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The Z06 is nearing completion and I'll need to flush and fill the brake lines and fill the all-new clutch hydraulic system.
I have been using Motul 600 with my 99 for almost a decade now. I did not realize how happy I was until I had to use a gas station dot 4 fluid in a pinch. I'll want to totally flush the system next time I service the car because the car has always enjoyed absolutely tight pedal and now it has some softness to it. Bah!
So I am considering a few after quick searches. I already have the thought in mind that I'll use the Castrol for the RXT / Tick combo. It may be pricier but it has higher tolerances and I expect to put that clutch to the test. For the brakes it seems any of the four are solid options for an ABS equipped street car which will mostly see spirited rips in the hills moreso than hpde events.... though I'm looking to give those a shot now. The C6Z brakes I have are an affordable middle of the road option without going to a Wilwood or AP kit... both of which are well beyond my driving needs. But the increase in surface area of the rotors as well as the increased grip surface suggest to me that I can transfer and hold more heat in these brakes over time than what I've been used to. The 99 coupe was OEM calipers and centric high carbon/cryo rotors with a StopTech track pad for a long time. I recently switched to a carbon ceramic pad.... it works well.... and keeps the car clean.... but I miss the track pads despite the black wheels. I digress.
Does anyone have experience which would offer differentiation between these four?
Also - the Z06 has sat with no brakes on it for 2 years now and the hardlines sitting open. Should I just flush the heck out of it up front, or flush it, run the brakes for a while through some heat cycles and then flush?
$29 Motul RBF 660
$21 ATE Type 200
$24 Ferodo Super
$59 Castrol SRF
Stopping power is very significant and way more than I need. I mostly do back road cruises with high speed cornering, but it's not uncommon for me to hit well into triple digits and be hard on the brakes for several miles at a time. The car stops on a dime now when needed and I have experienced zero brake fade with thIS set up. Comparing it to my previous set which were the factory C5Z calipers(ceramic brakes, zinc coated slotted rotors), was a less than steller experience. They were mediocre at best and did the job, but brake fade, and brakes heating up would make me nervous going into high speed cornering. They just didn't have the bite I desired/needed, and honestly I didn't realize how absolutely horrendous they were until I upgraded to my current system. For someone who just uses their Vette for point A to B driving and the occasionally speed burst they will suffice. If you already have your C6Z set laying around/installed I would just use that and go from there. From what you describing for your needs it sounds like it should do the job.
With that being said I will let someone else chime in with regards to HPDE. As far as flushing, if it were my car and it has been sitting for 2 years with no brakes and open hardlines you better damn well believe I'm going to flush the hell out of the system before taking it for a joy ride.
I would also look into the Hawk HP600 fluid. Same boiling points at the Motul but less expensive. I use the higher temp HP660 in my track car, but the higher temp formula tends to absorb moisture slightly faster. I tend to do a quick bleed every couple events anyway. The HP600 would be perfect for street/track car.
I wouldnt worry much about the lines being exposed. You should be able to see if any contaminates come out during the first bleed and just keep going until you get good clean fluid.
Does anyone have experience which would offer differentiation between these four?
Also - the Z06 has sat with no brakes on it for 2 years now and the hardlines sitting open. Should I just flush the heck out of it up front, or flush it, run the brakes for a while through some heat cycles and then flush?
$29 Motul RBF 660
$21 ATE Type 200
$24 Ferodo Super
$59 Castrol SRF
It isn't one of your 4 options, but I've been using Wilwwod EXP600 fluid with my stock C5Z brakes and clutch for about six years and have been happy with it. I also have Wilwood Promatrix pads and rotors and braided stainless lines, and this setup has performed well at autocross and HPDEs without fading or failing. I run HPDEs in the intermediate groups, so I don't push as hard as some of the track rats on the forum.
I would definitely do a thorough flush of your system with whatever fluid you choose. Brake fluid absorbs so much moisture from the air that the fluid in your open lines is ruined and you need to get it all out of there. I might even start flushing new fluid before connecting the calipers so no old fluid enters the calipers where it will be most exposed to high temps.
Originally Posted by Not4spd
I can only offer my experience with C6Z brakes:
Stopping power is very significant and way more than I need. I mostly do back road cruises with high speed cornering, but it's not uncommon for me to hit well into triple digits and be hard on the brakes for several miles at a time. The car stops on a dime now when needed and I have experienced zero brake fade with thIS set up. Comparing it to my previous set which were the factory C5Z calipers(ceramic brakes, zinc coated slotted rotors), was a less than steller experience. They were mediocre at best and did the job, but brake fade, and brakes heating up would make me nervous going into high speed cornering. They just didn't have the bite I desired/needed, and honestly I didn't realize how absolutely horrendous they were until I upgraded to my current system. For someone who just uses their Vette for point A to B driving and the occasionally speed burst they will suffice. If you already have your C6Z set laying around/installed I would just use that and go from there. From what you describing for your needs it sounds like it should do the job.
I think your poor experience with the C5Z system was due to the ceramic pads. They're great for everyday driving and even some spirited driving, but they're going to fade at higher temps like from frequent triple digit braking.
I've had excellent experience with ATE TYP200. Right now, you can get two 1 liter tins on amazon for $35.99. I would pick a good performance pad over carbon ceramic. They will dust more, but you'll get the performance that you need. As far as the brake lines go, I would flush the hell out of them before you ever try to drive it. I know you've been working on this for a long time. Congrats on finally getting it finished.
I've had excellent experience with ATE TYP200. Right now, you can get two 1 liter tins on amazon for $35.99. I would pick a good performance pad over carbon ceramic. They will dust more, but you'll get the performance that you need. As far as the brake lines go, I would flush the hell out of them before you ever try to drive it. I know you've been working on this for a long time. Congrats on finally getting it finished.
I went with Z26 pads for the Z06 after reading as much as possible. I would swap to more aggressive pads and rotors for track learning but I have polished CCW SP500s going back on this car and the old pads corroded fresh hell out of the surface badly. I'm ocd when I wet sand and polish and each barrel would take me 2 to 3 hours to make 'perfect' only to be eaten up not long later. I drive the tires off my cars. They only sit still in the garage when I tear them apart. So on that score my balance is towards less need to polish. Once a year is fine. Adding cermic coat last time helped. This time I've got another new product to try when ready.
You stated the Motul 600 has been working for you in your '99 so stick with it. I use it in my '03 Z HPDE car and it works fine. While I'm doing my pre-race safety checks I always do a quick bleed to get fresh fluid into the calipers. I do a more thorough flush once a year.