Hi I’m new to the forums, but I have been lurking for months now. This is my first post, basically I have a great set up (in my mind) to make the C5 loud (mine is stock), please tell me your opinions, inputs and what else you would do, I want to make it as loud as possible. Here is the set up

• Kooks-headers 1-7/8 with high flow cats street with X-Pipe
• SLP-loudmouth exhaust system (corvette C5)
• BTR complete LS1 NA ultimate cam kit (stage 2 CAM)
• Would this set up turn out to be good? Any modification you guys would make? This is my 1st experience with modifying the car, so basically call me a newbie, and yes I like it loud.

 

I have different headers and x pipe no cats, stage 3 cam ,same axle back mine is very loud

 

Welcome to the forum!! Your proposed setup would probably sound alright. There are louder options (like open headers), However, those options sound like total ****. It's not just about how loud it is, but also what it sounds like. Keep in mind that you will need a tune with the cam swap and headers. Be aware that you're probably going to have a significant amount of drone with that setup. You may think that's cool now, but it will wear on you over time. I would strongly suggest prioritizing the quality of the sound over the volume of the sound. Swapping out the Loudmouth for a Borla ATAK might be a good option there. At least that would not drone.
Also, be aware that what you're talking about doing isn't cheap. The headers alone will cost you over $2K. You could get speed engineering headers for less than $500.00. The x-pipe that comes with these does not have cats. This could cause emissions issues for you, and will make the car smell bad. However, it will also be louder. If you go with that option, be aware that the clamps that come with that set are awful. You can buy other clamps or have the set welded instead of clamped. Most good cat back systems will be over $1k. The cam kit will also be over $1K. None of the costs I have mentioned include labor. Unless you're doing all this yourself, plan on several thousand more for installation. With all that said, good luck with your build.
Don't take this the wrong way, but I hope you're not my neighbor.

 

Yeah @MWWarlord , I was looking at the speed engineering headers and the price is incredible, but I’m NOT a fan of catless (I much prefer high flow cats) for the reasons you mentioned. I would rather go all in and spend premium $$$ on long tube headers, xpipe and high flow cat, because to me it would be one and done deal since I don’t plan to ever change it unless I absolutely have to. I was looking at Borla ATAK exhaust as well, so I might end up with that possibly. Yes I’am aware of the price of the CAM and headers, but I’am one of those people that just wants to go big and don’t ever plan to change it once it’s all done. Dyno tune after the setup from a Corvette shop would be 110% as well of course.

 

a nice tone - louder than stock - is better than a harsh boat like screaming/agressive sound IMHO.

 

Kooks are the best(the cost reflects that). I'm not criticizing that choice. I just wanted to offer a cheaper, louder alternative. You will likely want to consider ceramic coating or wrapping them. You will also want to consider heat shielding for your spark plug and starter wires. I think you are making a good choice with the high flow cats(even if they won't be as loud). Since you're looking to do one and done, you'll really want to stick to (full muffler) Borla or Corsa exhaust. They are the only two non OEM options that don't drone. They are certainly still very loud though.
You have not told us what you primarily intend to use the car for. There is no doubt that the right cam can add chop to the car's sound. However, for a primarily street car, you might want to consider forced induction instead. An A&A supercharger kit will get you 500HP at the wheels. At the same time you maintain stock drivability (when you want it), and stock fuel economy (if you drive conservatively). Not to mention the supercharger and BOV make some pretty cool sounds themselves.
The cam you've chosen will permanently lower your fuel economy, while also making the car less comfortable to drive on the street. At the same time, the car will be less reliable, and make less power than it would with an A&A kit. Again though, if you are prioritizing the sound over performance, the cam might be the way to go. Now, if you're building a track car (in which case why would you even care about the sound) a moderate to aggressive cam might be a good choice. Just some food for thought. Good luck with your build. Keep us posted on what you end up doing.

 

I've run Kooks 1 7/8 LTs and Xpipe through Borla Stingers on my 99 for over 15 years and 10s of thousands of miles with no issues. The Kooks made a significant improvement on exhaust note. You 100% cannot go wrong with Kooks. Without question, if you have the budget the quality & fitment will provide that "one and done" you are looking for.

I run a very similar (to BTR stage 2) spec Cammotion cam. It's 232/236/113+. I've run it since 2008 and 10s of thousands of miles without reliability issues. NA car made 418rwhp/391rwtq with LS6 intake, WCCH 241 stage 2 heads & Blackwing. In fact that same cam is still in my car at 140k miles now with an ECS Novi 1500.

