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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 06:53 PM
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Default Supercharger or Not

I know nothing about superchargers other than they are pricey. I'm looking to purchase a 2003 Z06 with a Vortech V2 Supercharger. The car has 21xxx miles on it. I'm a little worried that the supercharger will severely limit engine life. As in, when something goes wrong it'll be a BOOM instead of a tick tick tick or some similar fix. I have no intentions of racing it, just want it for my selfish pleasure. In the "Old Days" superchargers, turbos and the like meant new engine time when anything went wrong. I plan on keeping the vette 'till I'm dead, so I'd really like it to last. Ant opinions or experiences out there? Thanks!
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Sep 20, 2021, 07:46 PM
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Driven responsibly and maintained accordingly your engine has a chance of living it's normal lifespan.

If the tune is aggressive that can shorten life real quick. If it's tuned to be friendly but still make power it will be fine.

If it's tuned to make power and you race it at the drag strip every weekend you will probably be going through the motor once every couple years if it makes real power.

If I were buying a blower car from someone I didn't know I would want to do a leakdown check and an Oil pressure check and maybe even look inside the oil filter just for peace of mind.

It's always a tough call when you didn't build it yourself or know its history.

Old Sep 20, 2021 | 07:46 PM
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Driven responsibly and maintained accordingly your engine has a chance of living it's normal lifespan.

If the tune is aggressive that can shorten life real quick. If it's tuned to be friendly but still make power it will be fine.

If it's tuned to make power and you race it at the drag strip every weekend you will probably be going through the motor once every couple years if it makes real power.

If I were buying a blower car from someone I didn't know I would want to do a leakdown check and an Oil pressure check and maybe even look inside the oil filter just for peace of mind.

It's always a tough call when you didn't build it yourself or know its history.

Old Sep 20, 2021 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Black
Driven responsibly and maintained accordingly your engine has a chance of living it's normal lifespan.

If the tune is aggressive that can shorten life real quick. If it's tuned to be friendly but still make power it will be fine.

If it's tuned to make power and you race it at the drag strip every weekend you will probably be going through the motor once every couple years if it makes real power.

If I were buying a blower car from someone I didn't know I would want to do a leakdown check and an Oil pressure check and maybe even look inside the oil filter just for peace of mind.

It's always a tough call when you didn't build it yourself or know its history.

Great advice.
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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 10:16 PM
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Stock piston rings aren’t gapped for boost. The #7 cylinder is a known weak point when aggressive with boost/tune.

If you leave a lot of slack in the tune (low timing, rich on fuel) it can live a long time even with the issues mentioned.

You can run a hotter tune and have meth injection as a safety net. You can pull the shortblock and have a machine shop install forged rods/pistons planning to run boost.... that’s not expensive if you’re a gearhead and do your own work. After that you can really make some power.
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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 10:51 PM
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That's just it. A dealer has it in Indianapolis Indiana, about 120 miles away. I'll try and see if I can get the previous owner's info and contact them with questions. As I said, I don't have enough knowledge of these things to check pressure and such. Sounds to me like I need to buy a Z without and added it myself. That way I know what I have. Maybe the dealer will work with me if he wants a sale. They also want too much for it in my opinion at $32.8k for a 2003. It's a sellers market as someone said.
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ductape
That's just it. A dealer has it in Indianapolis Indiana, about 120 miles away. I'll try and see if I can get the previous owner's info and contact them with questions. As I said, I don't have enough knowledge of these things to check pressure and such. Sounds to me like I need to buy a Z without and added it myself. That way I know what I have. Maybe the dealer will work with me if he wants a sale. They also want too much for it in my opinion at $32.8k for a 2003. It's a sellers market as someone said.
For that kind of money, I'd be tempted to put you in my 03 Z. I'm just across the river in Shelbyville. Torch red with mod red interior. Pretty much stock, Long tubes , CAI, about 13,000 mikes last time I checked.
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 11:05 AM
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I wouldn't buy one that had a blower unless I knew the history. If you're just going out for a drive on a lazy Sunday afternoon there is no reason for a blower. If you're at the track every weekend things wear out faster. Have it gone over by a mechanic you trust.
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 12:22 PM
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I've had an A&A supercharger on my '04 convertible for several years now. I have been very happy with it. I have 98K miles on it, and it's running great! As others have said, it's all about the tune. If you can find a shop you trust to go over the car really well, they should be able to spot any serious issues. If it has a good tune, you shouldn't have any issues. Personally, I'm running 10PSI with no serious issues. If I were you, I would drive it, and see what you think.
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 12:26 PM
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i wouldnt worry about it. buy the car, dont beat on it and take it to a tuner you trust to have the tune gone through. tell your tuner youre not chasing power numbers but longevity. i see absolutely no reason why the car wouldnt be reliable and survive normal driving (including spirited runs on the weekends) and live to see over 100k miles. the key will be the tune and how you treat it. it can be bone stock and die at a young age if abused and mistreated. buy the car, swap out the valve springs if they are still yellow, buy the column lock bypass, get it retuned and enjoy it. youll love it.


you could probably even see if they will give a 30 day warranty on it. that gives you plenty of time to look it over and get it set up.
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 05:50 PM
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Diamond Motorworks in Lisle IL has 2002 z06 black supercharged with 33,000 miles for $28,900. She is beautiful, black.
Check it out. I don’t know how to put link here but if you will google it, you will fond it.
Its much nicer then the one in Indiana.
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 06:31 PM
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just checked their website out… nice cars but wow! Seems like their pricing is extremely high. 😳


