, then no, it'll smash the hell outa the front of the car. If you can tow from down low so it doesn't pull on the air-dam, then ok.
I don't know about 5 miles, but I guess I've done similar things in the past. Depends on how busy the roads are. If it's rural and lightly traveled, and if you and the person helping know how to tow, I don't think it's a problem. Someone else should chime in if having the trans in gear is an issue. You'll be towing slow, but I don't know much about how these transmissions act when towing, and I"m sure people expect them in neutral when doing so.
Can you rent a car hauler and do it that way? Do you have a vehicle capable of towing one?
Personally, I'd be inclined to hire it out to someone with a rollback. Money well spent, just get it over with and with you alive and your vehicles not damaged.
I don't know about 5 miles, but I guess I've done similar things in the past. Depends on how busy the roads are. If it's rural and lightly traveled, and if you and the person helping know how to tow, I don't think it's a problem. Someone else should chime in if having the trans in gear is an issue. You'll be towing slow, but I don't know much about how these transmissions act when towing, and I"m sure people expect them in neutral when doing so.
Can you rent a car hauler and do it that way? Do you have a vehicle capable of towing one?
Personally, I'd be inclined to hire it out to someone with a rollback. Money well spent, just get it over with and with you alive and your vehicles not damaged.
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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
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fwiw, I have both but much prefer the printed paper copy to the dvd. Ymmv.
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
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If the trans is stuck in gear, the chances are that it will not survive a 5 mile tow. Even if you get the car out to a road, you can expect that the rear tires will not survive that distance and probably much less.
I would try to find a trailer that has a suitable winch that will get the car up on the trailer. Check with a local tow company or find a U-Haul shop that can rent you a open trailer and if needed, a tow vehicle. Towing companies deal with having to haul immobile cars. Some companies have flatbed rigs that can easily tow the car and nor really damage anything.
I would try to find a trailer that has a suitable winch that will get the car up on the trailer. Check with a local tow company or find a U-Haul shop that can rent you a open trailer and if needed, a tow vehicle. Towing companies deal with having to haul immobile cars. Some companies have flatbed rigs that can easily tow the car and nor really damage anything.
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From: Hickory NC
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First - as K-Spaz stated – Do Not get under the car while it is on dirt!!!
I agree with the recommendations about getting your car picked up by a flat bed, whether a wrecker company you contact, or perhaps a friend with a tilt trailer you can use and winch your car up on it.
Since the transmission fluid in the 4L60E is pushed around inside the trans by the fluid pump, and your engine is turned off, which you would need for towing, the fluid pump is not circulating the fluid and towing for 5 miles you are generating significant heat which will destroy the bearings and add to your issues. And, as c4cruiser said, you would probably wipe out your tires, too.
Also, you said your car was stuck in drive. Does this mean you can freely move the transmission, but it does not change the gear selection, or can you not move the shift lever at all? If the shift lever will not move at all, it is a problem in the transmission. If the shift lever moves, but does not change the gear, then, as you deduce, it is probably the gear shift cable. One end is easy to get to from inside the car as K-Spaz advised. However, the other end of the trans cable is attached to the trans axle which means you are going under the car. L
Best wishes with this.
I agree with the recommendations about getting your car picked up by a flat bed, whether a wrecker company you contact, or perhaps a friend with a tilt trailer you can use and winch your car up on it.
Since the transmission fluid in the 4L60E is pushed around inside the trans by the fluid pump, and your engine is turned off, which you would need for towing, the fluid pump is not circulating the fluid and towing for 5 miles you are generating significant heat which will destroy the bearings and add to your issues. And, as c4cruiser said, you would probably wipe out your tires, too.
Also, you said your car was stuck in drive. Does this mean you can freely move the transmission, but it does not change the gear selection, or can you not move the shift lever at all? If the shift lever will not move at all, it is a problem in the transmission. If the shift lever moves, but does not change the gear, then, as you deduce, it is probably the gear shift cable. One end is easy to get to from inside the car as K-Spaz advised. However, the other end of the trans cable is attached to the trans axle which means you are going under the car. L
Best wishes with this.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 27
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From: Kauai
Thanks to everyone for the advice and help. Was able to replace the bushing at the shifter. Put in a new battery and car fired right up. Drove to my garage and have ordered some parts as well as picked up a few things for fluid changes and cleaning. It sat quite a while so those are first on my list. Have some pucks on the way for deeper cleaning, replacing the rear shifter bushing and inspection underneath. Also have 4 volume set of shop manual on the way. Haven’t put my foot in it yet but the small amount of drive time is convincing that this is one cool car. Would follow any basic suggestions on what to look for or make sure I do in light of the 150k+ miles. Again Thanks for the safety advice and direction on the shifter. Aloha Doss