Hey I recently got my c5 dyno tune it has long tubes x pipe and muffler delte and cold air intake it made 280 on a dyno jet are these accurate?

 

Curious, what year is your Vette? Did you install performance cats too?

 

Sounds low, I had my 03 dyno tuned after long tubes and blackwing and made 332 hp and a touch over 350 torque on a mustang dyno.

Edit to add, mine is 6 speed base convertible with catted x pipe and ZO6 ti catback.

 

I have longtubes and a black wing intake straight piped idk if the dyno reads low it is a a4 98 vertible

 

What I've seen is stock A4 C5s dyno between 275 and 290 rwhp. Depending on air quality etc. and years 97-00 or 01-04 there is a minimal hp difference at the crank (5hp) which will net slightly higher in the later year models. Same for MN6 cars with folks seeing between 295 and 310 rwhp.

Your numbers are on the low side as those are stock results. However, how does it drive? Does it feel noticeably faster post tune?

With LTs and an intake you likely have power left on the table and you need a better tuner. Even if the dyno was stingy that's what one would expect with no mods on an early A4. You should get 15 to 20rwhp (over stock) out of Longtubes with no other supporting mods.

 

'97 MN6 w/Callaway Honker and B&B Triflow axle-back as the only engine related mods...

 

Maybe it was a low dyno? Because it feels noticeably different by allot

 

The numbers are really low, that's why I asked how it drives. The tune itself and the results are what is most important, not the numbers posted up on the screen or on your print out. It's possible it's just a stingy dyno and or not well calibrated. Dyno tuning is just a tool to calibrate everything in order to maximize power output and driveability. Street driving or track driving (trap speed) is where you'll get an idea for the power it actually makes. Sucks to hace to wonder though.

I had a tune done once on a H/C/I build and the HP tuners software went haywire after the final pull. Car ran and drove great but my print out looked like an EKG reading.

Although car was driving great and made good power at the time (418rwhp/398rwtq) I was still cranky about my dyno sheet. I got over it eventually.

You could bring it to another shop and just have another pull done to get HP and TQ rating for peace of mind.

 

Dyno tuning is mostly useful to do before-and-after comparisons. Just a chassis dyno sheet will only ballpark peak torque/horsepower figures because they all run correction factors, and all of the correction factors are different. Not to mention things like elevations and temperatures can be different between different locations and days. You can get pretty reliable numbers out of a reputable engine dyno but nobody wants to do that unless they're building an engine, and even then it's usually not done.

280 peak whp sounds a bit low but a cold air filter isn't gonna do anything for you anyways in most cases (only a few have serious improvement without just being really crap at filtering air), long tubes can move your peak numbers to the right (and up) but that doesn't necessarily translate into butt dyno feel, and some long tubes are just garbage, and the tune associated with it is more just to get the maps right than to give you any more power beyond what the long tubes would get. Overall an old tired engine, a hot day, high elevation ... a not particularly generous chassis dyno ...

I assume you don't really have any before-and-after charts. Honestly, unless you are doing before-and-after to really figure out what you're installing on your car and how it's going to affect it, you can just skip the peak numbers wankery and enjoy driving your car.

 

Yea not to worried about the dyno number *** it pulls hard I’m happy with it was just curious

 

It spend from a 30 on a 275 tire doing a diff swap this week

 

Those numbers are certainly very low. My fully stock '04 A4 vert got 300 HP at the wheel on the dyno. I'm currently running 500 HP with an A&A kit with the 3.15 performance transaxle and an RPM stage 5 transmission.