Originally Posted by Iceman60467
Diamond Motorworks in Lisle IL has 2002 z06 black supercharged with 33,000 miles for $28,900. She is beautiful, black.
Check it out. I don’t know how to put link here but if you will google it, you will fond it.
Its much nicer then the one in Indiana.
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 07:30 PM
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Thanks for the advice folks. I am recovering from eye surgery at the moment, which makes this message tough to type. When I can see well again I'll look into this more. And JoeJ, I won't pay that much if that is their firm price. I just hadn't thought of buying a supercharged Z until I stumbled onto this one. Yours does sound tempting however.
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 08:46 PM
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Cost is too high IMO. Superchargers at reasonably low boost won't ruin the engine, but longevity starts coming down to luck if you get aggressive.
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Black
Driven responsibly and maintained accordingly your engine has a chance of living it's normal lifespan.

If the tune is aggressive that can shorten life real quick. If it's tuned to be friendly but still make power it will be fine.

If it's tuned to make power and you race it at the drag strip every weekend you will probably be going through the motor once every couple years if it makes real power.

If I were buying a blower car from someone I didn't know I would want to do a leakdown check and an Oil pressure check and maybe even look inside the oil filter just for peace of mind.

It's always a tough call when you didn't build it yourself or know its history.
I agree with Mr. Black....totally. I have a built LS7 in my C5. There is something to be said for a great sounding, great running, naturally aspirated engine. However, in my humble opinion, a blown engine is going to be more reliable long term. The engine will have stock reliability 99% of the time, because you're not on boost 99% of the time. I'm friends with a guy who has an A&A kit on an '02 Z06. he's driven it for over 10 years with no engine trouble of any kind. 2 years ago, he did alter things a bit by adding a different cam, nothing wild, but it's potent enough now that it has made just over 650whp. No problem yet. So we'll see. You'll pay several thousand more initially, but it will tend to equal out thru the years, by not needing new valvesprings, etc....
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ductape
That's just it. A dealer has it in Indianapolis Indiana, about 120 miles away. I'll try and see if I can get the previous owner's info and contact them with questions. As I said, I don't have enough knowledge of these things to check pressure and such. Sounds to me like I need to buy a Z without and added it myself. That way I know what I have. Maybe the dealer will work with me if he wants a sale. They also want too much for it in my opinion at $32.8k for a 2003. It's a sellers market as someone said.
It may be a sellers market, but selling Corvettes this late in the season is a lot tougher than selling a Corvette in April. Use the seasonal use facts to your advantage......
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by I’m Z one
just checked their website out… nice cars but wow! Seems like their pricing is extremely high. 😳
The is a guy from Iowa, super nice guy.
He has 2002 Z06 black with only 25,000 miles.
A lot of receipts from the dealership for breaks, AC ….. . Very well maintained.
you can find his add at CarGurus and I think Auto Trader.
His phone number is: +1 (309) 230-7329.
You won’t be disappointed, it’s all original car.
I wanted to buy it but C6 showed up and I took it.

Good luck buddy
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 09:50 AM
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The major structural parts of a stock engine are strong enough for low boost. Hot Rod Magazine's Freiburger once boosted a 4.8 L LS clear to 1000 HP on the dyno, but FIRST disassembled the engine and increased the ring gap for boost.

Under boost, top piston ring temperature can rise to a point that in an engine with stock ring gap, the top ring gap closes, often on No. 7, and can pull that piston apart and or crack that cylinder wall.

Take note of what Wiseco says about ring gap for boosted engines vs normally aspirated street engines. Top ring gap on a 4" bore stock engine is about 0.016". Boosted top ring gap for 4" bore should be about 0.028"

http://blog.wiseco.com/everything-yo...about-ring-gap
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 10:00 AM
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Throws off the weight balance and adds weight to the car. Which ruins the whole ethos of what the car was designed to be- a lightweight road carver or track weapon.

Last edited by ArmchairArchitect; Sep 22, 2021 at 10:00 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ArmchairArchitect
Throws off the weight balance and adds weight to the car. Which ruins the whole ethos of what the car was designed to be- a lightweight road carver or track weapon.
There is absolutely some truth to this for sure. Funny thing is though very few drive these cars in a way they were intended to. I say have fun with it however you'd like.
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jim993
The major structural parts of a stock engine are strong enough for low boost. Hot Rod Magazine's Freiburger once boosted a 4.8 L LS clear to 1000 HP on the dyno, but FIRST disassembled the engine and increased the ring gap for boost.

Under boost, top piston ring temperature can rise to a point that in an engine with stock ring gap, the top ring gap closes, often on No. 7, and can pull that piston apart and or crack that cylinder wall.

Take note of what Wiseco says about ring gap for boosted engines vs normally aspirated street engines. Top ring gap on a 4" bore stock engine is about 0.016". Boosted top ring gap for 4" bore should be about 0.028"

http://blog.wiseco.com/everything-yo...about-ring-gap
I'm by no means an LS expert but it's always been my understanding even if it's a misunderstanding that on an LS1/LS6 which C5s have that the rods will shoot out the side of the block before you need to worry about top ring gap.

I think you can safely make 600 or maybe even 700wheel on a stock bottom end without opening up the top ring gap on a good tune. Short burst of power should be fine.

Gonna go standing mile or half mile racing and it will probably butt the rings eventually.
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