Calling on some help with my engine build. Here’s what I’ve ordered so far.
TSP 228R 228/228 .600/.600 114 LSA
7.400 pushrod length
Dual valve springs w/ titanium retainers and one piece seals
LS7 lifters
241 stock cylinder head
Melling HV oil pump
ATI super damper OEM drive%
LS2 timing chain
I’m wanting to replace the stock rockers with roller rockers. Is there something that I’ve currently ordered that will cause an issue with the build? Pushrod Length correct? Rocker suggestions? Do I save and replace the heads or can I get by short term with the 241s?
Ive got no issues doing the work but my problems lye with my lack of knowledge piecing the right components together.

 

I think I would have done the HP instead of HV oil pump. As for heads, even if you had them ported they will prob at best flow what 243/799 heads do originally (maybe a touch better). Push rods should ideally be measured after heads are bolted down with the lifters installed I learned. Stock rockers are fine but at least need the trunnion upgrade. Dont forget the oil barbell and rear main if you have the engine accessible.

 

Also yes dual VS add a little comfort on a breaking valve spring but they are overkill for the 228R, the PAC beehives are good for that cam.

Katechs C5R chain is a better chain than the Ls2 but you should be good on that. Replace the cam retainer plate that has the seal in it.

 

I believe you made a good choice on the HV pump. A lot of guys go with HP pumps, when stock pressure is just fine, and don't sap horsepower to make that increased pressure. I've been running a Melling HV in the built LS7 in my C5 for years. Since my block has piston oil squirters, they tend to bleed pressure at low rpm. I wanted to increase volume due to the squirter. I have approximately 32-35lbs at idle hot, goes up to 45lbs at cruise, and hits 60lbs at higher rpm. Without the squirters, HV will be fine. When any wear does take place, you'll be fine, because the engine is getting all the oil flow it needs. You don't need 55lbs of pressure at idle, or 1,500 rpm. It just makes the engine work harder driving the pump.....

 

I have always run stock rockers. Solid, lightweight design. I agree with the other post, you should probably wait until final assembly and measure for the correct pushrod length then. The 241s will work, but I think, if it was me, I'd go for at least stock LS6 heads. One thing I would've done differently than you have, and I did do, is run a 25% under drive balancer. They do free up some horsepower. 10% isn't enough difference, at least in my honest opinion. Going with a 25% under drive, you may, or may not, need a better radiator than OEM. I'm also a dual valvespring guy. Just curious, what springs did you go with? Best of luck to you on your build.....

 

My concern on HV is the sucking the pick up dry in an event that may cause oil to move the wrong way in the pan. Finding a good set of 243/799 heads would definitely be a better choice and adding a LS6 intake manifold. Im also not saying the springs you have will not work, its just the 228 cam is a little small for them and they are VERY hard to actuate. All this is from what I learned during my build the first and then the second time. Also dont use LS7 “style” lifters, use LS7 lifters or go with Johnston. Have a summit branded LS7 “style” lifter let go 600 miles after install of a 228R cam, PAC dual springs, and a melling HV pump.

 

I have never sucked my pan dry. An HV pump won't move any more oil than stock, if at the same pressure as stock. Pressure is pressure. Within the same engine, with clearances the same for both the HV and HP, a Hi Pressure pump will move more oil thru the engine, because it's pumping higher pressure through the same clearances. A HV pump shouldn't pump any more oil through the engine than a stock pump, given the same clearances as the stock pump. But it will continue to supply stock pressure values even as the clearances open up due to wear, because of the higher volume. In my case, I ran the HV pump because I have piston oilers in my LS7 block, which bleed off oil pressure. If I didn't have the squirters, I would be running a stock pump. My LS7 has been converted to wet sump w/Batwing pan, because it's been retrofitted to my 2000 C5. I was once a big fan of HV and HP pumps, but today's engine builders are starting to shy away from them, due to unnecessary expense, and the better quality of OEM pumps. When my LS7 was first built, it actually came with a GM pump, I think the one for VVT? Anyway, it was damaged when my motor are a lifter, and fine metal shavings went through it. So I rebuilt my 16 year old Melling HV pump, and it has been fine for 24,000 miles. I've had the car over 150mph, and no pumping the pan dry. I think where people get into trouble is they get both a HV and HP pump. I can see where that could conceivably pump a lot of oil out of the pan. All this is just my opinion, mixed with some actual experiences.