The BTR Stage 2 was designed for street driving. So it's a great performer on street driven applications. I love that cam NA. However, in an MN6 I do reccomend a gear change with a cam of those specs. 4.10 gears are a major benefit. They drastically improve low speed driveability, they put a cam of those specs in the sweet spot at start of the power band , and they raise RPMs slightly at highway speed to keep the exhaust note out of the "drone zone".

 

Can't imagine why anyone would spend the money on SLP loudmouths. You could pay a muffler shop to cut the stock ones off and weld a loop of pipe in for less and have the same effect.

I get wanting to be loud, but don't rip yourself off in the process.

And for the love of all that's good and holy, if you're going to do it, at least do the headers and cam first so you don't sound like your cousin is your biggest love interest with the stock farm truck burble.

You will certainly enjoy the car with the cam swap, but just be prepared to spend the money to do it all if you aren't doing the labor yourself.

 

@Johnny Hardcore since you have a similar set up that I’m going for. How would would stock heads and stock manifold do with the BTR stage 2 CAM? I’m simply going for sound and 110% for street…not performance, but performance will come either way. BTR stage 2 cam, Kooks long tube headers (1 7/8) with high flow cats, and Billy Boat axle back exhaust.

 

I never ran the cam with stock heads, so I'd just be guessing or assuming on how it performs. Lift may be an issue with that cam and stock heads. If power output is just a byproduct of your ultimate goal which is sound...I think the outcome for sound will be very good. I ran a 228/228/112 prior to the cam I have now and that sounded even louder and lopier with the 112 lobe seperation. Power output was relative.

I did run Billy Boat Bullets on another C5 I had. They sound okay in my opinion (not as good as Stingers to me). They were louder but the sound wasn't what I wanted. 60's/70's muscle car sound to some extent.
I also had issues with the exhaust hangers breaking on that BBB exhaust. I didnt have a ton of miles on them either. So for whatever that's worth.

 

I’ve run headers with 3” tubing all the way back through 3” low restriction mufflers. A guy at a car show bought my car (and I wasn’t even there to sell it!) because he thought it was just the sound he had been searching for.

Ive heard a couple of cars with 4” exhaust and they were awesome. Something about the larger diameter exhaust tubing really helps present that deep throaty header sound.

A lumpity-lump cam with headers and 3” all the way back would sound good and be loud with the “right” mufflers. I would recommend you call some cam companies you like and let them know what you’re looking for, and they will conjure up the sound you like without you having to worry about valve clearance. Easy peasy.

BTW, you are not limited to a cat back “system”. For example, I have Flowmaster mufflers, because I like the sound they make. My preference. Point is you can get the tubing size you want bent, and then match it with the mufflers you like, or get a cat back, whatever…. Also, check out remote operated cut outs, then when the time is right you’re running open headers .

Have fun and welcome to the forum!

 

That, and most "systems" are vastly overpriced just because of the names attached.

 

I have run headers and NO mufflers.
It is loud, just like you want it.
Good luck

 

I have loud mouth on mine and sounds Great!

 

Sound is subjective, and it will sound great to some and horrify Tesla types. I have LG LTs, with HF cats and a Corsa Pace Car CB with two large oval tips that act like a megaphone. Heads (TF215) A&A (Comp) Stg3 blower cam. My setup is very loud, but doesn't drone at all. I can creep out of my neighborhood at 6 if I'm very careful not to use much throttle. It's a balance that suits my taste, and everybody that loves cars seem to like the sound. One thing I would do different would be to have kept my last cam, a 228/232@112 Crane that had a beautiful lumpy idle. The slight extra HP of a dedicated blower cam was not worth losing that idle. OTOH, the new cam lowerered my DCR to make it safer with forced induction. Oh yeah, if you get quality SS headers, the coatings are a waste of money, IMO.

 

The coatings are to reduce radiant heat. They also preserve the finish on steel headers, but the header choices for the C5 all seem to be stainless steel anyway.

 

May get a little more sound with no crossover at all.
Or just leave the exhaust as is and put cutouts in it.

 

SS is a terrible conductor of heat, or electricity, so...

I really dig the gold/blue color the SS take after a time. PS get coolsocks.

 

Loud can be interpreted in many ways. If loud means a mean exhaust note, like a note where you can hear each cylinder fire or something that grunts when you step on it, you'll need to replace the stock shorty headers with merged long tubes and a lot of heat wrapping. If you like pops and gurgle when downshifting, don't put in an X pipe, leave it totally stock and go with just axle-back, an X-pipe pretty much eliminates the pop and gurgle. Borla axle-back stingers are pretty loud but more of a raspy loud than just loud. Also, modern cat's can flow a whole lot more than the ancient stock units, a new set of cats can open up the sound as well but that can get expensive.

 

I have HiFlo Sweet Tunder on my C5 and it's awesome:
http://www.americantorque.com/page/0/3910/