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Sounds pretty secure with the eyeballs. I have a kwiklift but it's been at my dad's place 6hrs away. I'm dragging doing this, but my clutch has been a bit finicky (pedal sticking to the floor), even after changing fluid a few times.
If I EVER do a clutch job like this again down the road it will be on a lift. I would definitely plan an extended weekend at your dads and use that lift of his. It would make the job a whole lot easier and safer. I’m getting too old for this crawling under the car work lol.
Todays set back: Trying to remove the pilot bearing. No way that’s coming out the old school way (packing grease in and forcing it). Tried that method for a while and did absolutely nothing. Going to just rent or buy a bearing puller. Oh and removed the whole bellhousing this morning so I can replace the rear main cover. That was a lot of fun….not.
Pulled the whole drivetrain assembly back out from under the car, here’s a much better shot. Going to degrease and pressure wash it.
Todays set back: Trying to remove the pilot bearing. No way that’s coming out the old school way (packing grease in and forcing it). Tried that method for a while and did absolutely nothing. Going to just rent or buy a bearing puller. Oh and removed the whole bellhousing this morning so I can replace the rear main cover. That was a lot of fun….not.
Pulled the whole drivetrain assembly back out from under the car, here’s a much better shot. Going to degrease and pressure wash it.
I was thinking, have done clutch jobs on 3 cars, and last time “rented” pilot bearing puller tool, but was lazy and never returned it and that means you own it, I figured I would do another clutch in my life, still have tool, and that was over 20 years ago!
Noticed you popped out the driveshafts from differential, do you have to do that to pull assembly out of car, or was it for another reason?
Just trying to learn for when I one day do mine, the clutch slave seems to leak sometimes and it’s all original and old.
Just for $hit$, how much does this job cost, if done by “the guy”?
Had mine changed by what's supposed to be the best shop in central Florida a couple of years ago. Just the clutch is 10.5 hours shop labor, so 10.5 times local shop rate (which is going to be north of $100/hour now) plus parts running from $500 and up.
The big, big plus? I dropped the car off on Monday, and drove it home on Wednesday. No new curse words were developed or learned (at least for a while...).
Trying to remove the pilot bearing (packing grease in and forcing it). Tried that method for a while and did absolutely nothing.
Oh boy. Yeah, it may have done something, just not a good something. There is a press fit plug in the end of the crankshaft, which may have been driven inward some amount. That plug seals the crankshaft oil gallery, so kind of important.
Had mine changed by what's supposed to be the best shop in central Florida a couple of years ago. Just the clutch is 10.5 hours shop labor, so 10.5 times local shop rate (which is going to be north of $100/hour now) plus parts running from $500 and up.
The big, big plus? I dropped the car off on Monday, and drove it home on Wednesday. No new curse words were developed or learned (at least for a while...).
that seems cheap, I got a quote her local in Dallas I think it was $2,500 with some stage 1 clutch (upgrade over stock)
I was thinking, have done clutch jobs on 3 cars, and last time “rented” pilot bearing puller tool, but was lazy and never returned it and that means you own it, I figured I would do another clutch in my life, still have tool, and that was over 20 years ago!
Noticed you popped out the driveshafts from differential, do you have to do that to pull assembly out of car, or was it for another reason?
Just trying to learn for when I one day do mine, the clutch slave seems to leak sometimes and it’s all original and old.
Yes you have to pop out the half shafts. The only reason is the rear brake lines snake through that area and you can’t drop it without either going through that space, or removing the brake lines. It’s actually really simple to pull out the half shafts. They are held in by c -clips and all it takes is a little pressure with a small prybar or big flathead screw driver and they just ‘pop’ out. Easier than I thought.
Funny, my slave cylinder has had a slow leak since I got the car. Always had a small accumulation of brake fluid at the bottom of the bellhousing. All that leaking really seems to have had an effect on the pressure plate. It was the worst looking of any one I ever removed. Probably from the corrosive effects of that leak.
Driveshafts get popped so you can snake the brake lines through that mess.
Here's how my pilot bearing came out with the rented puller years ago.
Originally Posted by redzg
Oh boy. Yeah, it may have done something, just not a good something. There is a press fit plug in the end of the crankshaft, which may have been driven inward some amount. That plug seals the crankshaft oil gallery, so kind of important.
So yeah rented a ‘slide hammer’ bearing puller from Autozone. Glad I stopped trying the grease method. Of course the rental tool wasn’t new, and didn’t have much left of the ‘teeth’ that grab the bearing. Tried several times and kept pulling through. Ended up having to grind the edges down to get it to bite. That worked. Took a LOT of work to pop it out. Jeesus….that simple job was a pita. So I see the plug in there. Looks like it may have moved 1/4” or so, not sitting funny or anything so I’m guessing it’s ok?
The rear cradle has big centering tabs that make sure it’s in the exact place when you bolt it back up. I’ve not heard anything about needing an alignment.
The rear cradle has big centering tabs that make sure it’s in the exact place when you bolt it back up. I’ve not heard anything about needing an alignment.
I've always felt their relationship was akin to throwing a hotdog down a hallway.
I've always felt their relationship was akin to throwing a hotdog down a hallway.
So you’re trying to tell me I should get a rear end alignment?
Took the torque tube apart this morning. Happy to say the internals look like brand new. The rubber bushings look great. No play at all in any bearings. Removing the huge retaining snap ring was a bit of a challenge but not too bad. Put it all back together so that’s good to go. Waiting on a new rear main cover to arrive today before I can begin the whole reinstall procedure. Definitely not going to be wrapped up today lol.
How many miles on the car? Mine is north of 120k and at least 1 bearing was noisy so I did all 3. I noticed the 2 that were quiet had less preload than their replacements.
The shop that did my install in my Z06, Tick LS7 clutch kit, mentioned that he had to shave/sand down some of the bell housing cover in spots ( I believe he said bell housing cover ) because the LS7 clutch is much bigger than the old stock clutch. not sure to what extent it was done and/or which parts affected but would sure like to know for future reference.
First time I've heard that and I don't believe it. The LS7 kit has replaced a lot of LS6 clutches, it seems we would know about it by now.
I happened to accidentally loosen an alignment bolt when I swapped my clutch and it did this to my rear tires
Fortunately an alignment fixed it all right up
Well, that and repeated judicious application of the throttle I assume. I checked total toe last night and I'm 3/33" in with -1.0 camber on both sides. With camber being equal, my thrust angle is probably OK, but I'll get it on the rack to be sure as the front isn't quite where I want it, but the wheel is straight so again probably OK.
So I ordered this new rear main cover with seal already installed and gasket. Seemed to be highly recommended by the reviews but it came with zero instructions. Anyone install one like this without using the alignment tool? Assuming I tighten all upper bolts first, then the two lower but want to be sure. Can anyone confirm this process?
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