 

I'm also running PAC dual springs! You are right about the LS6 intake, I had one of those myself.

 

Here’s the spring kit I picked up
TSP .660" Dual Spring Kit w/ Integrated One-Piece Seat & Seal, Titanium Retainers, PAC Springs #199-ISSPACPOL660SpringKit

 

The lifters are OEM genuine LS7. I’ve also got retainer plate and new barbell coming.
I also plan on adding LG street headers with the off-road Xpipe. Intake is on the list just haven’t pulled the trigger. I’d been looking at the Fast 92mm but finding an LS2 throttle body has been tough. Do u need to run a larger TB with the LS6 intake? I guess my next question is injectors. Will the stock injectors provide enough fuel?

 

I’m replacing my 294,000 engine. I went Ls1 cam’d with 706 heads. But have the same questions you do so I’ll be anxious to read replies.

 

I never ran my LS6 intake on a modded engine. When I went to the modded engine, I went with a 90mm FAST (no longer made?), and a 90mm LS2 TB. IIRC, it was a 3 bolt design that is not easy to find nowadays. I don't think the 90mm TB will make much diff on an LS6 intake. But it will on the FAST. If you can't find the LS2 TB, Im sure there are companies who make a conversion harness to a 90mm LS3 TB. I have a conversion harness on my LS1 wiring harness that allows a hookup to an LS7 TB, which is also 90mm. I don't know what you'll be running for a mass air sensor, but I'd go with at least the 85mm LS6 MAF. As for injector size, they may work with increased duty cycle, and/or increased pressure, but if you go with LS6 ported heads and the cam you mentioned, you'll be on the ragged edge. If they'll even flow enough, you'll probably be near 95%+ duty cycle. Call some potential tuners in your area. My gut feeling is they'll want to increase injector size. BTW, I am still running the 85mm LS6 MAF on my LS7, and I'm making just over 500whp, so it should definitely be big enough for your combo. Sure, I might gain 5-10whp by going to a 100mm MAF sensor. But I'm 67 years old, and don't need any more than I have now. Heck, it won't hook now, unless I'd go to a drag radial. Hope this helps.......

 

The LG headers are an excellent choice. I have Kooks, because 16 years ago, they were one of a very few companies making a 1-7/8 header.......

 

If you can find a silver blade LS2 TB go with a FAST 92. Injectors will be pushing it on OE for what you wanna do if you have it all done right, something in the 30s or even 42lb injectors would be better. For heads I would check out Texas Speeds CNC’d 243 heads or a set of PRC from them. The 228R, a good flowing head set up, a FAST 92 with TB, tune, CAI, and long tubes will be good for around 420-440 HP to the tire in a stick car. Need a clutch set also if a manual.

 

I agree with you on that on TSP 243 heads, too. OP, IDK if they're still available, but back 15 years ago a lot of us LS guys went with Fords SVO 30lb injectors. They worked great, were low priced for a set of 8, and that 30lb rating was at 3 bar. The C5s use 4 bar pumps. So 30lb@3 bar=about 40lbs@4 bar. I believe the EV hook up on the injector harness is the same, so they'd be plug and play, electrically. Obviously, you'll need a tune, as well.

 

I’ll need to do some research on injectors. I’m also checking around here in the KC area for a good tuner once I get all this work done.Can’t wait for the parts to start rolling in so I can get to work. Still on the fence with the heads. I know I want them swapped out so I may just save the pennies and get a set before tearing it down.

 

I researched ditching the stock roller trunnions a few years back and to my surprise, the research I did convinced me that the most popular aftermarket ones were probably more likely to fail than the stockers with the exception of the bushing (not needle) bearing style.

There are a zillion LS roller rockers out there and you hear about every last one of them that fail - but as a percentage of the whole it is a very small number.

I know there will be some strong disagreement over this (and that is fine) - at the end of the day you have to make up your own mind.

 

So you’re saying just running the stock rockers without the trunnions upgrade is the way to go, based on the research you did?
I know growing up around SB Chevy builds, roller was always the way everyone wanted to go. Being I’ve got 100k on the C5 I’m doubting I leave the original rockers on the heads. There are tons of roller options. If I do go roller I’ll go with a brand name I’m comfortable with.

 

The FAST 92 has always been my plan but finding the LS2 TB has been a problem. It doesn’t appear there’s even an aftermarket option that works on the C5.

 

That's cool. b/t/w the stock rockers have roller fulcrums - which I believe is where most of the friction is.