Plastic Headlight Gear Replacement
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Joined: Jul 2020
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Plastic Headlight Gear Replacement
I just wanted to take the time and say that changing the plastic gears to brass ones I ordered off of this forum was quite miserable. It was said to be easy, which it in fact was not very complicated, HOWEVER; it is the most painstaking and aggravating thing I have done with a car in a long time lol. Although the results aren't directly noticeable it was worth the countless hours and agony. I truly am blessed to own this car and cant wait to learn more about it and modify it as I go.
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Pro
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 594
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From: Back in North Central OH
I tried the gear replacement and painstakingly cleaned all the surfaces to be glued. The assembly fell apart just trying to push it into place. I agree with jdmvettte. I just bought a new one to avoid further aggrivation.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Somewhere, Florida
St. Jude Donor '20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Blissfield Michigan
headlight gear
I tried to rotate the gear 180 but found it more difficult than replacing it. I did not have any problem and everything went back ok. I did mark the painted lens covers to get them back to the same spot as when I took them off.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
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From: Western NY
I guess that having the car stored for the winter, has it's advantages, as it gives you time to work on these "projects". I did the brass gear install several years ago, and while it wasn't the easiest job I've ever done, it wasn't all that hard, either.
I removed the entire headlight assembly in a single unit, and then removed the motors. I found that splitting the motor case in half, without breaking it, was the biggest challenge. When re-gluing them back together, I used a large "C" clamp to hold everything in place while the glue set.
I removed the entire headlight assembly in a single unit, and then removed the motors. I found that splitting the motor case in half, without breaking it, was the biggest challenge. When re-gluing them back together, I used a large "C" clamp to hold everything in place while the glue set.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: BEST Corn-Nation
2015 C5 of the Year Winner
I've done mine also but found the job kinda therapeutic. Mine had the 3 bolts so I didn't have to wait the required time before installing them again. I think that's really the key also is having the patience waiting all that time. The longer you wait the better, although I'm not sure what epoxy they send with it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
Definitely not all repair kits are the same, and that needs to be taken into account to minimize frustration 
You can get plastic, aluminum or brass replacement gears. Gears can be solid or shaped like the OEM to accept the rubber damper that interfaces with the output shaft. Some kits just include a gear and a pouch of glue, while others go well beyond that to assure a successful repair.
Plastic and rubber degrade with age and heat. Some people just rotate the motor's gearbox output shaft 180° to use the undamaged section of the plastic gear, but it's important to understand that YMMV... don't expect another 20 years
Considering the way the headlight doors work (hard stops both ways, opening and closing), I like better the gear design that keeps the internal rubber damper. A good kit should include a new one.
Another important component is the steel T-brace with plastic bushing. It is designed to take away the forces (especially when hitting hard the travel ends) from the gearbox plastic cover. Without it, the glue will likely fail.
IMO, Rodney Dickman's kits are the most complete and well thought out sets available.
You can get plastic, aluminum or brass replacement gears. Gears can be solid or shaped like the OEM to accept the rubber damper that interfaces with the output shaft. Some kits just include a gear and a pouch of glue, while others go well beyond that to assure a successful repair.
Plastic and rubber degrade with age and heat. Some people just rotate the motor's gearbox output shaft 180° to use the undamaged section of the plastic gear, but it's important to understand that YMMV... don't expect another 20 years
Considering the way the headlight doors work (hard stops both ways, opening and closing), I like better the gear design that keeps the internal rubber damper. A good kit should include a new one.
Another important component is the steel T-brace with plastic bushing. It is designed to take away the forces (especially when hitting hard the travel ends) from the gearbox plastic cover. Without it, the glue will likely fail.
IMO, Rodney Dickman's kits are the most complete and well thought out sets available.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
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eBay, Amazon, etc. They're only like $40-50. I planned on doing the gear replacement until I looked at the fact that the stock gear and motor lasted 18 years, so why go way out of my way to replace one component of an otherwise 18 year old motor when I could just easily replace the entire thing in less time. I think the gear replacement made more sense years ago when the only other viable option was an expensive OEM motor.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
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From: Western NY
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 20
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Just did mine without any issues. Ordered the 2 plastic gears off of Ebay for $5 each. I am to cheap to go with the brass gears. Problem solved with no noise. I'll
Save my money for fixing some other common problem.
Save my money for fixing some other common problem.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
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From: Miami FL
If yours is a 97 to early 2000, then your motors should have an aluminum gearbox with a removable cover held in place by 3 little screws, therefore you basically could get away with anything.
On the other hand, if you have a late 2000 to 04 with a plastic gearbox and glued cover, and you didn't install a T-Brace with plastic bushing to reinforce the motor after glueing back the cover, then is not a matter of "if" but "when", the glue will fail.
As mentioned above, this is fundamental. It is designed to take away the forces from the gearbox plastic cover, especially each time the motor reaches its travel ends (which are hit very hard).
It can be separately bought, including glue, for $7. Take a look a this for more details.
Last edited by GCG; Jul 9, 2020 at 02:23 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 60
Likes: 29
From: las vegas nv
i have used Rodney Dickman's kits also, very good. i have also used motor assembles from Cardone .Ended up using the kits after the replacement rebuilt ones from Cardone failed.I agree with GCG get the kit with T-brace.
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
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I did this about a month or so ago. Used Rodney Dickman's kit. It wasn't real difficult. Kind of a pain to an extent. In addition to taking the covers off, I took the lights out. Getting the threaded nuts back on those was a bit...challenging, but once I figured out that all I needed was a thinwall deep well socket, a flex universal and the appropriate length extension, it went pretty well. It only took me 1 and a half lights to get that 