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I am facing the new water pump issue today. I had an overheating problem back a few months ago and after changing the thermostat (Thinking this might be my issue and cheapest solution) it still ran hot. After further research here on this forum i realized that the radiator may be blocked up with debris. While i was experiencing COVID i still was able to remove the radiator for further inspection and to my shock i could not even see through it. I was not going to try to clean it while still under the hood i did not think i could clean it well enough while being under the hood. I cleaned it with compressed air and a limited amount of high water pressure I was able to really shine it up so to speak and also cleaned out the AC condenser which was easy when the radiator was not in the way. (did not remove it) Well i thought for a few days about putting a 20 yr old radiator back in and decided what the hell I will buy a new one. Mine required the large diameter inverted fittings for the transmission lines and the only choice I had for under about $700 was a new Delco stock one. So I decided that i would have to shell out $400 for this one. When it arrived I was at the end of the COVID symptoms and i was feeling pretty good and installed it back in about two hours by myself. Prior to installing it I had checked both fans and all the relays to insure all was in working order in which all was good. Recharged the cooling system and everything was working perfectly. I failed to mention the the new thermostat has the stock operating temp at 187. After about two months I arrived home after a good long drive I noticed a small coolant drip (salad plate size) under the center driver side of the engine. I have been trying to trace it from where it originates but damn near impossible. I have used mirrors lights and still can not see from where it originates. Reading here in this forum it seems to be a common problem that the water pump gaskets are notorious for some seepage. I can see all around the center of the water pump and nothing is wet there and all the hose connections are dry to the touch. I am going to take a chance and replace the water pump including using a metal gasket and new bolts. I want to use an AC Delco water pump but I see it is now made in China and that makes me suspect of its quality. I am asking all in this forum what is my best course of action should I use the AC Delco or is there something better than that one that does not cost a fortune. I will be performing the work myself. I failed to mention that the mileage is right at 75000. Thanks in advance for any input and it is greatly appreciated and sorry this post is so long. Thanks again..
Will give this a try and i just researched the torque values at 22 ft lbs There are 6 10mm bolts I will double check but I think that is the 6 bolts size. At least this will cost nothing and nothing to lose but a little time.
Last edited by Marco 1976; Aug 23, 2021 at 11:16 PM.
Lifetime warranty and cheap = replacing them for a lifetime.
Try and get the best quality one you can....maybe they arent made here but thats not something to skimp on if you can help it.
on my 5.3 my WP gaskets started seeping ,guess there was a bulletin on it not sure about the LS1.
Went ahead and put an ACDelco on it. 188k and its just now starting to make a little noise, not bad.
Maybe 40 years ago.... but I'd bet you that "AC Delco" pump and the one from the parts store are the exact same part in different boxes. It will be fine. lol
That's a new one on me, Stingroo!! Every water pump I've seen on the LS1/LS6 engines has had an O-ring bonded to metal.....
My all original 26k miles 1997 LS1 had the paper gaskets and holy crap they were a bugger to get off without damaging the block. I went back together with the oring gaskets. I'm pretty sure the newer LS engines have oring gaskets from the factory but I don't know when that started. I know my 06 LS2 had oring gaskets factory.
My all original 26k miles 1997 LS1 had the paper gaskets and holy crap they were a bugger to get off without damaging the block. I went back together with the oring gaskets. I'm pretty sure the newer LS engines have oring gaskets from the factory but I don't know when that started. I know my 06 LS2 had oring gaskets factory.
Everything posted above is correct. The drivers side gasket was a problem to get scraped off and I also replaced the gaskets with newer o-ring type. Reassembly is a bit easier if you tack the gaskets to the pump with rtv and let it dry first.
On all 1993 and up Ford engine components have a true worm trail machined/casted/provision in all bolt on components with the rubber/viton O-ring/gasket. No paper/O-ring gaskets used. I was ‘guessing’ GM did the same.
Last edited by I’m Z one; Aug 24, 2021 at 07:33 PM.
Yeah new ones probably come with the gaskets. FelPro makes them, too. The parts store pump I got had metal gaskets if I remember correctly.... been about a year since I did it.
I maybe wrong but there is a good chance the WP along with other bolt ones to the block are O rings. Try tightening them to OEM specs first.
Going to try tightening the 6 10mm bolts to 22 ft lbs hopefully this will work I hate working on a vehicle in this extreme heat. It is just a slow leak and if I drove a lot it would be a problem but it is just driven basically on Sundays. The temps are at about 195ish I am keeping a constant eye of the coolant level. So this project can probably wait till the weather improves if the tightening of the bolts do not remedy this.
Last edited by Marco 1976; Aug 24, 2021 at 09:56 PM.
Ugh, as a Floridian I completely feel you on that one. Projects from May to September are like "Will this keep me from driving the car? Is it worth the three gallons of sweat this will produce? Am I going to die?" If at least two of those aren't checked, it can wait.
I just replaced a WP on a 2002 Z06 this past week. Napa Water pump came with metal & O-ring gaskets. Pretty easy job actually. Luckily the one I took off had metal/o-ring gaskets too so I didn't have to break out a fresh blade razor scraper.