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Old Jan 3, 2021 | 08:35 PM
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Default salt damage

Hey folks - thanks so much for the responses, as a 54 year old computer geek I am still amazed at how much easier it is to learn things than it was before the internet. Or even Fidonet, for those who were into computers before then.

This car sat at the beach for 3 years and didn't move. How do I fix this so it can be considered a solid car again? One person said use steel wool and then some kind of anti rust protectant but the fact is it won't be in that environment again - the car is now in Las Vegas where it rarely rains, much less has any appreciable humidity.

I also considered taking each quadrant of the car apart and PB-Blaster all the nuts and bolts, scrub them clean along with anything I cannot remove and put it back together.

ALSO - lots of body panel alignment issues (headlight covers and quarter panel clearance with hood and door), but no issues with paint. Almost seems like its been taken apart on the outside only, but carfax says no accidents and previous owner cops to nothing like that. Is that a warning sign it's been wrecked or do people take the panels off for some reason?

Thank you!




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Old Jan 3, 2021 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by alanluck
ALSO - lots of body panel alignment issues (headlight covers and quarter panel clearance with hood and door), but no issues with paint. Almost seems like its been taken apart on the outside only, but carfax says no accidents and previous owner cops to nothing like that. Is that a warning sign it's been wrecked or do people take the panels off for some reason?
It sounds like you have the right idea with the rust, sand it off, power wash it, seal it but I've never done anything like that. Only thing that looks that bad to me is the tie rod or whatever that is. As for the alignment issues, I believe they are pretty common with the headlights in particular but it looks like a pretty straightforward job (fiddling with some adjustment screws). I'm going to be tackling my headlight gap when my new lights arrive so I've already done the research and have the thread/video for you: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...alignment.html

Last edited by LSgoBRRR; Jan 3, 2021 at 10:07 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 08:15 AM
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You have a real project ahead. My '72 had considerable rust underneath. I took it to a well respected body shop and he suggest 'sand' blasting the rust. After explaining what he was going to do using special material in the blasting, I went for it. It turned out great. I applied a sealer then paint. When I sold the car in '94, the new owner could not believe the underneath.
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by rrwirsi
You have a real project ahead. My '72 had considerable rust underneath. I took it to a well respected body shop and he suggest 'sand' blasting the rust. After explaining what he was going to do using special material in the blasting, I went for it. It turned out great. I applied a sealer then paint. When I sold the car in '94, the new owner could not believe the underneath.
I agree about the "quite a project" statement. That is true with just the mechanical things OP is seeing, I'd be even more concerned with the things he CAN'T see! With the C5 being such a huge electronics dependent vehicle, I think this will wind up with an awful lot of problems and as a result, a huge money pit. Sorry. I'm from the rust belt. 3 years of sitting in the ocean salt mist would be like around 1,100 days straight!!! I wish the OP luck........
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 10:40 AM
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Salt is a bitch. It ruins everything it touches. This is why, even when the roads are dry in the winter, I don't drive my collector cars...the salt dust gets into everything. Later, when the humidity comes around in the summer, the rust begins. Best of luck...post up what you do and how it comes out.
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 4XLR8N
Salt is a bitch. It ruins everything it touches. This is why, even when the roads are dry in the winter, I don't drive my collector cars...the salt dust gets into everything. Later, when the humidity comes around in the summer, the rust begins. Best of luck...post up what you do and how it comes out.
Yep, I've never driven any of my toy cars, or motorcycles on the roads after they've been salted, until we get a good hard rain to wash it all away. My wife's daily driver gets cleaned routinely throughout the winter, including taking it through a brushless car wash that has an undercarriage spray to keep the salt off as much as possible. My 418K mile Corolla gets washed when I drive it in the rain...
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 12:34 PM
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Default Critical first

I feel you here. I just got a project C4 that spent its entire life in a coastal city in New Jersey. I expected issues.

The hard fuel lines and steel brake lines would be my concern due to rust. One of the steel brake lines (“brake pipes” is the technical name) actually failed on me and blew out from excessive rust where a keeper bracket bolted it to the frame.

The steel brake lines are a major concern, so I got an entire set from a no-rust donor vehicle.

I am not sure if the C5 tanks are steel or polymer. Someone here surely knows, but the C4 tank on my project is getting replaced next.

