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Switching to Coilovers

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Old May 20, 2022 | 06:23 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mstromquist
I've always thought new shocks, no matter what style they were, came with new bushings. Nothing in any instructions I take it on what to use! That's pretty weird.
Nothing that I’ve seen so far. It does seem odd that they don’t supply them with the kit. I’m going to reach out to BC and get a recommendation. Most of the install reviews I’ve watched the guys just used the take off bushing from their old shocks. In my case, I’ve only got a couple thousand miles on the new Bilsteins. No rush doing the install so I’ll take my time and make sure it’s set up correctly.
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Old May 22, 2022 | 09:07 PM
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Got the Coilovers in. It probably took a good six hours, just taking my time. I didn’t make any height adjustments to the Coilovers before the install. After a short drive around the block, the rear is sitting at 27 1/4” & the front is right at 26”. I’ll start by bringing the rear down about 1/2” and see what I think. Any real test drive won’t happen tonight so I’ll report back on what I think. The drive around the block didn’t tell me much.

Rears we’re pretty simple. I didn’t need to disconnect the upper control arm to get the Coilovers in. I removed, in order, the sway bar & end links, the rear lowering bolts, dropped the leaf, the shock, the tie rod. I was able to work the Coilover from the back and into place over the lower mount. You’ll need a jack under the lower control arm to raise and lower the wheel end as needed. Bolted everything back up and installed the new Hotchkis sway bar. I mounted the end links into the center hole on the end of the rear swaybar.

The fronts were a little more time consuming. You do need to drop the upper control arm to get the Coilovers into place. Just remember the front two bolts on the upper control arm have washers. Make sure you put those back in place. I also didn’t remove the front calipers. The lines pulled a little bit but I never had the full weight of the wheel end on the lines. I kept a jack under the rotor to raise and lower the wheel end. I removed the sway bar and end links, the shock, the tie rod, the in upper control arm. After that you can relieve the tension on the leaf and drop it out. Just reversed the whole process with another Hotchkis sway bar up front. The front swaybar is considerably larger that stock.

If anyone has any questions let me know. If you’ve got a way to get the car fully off the ground and don’t mind a days worth of work it’s not a difficult swap. Take bolts out, put bolts in. And you end up with a pile of old parts. Got a new set of Bilstein B8 shocks and some other crap if anyone needs it
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Old May 23, 2022 | 07:08 AM
  #23  
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Don't go too low. You'll want to keep 1/4-1/2" rake in the car.
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Old May 23, 2022 | 10:45 AM
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They look great. How is the compression and rebound adjusted on those? That's the part I'm having to adjust and takes the most time. Also, do those springs hit on the A-arms when you lift the car off the ground? My fronts do a little bit. Nothing serious but they do hit.
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Old May 23, 2022 | 11:38 AM
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Did it change the handling?
I am getting BC as well but 12k rate.

I am wondering how do you like the spring rate you have?

thank you
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Old May 23, 2022 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mstromquist
They look great. How is the compression and rebound adjusted on those? That's the part I'm having to adjust and takes the most time. Also, do those springs hit on the A-arms when you lift the car off the ground? My fronts do a little bit. Nothing serious but they do hit.
Theres just a dial **** to adjust hard/soft. Its got 30 settings. Mine are currently set right in the middle. When I did the install the car was on the quick jacks. I didn’t notice any rubbing but the Coilovers are a little wider so there’s not much clearance.
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Old May 23, 2022 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by C7ZO6
Did it change the handling?
I am getting BC as well but 12k rate.

I am wondering how do you like the spring rate you have?

thank you
Once I finally got the install done I didn’t have the energy or time to drive it enough to form an opinion. I’ve got a few extra days off this weekend so I plan on doing the height adjustments and getting it out on the road.
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Old May 25, 2022 | 07:45 AM
  #28  
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The shocks, sways, and end links look great! Are those end links included with the sways?
It took me the better part of a year and one busted rear inner wheel liner to get my coilovers dialed in. I have 345's in the rear and they aren't very forgiving when the wheel bottoms out! (Too low!)
It's a little time consuming removing the wheels and making the adjustments, but eventually when you get it all dialed in, I think you'll be pleased.
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Old May 25, 2022 | 09:55 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by lewislgZ06
The shocks, sways, and end links look great! Are those end links included with the sways?
It took me the better part of a year and one busted rear inner wheel liner to get my coilovers dialed in. I have 345's in the rear and they aren't very forgiving when the wheel bottoms out! (Too low!)
It's a little time consuming removing the wheels and making the adjustments, but eventually when you get it all dialed in, I think you'll be pleased.
The endlinks are AFE adjustable links. They’re the same ones that come with the Johnny O’Connell sway bars. I got them about a year ago. One of my old plastic OEM links was busted.
Im not really looking forward to making the adjustments. I’ll need the wheels off for height adjustments but I think if I just get the car in the air I should be able to dial the dampening with the wheels on. 🤞
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Old May 28, 2022 | 10:42 PM
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I took the C5 out for a longer drive this week after installing the Coilovers. First impression, the ride is significantly better. I still haven’t adjusted anything. The current set up is straight out of the box. So far so good though. All the harshness on the highway is gone. No more bracing myself going over bridges. Once I get the height dialed in I’ll run it down some twisty roads and see how it feels.
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