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I'm guessing that you don't have a garage? You could consider a self storage facility (I'm sure there are several in your area). Make sure you let them know that you're planning to store a car. Regardless of where you store it, you'll want to use Seafoam, Stabil, or some other fuel stabilizer. If you can, I would go start it and run it for at least 10 minutes a week or so. You'll also want to move it a bit so you don't get flat spots on the tires. If you are not able to do this, then that changes things a bit. If the car isn't going to move at all. I would remove the battery and keep it on a tender at home. I would also put the car on jack stands so there's no weight on the tires. Also, find a nice indoor car cover. Be sure that you change the oil and let everything warm up and circulate really well before driving it again. Just be aware that these cars prefer to be driven. Leaving it undriven for months at a time can cause issues.
I'm guessing that you don't have a garage? You could consider a self storage facility (I'm sure there are several in your area). Make sure you let them know that you're planning to store a car. Regardless of where you store it, you'll want to use Seafoam, Stabil, or some other fuel stabilizer. If you can, I would go start it and run it for at least 10 minutes a week or so. You'll also want to move it a bit so you don't get flat spots on the tires. If you are not able to do this, then that changes things a bit. If the car isn't going to move at all. I would remove the battery and keep it on a tender at home. I would also put the car on jack stands so there's no weight on the tires. Also, find a nice indoor car cover. Be sure that you change the oil and let everything warm up and circulate really well before driving it again. Just be aware that these cars prefer to be driven. Leaving it undriven for months at a time can cause issues.
I agree with adding Stabil, Seafoam or some type of stabilizer. Change your oil just before storage. Starting your car up for a few minutes a week will result in moisture in your oil. If you run it make sure the engine gets to normal operating temperature for at least a half hour to boil away moisture in the oil. If you do not change oil you run the risk of having acids in the oil, combine that with a little moisture and you could end up with a pitted crankshaft. Modern tires are very resistant to flat spotting, manufacturers no longer recommend putting stored cars on jack stands. There are two trains of thought about whether you should change oil again in the spring. I do not. Marine mechanics in the northern climates are much more knowledgeable than most auto mechanics when it comes to prepping engines for storage.
I’ve been storing at least 2 cars for the winter for the last 20 years, agree 100% on filling the tanks and adding Stabil or something similar to the tank.
I NEVER start the cars once they are in storage until I’m ready to take them out of storage, unless you can drive the car for 30 plus minutes starting does more damage then letting them sit.
I leave the batteries in the car on tenders 24/7 for the duration of the storage.
Putting the cars on stands does more damage to the suspension then any possibility of flat spots. As a previous poster mentioned modern tires do not flat spot like tires of old.
I have never had a problem following g this procedure.
Last edited by Nabcoinc; Sep 15, 2020 at 06:50 PM.
Yanni2004,
I see you are in Simsbury. I'm in Granby and I will store my Vette At the storage facility in New Hartford on Rt 44. It's heated and has power.
Ha! Not recommended just now; Covid is raging, the drivers are generally distracted and reckless, roads are terrible and snowbirds will compound the driving issues. Been here 36 years... trust me! Otherwise, beautiful weather will soon arrive, so ...
When I had a boat I learned a lot about how to winter storage it in my back yard. Here is my adaptation for storing cars for 3-5 months.. (inside but cold)
- change oil (prevents acid etching bearings)
- run gas tank low and then fill with 93 octane and stabil.
- Overinflate the tires to 45psi (helps prevent flat spots)
- Turn HVAC off (before turning car off to help all dashpots go to their nominal position)
- Battery tender -or- remove battery and keep it in a warmer place (cold temps kill lead acid batteries)
- If there is risk of rodents or bugs.. plug all openings. (see below)
- **if** you have to leave it for 6+ months
- Do all things mentioned above plus these
- Plug exhaust pipes
- Plug intake openings
- cover HVAC intake grates
- plug the drain udders (on each side of the firewall)
- remove all spark plugs and spray marine grade fogging oil inside cylinders. Put plugs back in 2-3 turns, do not connect wires, and put a sign on the steering wheel saying plugs are not tight. When ready to get out of storage, remove plugs, crank engine over for 2-3 seconds and then reconnect plugs and wires.
If storing more than 1yr.. I'd run stabil through the engine for a while then drain all gas from the tank. When ready to restart I'd fill with fresh gas and a bottle of techron.
In mid Ohio we get enough clear days and the roads are generally salt free that I don't really winterize my car. I simply plug the battery into a battery tender and every 2-4 weeks start it up and drive a few miles.(if the roads are clear)
Last edited by wydopnthrtl; Sep 20, 2020 at 03:48 PM.