If I were you, I would carefully examine the brake and fuel lines first. You need to have good brakes and don’t want fuel blowing out of a pressurized line!

Great looking car. I absolutely love my 99. Looks worthy of your time.

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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DWAVette
I feel you here. I just got a project C4 that spent its entire life in a coastal city in New Jersey. I expected issues.

The hard fuel lines and steel brake lines would be my concern due to rust. One of the steel brake lines (“brake pipes” is the technical name) actually failed on me and blew out from excessive rust where a keeper bracket bolted it to the frame.

The steel brake lines are a major concern, so I got an entire set from a no-rust donor vehicle.

I am not sure if the C5 tanks are steel or polymer. Someone here surely knows, but the C4 tank on my project is getting replaced next.

If I were you, I would carefully examine the brake and fuel lines first. You need to have good brakes and don’t want fuel blowing out of a pressurized line!

Great looking car. I absolutely love my 99. Looks worthy of your time.
C5 fuel tanks won't rust, they're plastic......
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 05:28 PM
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Default Tanks

Originally Posted by grinder11
C5 fuel tanks won't rust, they're plastic......
That’s good news then. Replacing a fuel tank in a C4 is a PIA for sure! The C5 has dual tanks, so I guess that would be double PIA.

Are the fuel lines on the C5 steel or some other material?
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 06:01 PM
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Looks like any 8 year old + MN car - except the Corvette. No one drives them here in the winter so 98% are super clean underneath.
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Toys4Life C5
Looks like any 8 year old + MN car - except the Corvette. No one drives them here in the winter so 98% are super clean underneath.
Someone said sandblasting so I'll look into that, but I might enjoy taking it all apart and scrubbing the rust off each piece.

The tires are Continental ExtremeContacts and I understand they *cannot* be driven in freezing weather or it will ruin the compound. This baby has to stay in the sun. :-)

Thanks!
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by alanluck
Someone said sandblasting so I'll look into that, but I might enjoy taking it all apart and scrubbing the rust off each piece.

The tires are Continental ExtremeContacts and I understand they *cannot* be driven in freezing weather or it will ruin the compound. This baby has to stay in the sun. :-)

Thanks!
Ironically I just did some sandblasting yesterday on a steering knuckle for another project car I have. Takes time, gets sand everywhere, is harmful to breath in, but EFFECTIVE.


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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 09:34 AM
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Toys4Life C5 - great job with the sandblasting. The part looks like new.
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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 11:01 AM
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A lot of the problem parts can simply be replaced. However the nuts, bolts, etc you can clean them up but you wont get to the threads. You would almost have to take everything apart, clean it, then put it back together. If not down the road you might run into issues when you try to take them apart. I guess its a matter of how much time do you want to spend?
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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 12:28 PM
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Buy a few cans of WD40 get under car and spray everything that is rusty, except around brakes and exhaust?

Wouldn't want exhaust to start making fumes or fire, next time you start it and it heats up.

I looked and rust o leum has a rust eater/converter spray gel, but WD40 might be easier to spray.

Maybe put big pieces of cardboard under car so when WD40 drips off it doesn't stain driveway or your garage.



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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 12:38 PM
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 07:08 PM
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None of the stuff pictured is structurally compromised and can simply be replaced as previously stated. My much bigger concern would be the frame. Likely not structurally compromised, but does it look as shitty as the piddly parts?
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 07:29 PM
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Rust never sleeps. Over the years I have purchased a few dozen rust free southern cars and repowered them with drive trains from rusty cars I got cheap from the salt belt in New England. Fortunately much of the C5 is aluminum and composite material but I'd wash it up and sell this one before investing time and money in this restoration. Chemicals, sand blasting and painting only slow down the never ending oxidation. Good luck!
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 03:22 AM
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Look into dry ice blasting and it’s effects. Can pro clean up 90% without taking it all apart
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ls777z
A lot of the problem parts can simply be replaced. However the nuts, bolts, etc you can clean them up but you wont get to the threads. You would almost have to take everything apart, clean it, then put it back together. If not down the road you might run into issues when you try to take them apart. I guess its a matter of how much time do you want to spend?
A wire brush works great on rusty threads.
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