When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have an 02 couple with 57xxx miles on the clock. The car is bone stock except for an aftermarket CAI. Oil is changed once every season no matter what. Plugs, wires belts, timing chain, fuel filters, transmission fluid, filters, gaskets and seals etc are all original to the car. Is there anything that I should change? I am having no issues with the car, but I wanted to make sure that I am doing all that I can to keep it running strong.
You'll want all new fluids (and corresponding filters), and check the brake pads for wear. You will also want to check the serpentine belt.
I forgot to mention I did the breaks a couple of seasons ago so those are good to go. Now a quick question about the Serpentine Belt. When I start the car after it has been sitting for about a week or so I hear this "squeaking" under the hood. After about 5 minutes of driving the squeaking goes away. Could this be the serpentine belt and pully?
A bad belt can certainly be the cause of a squealing sound under the hood. I just remembered, you should also check to make sure that your harmonic balancer isn't wobbling.
Could be. Check physical condition of the belt. Don't use any gimmicky belt dressing products on it. Inspect the harmonic balancer for play as well - very common source of squeaks and noises on belts on these cars at this age.
I would leave the plugs and wires alone with 57k miles, personally. Zero reason to open the motor up and look inside if it isn't making noises/exhibiting symptoms. Both of the LS cars in my household have high miles (215k on our 02 Escalade, 271k on the Corvette before the motor was murdered by a flood) with minimal issues.
Could be. Check physical condition of the belt. Don't use any gimmicky belt dressing products on it. Inspect the harmonic balancer for play as well - very common source of squeaks and noises on belts on these cars at this age.
I would leave the plugs and wires alone with 57k miles, personally. Zero reason to open the motor up and look inside if it isn't making noises/exhibiting symptoms. Both of the LS cars in my household have high miles (215k on our 02 Escalade, 271k on the Corvette before the motor was murdered by a flood) with minimal issues.
Could be. Check physical condition of the belt. Don't use any gimmicky belt dressing products on it. Inspect the harmonic balancer for play as well - very common source of squeaks and noises on belts on these cars at this age.
I would leave the plugs and wires alone with 57k miles, personally. Zero reason to open the motor up and look inside if it isn't making noises/exhibiting symptoms. Both of the LS cars in my household have high miles (215k on our 02 Escalade, 271k on the Corvette before the motor was murdered by a flood) with minimal issues.
Thank you for that. I def don't use any of those so called belt dressings. I will look into the belts and the balancer as well.
Could be. Check physical condition of the belt. Don't use any gimmicky belt dressing products on it. Inspect the harmonic balancer for play as well - very common source of squeaks and noises on belts on these cars at this age.
I would leave the plugs and wires alone with 57k miles, personally. Zero reason to open the motor up and look inside if it isn't making noises/exhibiting symptoms. Both of the LS cars in my household have high miles (215k on our 02 Escalade, 271k on the Corvette before the motor was murdered by a flood) with minimal issues.
Also, I know the harmonic balancer is not an expensive part. But since its down by the crank, and labor intensive what's a usually harmonic balancer job cost?
A good replacement without the two piece rubber design will run you about $200 (Powerbond, Summit, TrickFlow) and labor... well that one I can't speak to. I had a buddy do it for me and he was cheap.
Plugs and zo6 wires you will not beleive the difference
If the car came with Iridium plugs, he's probably OK@57,000. I also have a CTS AWD, came with Iridium plugs. Supposed to last 100,000 miles. They did. But the last 5,000 miles the cars fuel mileage was slightly down, at least 3mpg average around town. But it was about normal on the highway. When I changed them@104,000 miles, they looked perfect. Gap was as new@.038"-.040". But mileage has gone up better than ever!! So it was time for the change. OP-1 thing I would definitely do is buy a bottle of dry gas, wait until car is under 1/4 tank, and dump the dry gas in at a gas station, then top off the tank(s). My C5 started cutting out at higher rpm@full throttle. I suspected some water in the tank(s), and the drygas fixed the problem. You probably don't know the kind of fuel the PO used thru the years. I recommend Top Tier Premium, Shell, Chevron, BP, etc. Drygas is cheap, and can't hurt. Best of luck to you......
