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So.. Last night, about 55 miles from home, my clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed. Got out, saw fluid leaking out front my by my firewall. I was fortunately able to get it started again and get to 4th gear, where i had to time lights to not stop!
I see ALOT of controversy over master cylinders. I drive my car, not race. I do not need 'high performance'. Ive read that installing a tick, when cruise is set, can be disengaged by hitting a bump due to no assist spring. I've balso read about the 'throw' range.
Who has experience with these either way? Please chime in!
I've had two Tick MCs. With my twin disc RPS the standard Tick made the clutch feel like a off-on switch. I ended up getting a new Tick with a smaller bore that makes the drive much better, with a softer engagement. Ticks are Tilton made and better than stock.
No issues with bumps disengaging the cruise. I've driven 40k miles or so on mine. The throw is a bit short but I have no issues driving it. I have my pedal so it is maybe an inch above the height of the dead pedal. Makes transitioning from the dead pedal to clutch very natural.
If you install it yourself, take the driver's seat out so you can lay on your back during removal and install of the pedals.
Ive read that installing a tick, when cruise is set, can be disengaged by hitting a bump due to no assist spring.
This isn't really relevant to the master cylinder per se. Cruise control can be disengaged via the upper cruise control switch at the clutch pedal, and this switch is adjustable. It SHOULD be adjusted after changing to a Tick master cylinder. I installed the bigger bore Tick MC, and the pedal sits lower so the upper CC switch wasn't being activated. I did one adjustment so far, and CC is disengaged with the slightest bump to the clutch pedal. Just need to adjust it a little more and it'll be perfect.
I DD on the Tick large-bore MC with what I believe is a stock clutch. It does require a little more effort/concentration. This morning going to/from the grocery store, I was a bit tired and found myself being less smooth on the clutch engagement from a stop. I will be swapping in a LS7 clutch soon and may find myself going to a new OEM MC for easier driveability.
Last edited by MetalMan2; Apr 27, 2020 at 12:32 PM.
I can confirm what the others are saying. I daily drive a tick on an RST clutch and it feels absolutely better than stock. Zero issues ever. Have never lost cruise on any bump. Not hard to use, and no on/off feel whatsoever. But the diameter of the tick master needs to be matched to the clutch. Their base 7/8" is apparently great for the RST while I have been told the optional (you have to ask for it) 3/4" variant is best for the RXT. I have this setup ready to go for my second car. It just isn't on the road yet.
So.. Last night, about 55 miles from home, my clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed. Got out, saw fluid leaking out front my by my firewall. I was fortunately able to get it started again and get to 4th gear, where i had to time lights to not stop!
I see ALOT of controversy over master cylinders. I drive my car, not race. I do not need 'high performance'. Ive read that installing a tick, when cruise is set, can be disengaged by hitting a bump due to no assist spring. I've balso read about the 'throw' range.
Who has experience with these either way? Please chime in!
I extremely do not recommend Tick Master cylinder. My experience: A number of years ago, I decided to have a complete driveline overall done: rebuilt T56 transmission, torque tube overhall, new seals, DTE brace,... the works. Since I don't track the car, I went with a C6 Z06 clutch and flywheel. The Tick master cylinder sounded interesting so I went for it. I immediately regretted it. It required a lot of leg strength and then about 2/3 of the way down, it pressed with little exertion. The worse part was gear shifting...there was a small zone in the excursion path where the clutch engaged. I guess if you track the car, it is good for that, but not for daily driving. I called up Tick Performance and reported this issue because even though I had the master cylinder professionally installed, I thought maybe there was something done wrong. Turned out nothing was installed wrong and Tick wouldn't take their product, which was billed has high quality/bullet proof, back even though I had it on the car for just a few days.
I can't armchair general that situation, but it does make me wonder if whoever installed it for you set the adjustment correctly. It strikes me as odd that there are so many mixed experiences on the same product which has been flawless for me. There is no great science to its manufacture. A very simple part. A straightforward install. But it will try your patience being upside down with a 13mm wrench squeezed in the footwell and I can easily picture an installer putting it in and saying that's good enough and leaving someone who doesn't know to adjust the bar for themselves with headaches.
There again, I have the super easy RST experience with the 7/8. But then for a few days I had to adjust to the grabby RXT with a 7/8 installed by a prior owner where, to be clear, it worked perfectly but did require a little more leg than I was used to. That's why I'm going back and will try the 3/4 as recommended. I will definitely chime in in a few weeks when I have the car running again.
It's funny to sit out here with the heater and the 3/4 pre-installed on the clutch sitting next to me while I write. Lol.
Yes, I still just read polar opposites for the same product. I've also read where there is 7/8" and 3/4" bore.. But, (I may have misinterpreted) I have read where Tick themselves posted they only offer one bore. Regardless, I just keep getting mixed reviews.
in addition, I did remove mine from the car today, it is actually just the line that is bad.
That is strange. The cylinder even has the bore embossed on it.
Lines are cheap and easy. Be sure to clean up and fluid on painted surfaces down there. It will eat the paint if not. I think it can be neutralized with water.
C5Z Clutch Master
