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How to Stop The Electrical Gremlins?

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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 09:27 PM
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Default How to Stop The Electrical Gremlins?

Three years ago I developed an electrical starting problem with my 97 C5. I would turn the key without any sound, Wait 2-3 minutes, take the key out several times, it would start right up. Sometimes it would occur every five starts to every twenty starts. Just enough to be a pain in the butt. I'd even take it to the dealer and they could not make it happen. It finally happened at the dealer three months ago. They diagnosed two possible reasons but suggested not to do anything until it becomes a real issue.

Fast forward. So I replaced my battery recently from a group 75 to a 78. I have not had one incident with being unable to start.

Could this really have stopped the issue? I just wanted to share.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 02:45 AM
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Well, from my novice knowledge about electrical issues, on face value it makes sense. More power could possibly cause something to work better. I know it sounds dumb but to me it makes sense

Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Aug 10, 2020 at 04:59 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 02:46 AM
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Im curious about what other electrical issues this could fix

Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Aug 10, 2020 at 04:59 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 05:01 AM
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I guess the battery could have been the problem, but did the dealer suggest a faulty ignition switch could be another possibility.

Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Aug 10, 2020 at 05:02 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 11:18 AM
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What were the two possibilities that the dealer told you?
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MWWarlord
What were the two possibilities that the dealer told you?
"Why don't you upgrade to a new c8? We will throw in complimentary coffee"
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 02:00 PM
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Weak battery can cause all kinds of issues on these cars for sure, I would have guess ignition starting to go out or possibly starter/solenoid but sounds like it must have been a battery issue

You use a tender? If not - start doing so
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 02:27 PM
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IMO

I don't think changing from a group 75 to 78 would change anything. Both should have the same voltage 99% of the time. Amperage should not play into this.

Maybe your old battery had an issuer or the contacts were corroded.

Toys.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 57gman
Fast forward. So I replaced my battery recently from a group 75 to a 78. I have not had one incident with being unable to start.

Could this really have stopped the issue? I just wanted to share.
If I drive my car and keep the battery charged, i never get the "remove key and wait ten seconds" message. If the car sits for a few weeks, that message will pop up the first time I turn the key.

OP's problem sure sounds like a faulty ignition switch. It's a common issue.

Last edited by USAZR1; Aug 10, 2020 at 05:36 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 12:36 PM
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Unless the battery is up to voltage, anything can happen on these cars. When I had the column lock issue, I had a brainstorm and put the car on charge (regular charger, not a tender). Came back later, turned the charger to the boost "start" option, and the column lock released immediately. Just needed that extra hit. Got it permanently fixed then of course.

p.s. I had a slew of odd electrical problems when the car was still under warranty. Finally fixed by replacing the BCM, though I always suspected it was more likely bad contacts or bad grounds than anything else.

Last edited by jackthelad; Aug 11, 2020 at 12:39 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 05:26 PM
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That's interesting cause the battery that's in the car from when I bought it is like a 74 class I believe. Or a 73. Idk I'm not near the car. The zone sells a powerful 78 class with 900 CCA or so. I bet that'll make a difference
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by c4gone
That's interesting cause the battery that's in the car from when I bought it is like a 74 class I believe. Or a 73. Idk I'm not near the car. The zone sells a powerful 78 class with 900 CCA or so. I bet that'll make a difference
IIRC, the original spec (97/98)was for an 850 CCA group 78 battery. One of the reasons I popped for my Sears Platinum all those years ago - it met the spec.
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jackthelad
IIRC, the original spec (97/98)was for an 850 CCA group 78 battery. One of the reasons I popped for my Sears Platinum all those years ago - it met the spec.
Thats great to know. I'll soon change mine out because according to what you're saying, I'm underpowering. I believe mine is at like 650 cca
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 06:50 PM
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I am not an electrical engineer but it seems to me that extra Cold Cranking Amps are good for starting the car - which takes a TON of amps - especially if one were to try to start a C5 that sat outside in -20F weather (not that anyone would do that) - but would make no material difference to other electrical things acting up - or not. Seems to me these other things may well be affected to low voltage due to a bad battery or corrosion/resistance on battery cable and ground contacts. For the average Corvette owner, reserve capacity would be more important than CCA because we tend to let them sit days at a time without driving (and charging) the batteries that are being drained by the relatively high parasitic draw.

Just my 2 cents.

Toys
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Toys4Life C5
I am not an electrical engineer but it seems to me that extra Cold Cranking Amps are good for starting the car - which takes a TON of amps - especially if one were to try to start a C5 that sat outside in -20F weather (not that anyone would do that) - but would make no material difference to other electrical things acting up - or not. Seems to me these other things may well be affected to low voltage due to a bad battery or corrosion/resistance on battery cable and ground contacts. For the average Corvette owner, reserve capacity would be more important than CCA because we tend to let them sit days at a time without driving (and charging) the batteries that are being drained by the relatively high parasitic draw.

Just my 2 cents.

Toys
Good point
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Vetteman Jack
I guess the battery could have been the problem, but did the dealer suggest a faulty ignition switch could be another possibility.
Yes, They did and I did buy it, because of the next sentence, just in case. They said there was another part but its not made any more but they could find it for $1100 bucks. I did not buy that one. Install was $500. I didn't install it but I have it for a rainy day.
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by c4gone
"Why don't you upgrade to a new c8? We will throw in complimentary coffee"
I'm still waiting for the C7 to drop under 30Kt!!
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To How to Stop The Electrical Gremlins?

Old Aug 15, 2020 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by C5Dobie
Weak battery can cause all kinds of issues on these cars for sure, I would have guess ignition starting to go out or possibly starter/solenoid but sounds like it must have been a battery issue

You use a tender? If not - start doing so
I use a tender but only when I stop driving it in from Dec to March. I drive it weekly if not more. Do I still need to use a tender during the summer?
If the weather is nice, my DD sits all weekend long and now even more. I haven't had the top on in weeks!

Last edited by 57gman; Aug 15, 2020 at 08:10 AM. Reason: Typ
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 08:20 AM
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I'll tell y'all what I'm incurring, right after I did my plugs dn wires, the ebcm stuff has started with the lights on the dash for check active, check traction and no abs. Right after I did my plugs. Can y'all explain that nightmare
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 08:50 AM
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IMO - Unless you disturbed a wiring harness or ground, I cannot and would say it is a coincidence. There are many issues that can cause the messages you received. I would pull the coded from the DIC and then search CF for threads about this as it is fairly common to start to troubleshoot it (if you are the hands on type). If not, find a local C5 guy.
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