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Under batter tray/Right side Frame. Looks like sonething spilled on to frame and caused corrosion. Notorious battery acid leak on to frame??? Ecm inside right fender under battery. Looks like light corrosion on right half top down and bottom rust corrpsion. Is this from battery acid spilled on?
THIS IS WHAT I FOUND WHEN I REMOVED THE BATTERY TO CLEAN THE GROUND ON RIGHT SIDE BELOW THE BATTERY(SEE PHOTOS ABOVE) DOES THE RUST ON THE FRAME AND ECM LOOK LIKE FROM BATTERY ACID SPILLED ON TO FROM BATTERY FAILURES C5 ARE KNOWN FOR?
DO I NEED TO TAKE THE FENDER OFF AND INSPECT THE ECM CONNECTORS TO SEE THERE'S ANY DAMAGE CAUSE BY BATTERY ACID SPILLED ON TO ECM?
THANKS FOR ANY INPUT IN ADVANCE. SORRY FOR ALL THE CAPS BUT I'M POSTING FROM MY PHONE IT'S LIMITED AND TIME CONSUMING TO REPOST IN LOWER CAPS.
Does it look like ecm and ecm connectors and wiring could be damaged or rusted from the ecm photo if battery acid did spillon to ecm?
Very common. Why many make the switch to an AGM battery. It usually looks worse than it really is.
I made this horribly crappy video running into the same thing on my 1997. You can see how crusty the computer was but the actual connections were 100% clean.
EDIT, also you don't need to take the fender all the way off to clean that mess up if you find it necessary.
If your battery is not leaking, it's most likely old damage. The early side post batteries leaked and damaged wiring and the vacuum line inside the harness.
If your battery is not leaking, it's most likely old damage. The early side post batteries leaked and damaged wiring and the vacuum line inside the harness.
sorry I didn't mention this , yes this is old damage from previous owner owned the car. I own this car little over 2 years now. When i bought the car it came with autozone battery.
They do make these pads that sit under the battery and neutralize the acid. I put them in all of my vehicles after having to replace the battery tray in one of my cars. Haven't had a problem since.
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Looks a lot like battery acid damage to me. No need to take the fender off. Just take off the rear portion of the wheel well liner and you have access to that entire area,
...Under batter tray/Right side Frame. Looks like sonething spilled on to frame and caused corrosion. Notorious battery acid leak on to frame???...
...Ecm inside right fender under battery. Looks like light corrosion on right half top down and bottom rust corrpsion. Is this from battery acid spilled on?...
...Does it look like ecm and ecm connectors and wiring could be damaged or rusted from the ecm photo if battery acid did spillon to ecm?
@1997 C5 Yes, it looks like it . You may want to take a look at this Post for a step-by-step process with lots of details and pictures.
They do make these pads that sit under the battery and neutralize the acid. I put them in all of my vehicles after having to replace the battery tray in one of my cars. Haven't had a problem since.
Where can I get this pads and how much does it cost?
You have an early car and many (my early '98 included) had the leaking Delco battery problem. Mine split and dumped its acid. Still under warranty so the dealer did the clean up.
. I'm in middle of trying to remove the PCM on my 97 C5 no room and can't to access screws on back of PCM bracket. Good to see how it's set up at the rear on the pcm bracket. I don't want to take the fender off if all possible to get the PCM out. Any suggestions ia appreciated.looks there's good amount of corrosion around the both connectors on the bottom of the PCM. Anyone know if i can just take off outer half of the pcm bracket instead of from the frame? As I stated I have no room in the back of the pcm to get to the 7mm screws- any suggestions greatly appreciated w/o taking the fender off, I've loosened fender all the screws are off at bottom of the fender but the one at the center rear screw is still in tact.
@1997 C5 Yes, it looks like it . You may want to take a look at this Post for a step-by-step process with lots of details and pictures.
thanks, that post was helpful with the photos. showed rear of the pcm brcket how it looks like. But no post gets into in details how they accessed the screws to pcm bracket to the rear in details such as what socket to use, any extension involced, etc..
Honestly it does not look that bad. Even your frame rail is a fraction of the surface rust that I had. I can say that from my experience the seals work very well on those connectors. If you take the connectors off they will likely be spotless inside. Mine were.
If you really want to take it apart you are going to have to remove the rear screw blind. It will be a 7mm. I think I used a 2 inch extension all 1/4 drive stuff.
If you take the fender loose at the bottom it is a lot easier. It's hard to describe which screws to take out over a computer. Basically I made it so I could pull the bottom of the fender out 3-4 inches.
I managed to remove the pcm outer bracket and got the pcm out and cleaned off surface corrosion off and cleaned all four gorunds on the frame rails. I haven't got to the one's in A pillar and b pillars and the one one the rear frame. I will just drive it for now and see if the reduce engine power and serve traction control system comes back on. I hope by cleaning the four grounds in the engine bay will take care of this issue. The only code on DTC IS 38 RTD NO COMM. anyone know what this is and what i need to fix this ???