If the car came with Iridium plugs, he's probably OK@57,000. I also have a CTS AWD, came with Iridium plugs. Supposed to last 100,000 miles. They did. But the last 5,000 miles the cars fuel mileage was slightly down, at least 3mpg average around town. But it was about normal on the highway. When I changed them@104,000 miles, they looked perfect. Gap was as new@.038"-.040". But mileage has gone up better than ever!! So it was time for the change. OP-1 thing I would definitely do is buy a bottle of dry gas, wait until car is under 1/4 tank, and dump the dry gas in at a gas station, then top off the tank(s). My C5 started cutting out at higher rpm@full throttle. I suspected some water in the tank(s), and the drygas fixed the problem. You probably don't know the kind of fuel the PO used thru the years. I recommend Top Tier Premium, Shell, Chevron, BP, etc. Drygas is cheap, and can't hurt. Best of luck to you......
Thank you for that tip. I have owned the car since 03 and bought it with 8600 miles on it.
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
If you do not know when the fluids were changed, definitely do the brake fluid and coolant. Check all your belts/hoses (including brake lines) and make sure the tires are not excessively old.
If you do not know when the fluids were changed, definitely do the brake fluid and coolant. Check all your belts/hoses (including brake lines) and make sure the tires are not excessively old.
Thanks for that. I have never changed the fluids in the car. Tires are brand new, just put them on 2 years ago.
I have an 02 couple with 57xxx miles on the clock. The car is bone stock except for an aftermarket CAI. Oil is changed once every season no matter what. Plugs, wires belts, timing chain, fuel filters, transmission fluid, filters, gaskets and seals etc are all original to the car. Is there anything that I should change? I am having no issues with the car, but I wanted to make sure that I am doing all that I can to keep it running strong.
J
Oil and air filter omitted ...
Check your spark plug wires just to ensure they're not dry rotted or cracked - if they feel stiff and dry then change them.
All fluids - coolant, rear differential, steering, brakes, transmission.
Filters - fuel, transmission.
Check all hoses for damage or failure.
Grease all hinges and latches - I use a lithium spray.
Wipe down weatherstripping and apply silicone grease as a protectant.
Check rain ducts aka udders - plenty of YouTube videos with instructions.
Inspect battery - battery acid is bad because of neighboring electrical components.
Squeaky belt - I'd probably replace belt & tensioner. If squeal remains, take to mechanic.
Check tires for dry rot - if they're original 20 year old tires, I'd have them changed.
Many people simply wipe down interior plastics with a damp rag. I prefer 303 Protectant for plastics that are looking dry.
Mild saddle soap on leather if needed.
If the car is going to sit for a while, use fuel stabilizer before filling the tank and drive around a bit so it mixes with the fuel.
Make sure the area under the mesh windshield cowl is clean and clear of debris.
Thank you for that tip. I have owned the car since 03 and bought it with 8600 miles on it.
On my trip to Michigan from Florida, I spied a C8 on US 23 South of Brighton, Michigan. It was wearing camouflage, with a manufacturer's plate. A young, shirt and tie engineer was driving. I pulled up even with him in the slow lane, he was in left lane. No matter what I did, he wouldn't bite on a 70-100mph race, even though there was virtually no traffic. So I decided to take off full bore from about 65-110. My C5 started missing here and there over 5,000rpm. Good thing for me he didn't want to race, though I probably would've won. Who knows, I might've seen a "ZORA" in disguise, and may have had my posterior rearranged up by my shoulders!!! But it wouldn't have been an accurate representation of what my car could've done. I'm assuming he was recording data, and his boss may not have been pleased to see a full bore run to 100+mph!!
Grinder11, you're breaking my heart with all that US23 and Brighton talk! (I'm from A2 living in Flo now, with a C5)
Where is A2? Did you mean "there too"? Anyway, yeah, coming up beside a C8, and wanting to race him, is a Helluva time to find out your built LS7 starts bucking and missing over 5,000rpm!!! Wife was behind me in her CTS. She said later "I've never seen your car take off like that before"! I've got news for her, but I don't think I'm gonna spill those beans with her around!!
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.