Any big deals running out there?

I know Mark is offering $130 off Silvers via FI Performance kicking off Thursday at some point.

I've still been unable to lock down info on Viking Berzerkers.

 

Also looking for some as well. Cant seem to find a good used set.

 

I would separate from my RideTechs if I got a solid price on some Berzerkers. Trying to keep it All American with both brands.

 

Third wheel checking in for coil over deals.

 

Also looking at the LG coil overs so looking for some Black Friday deals.

 

After Dark Speed is having 10% off on there site.
Also in sale are the Viking Berzerkers that ur looking for.

Front:
https://afterdarkspeed.com/product/9...-coilover-kit/
Rear:
https://afterdarkspeed.com/product/9...-coilover-kit/

 

Kelltrac seems to still offer them for a lower price as a set.

 

Best deal I found for the LG GT2 Coil Overs I wanted was with Southern Car Parts. After coupon code and free shipping, total cost was $1,874.35.

 

thinking I will cash in the 401k and buy the PFADT street coil overs.

 

Pfadt is still a thing? With all the options out there I'd pass on them.

@Tusc what info are you wanting on Vikings? I know two guys I can get you hooked up with that can order them for you. Also, @miami993c297 just got some Berzerkers that may be able to help. I don't know what makes a Berzerker a Berzerker, but I'm running triple adj Warrior shocks which are valved more street friendly than the Crusader versions.

 

The Berserkers are running more stroke by design if I am not mistaken...valving can be adjusted to customer requirements, you can have them two ways, three ways and recently four ways... and Thanks Smitty for pointing me in the Viking Coilover direction.
Christian

 

I thought the same re pFadt but thought they're probably good now or we'd have heard about them. Funny thing about coilovers..... they remain, as my list/comparison thread describes, an almost fully unquantified offering as a group. Nowhere do we have a guide comparing or contrasting them. Think of sway bars... no one knows how to compare or decide on them other than the pFadt graphic we all pass around and a very loose understanding of rate vs tire size and oversteer/understeer. Right? Well not even that exists for coilovers. There is no community group voice or understanding by which to compare or contrast them. Key differences between coilovers?

Range of travel - how much effective dampening can the shock body offer, or how low can you drop the car and still have range of motion without bottoming out your shock in a corner and turning your effective spring rate to infinity (you're either about to spin or have a very harsh ride)

Spherical Bearings vs Other - well almost all popular/common kits are spherical so it becomes a moot point

Spring Rates - fully customizable by owner, generalized by intended use:
Street - 12k / 8k or 550 / 425 lbs
Drag - 12k / 10k
Track - 12k +/-

Spring Quality - who made it? What material? How long will it be good for before sagging, or is it sufficient quality NOT to sag? Hyperco is frequently chosen by manufacturers for this. Silvers, for example, comes direct from the dealer with the option of adding better springs which suggests a weak point.

Connection Type and Material - is the front upper a spherical with a clevis head, rubber, or a delrin half sphere? Spherical providing zero restriction of force

Gas Remote vs Gas Retained Shock - is the gas (nitrogen preferred) retained within the shock body or allowed to remove itself from the shock oil to an external container (air bubbles in the shock oil can reduce peak performance)

Adjustability - conceptually, CAN we adjust the rebound and compression but also SHOULD we? On the topic of "can" comes two points. Many coilovers are sold as a matched set with no adjustability to the valving. Others do have adjustment ***** for one setting or the other, but the range of those settings might be as many as 14 to 30 clicks and there may then ALSO be no actual changes being made to the valving except for the final 5 clicks in some cases. In others, how do you know the "range" of the setting and are you in fact able to put the shock outside the effective range of the spring?

Top vs Bottom mounted Shocks - how much weight is on the traveling part of the suspension

Peripherals - is the adjustment **** easily reached or not, and is it or can it be set remotely. Also, does that remote piece require cutting into the rear compartment or can it be tucked away safely elsewhere. Does the kit have a locking ring? Can the ride height be set independently of the spring? And who knows what else I might be missing - chief of which being any real discussion of how the various models of shocks employed themselves function one vs the other.

But my point here is this...... ALL of us can sit down and readily discuss tire dimensions, basic cam specs or oil weight. That innate group shared knowledge does not exist when looking at coilovers and it comes down to "Ag-47s are the BEST. It's what I've got on my car." And that offers zero differentiation other than they haven't fallen off some dude's car yet and it is also dangerous because it perpetuates a culture of ignorance and clique thinking where everyone buys "Ag-47s" solely because one person is spamming the ever loving snot out of them and then a lot of guys who simply don't know sit there and ape after the spammer saying "Ag-47s are the bestest!" while never actually understanding why they are or are not in reality as worthwhile as people are saying. The fact that Ag-47s already offer Swift Spring upgrades is my first red flag.

See? I bet a bunch of Forum members just learned something reading this.

I should copy/paste a lot of what I just wrote to my coilover comparison thread - which is actually just a "list every coilover" post at this point.

As for grabbing Vikings.... I tapped out the pre-christmas wallet swapping up the headers for now. Unless the pricing is less than the $1800-ish I have seen - and I would be curious what pricing you have found either way! Or if I find a buyer for my just rebuilt RideTech HQs for around $1100. Otherwise at this point I'll put the car together and work up an alignment as it is and get it running before considering the change later.

 

@Tusc ....oh boy are you a thinker...I can relate and I can tell you the following from what I have come across:

Range of travel...it's either enough or it isn't. You will know real fast if you don't have enough. I'm sure there is a "sweet spot" working travel for all shocks but I don't think this is something to concern yourself about EXCEPT to match allowable shock travel to vehicle ride height and expected wheel travel. This can be measured and calculated using motion ration for shock travel.

Bushing/bearings....doesn't much matter. I had delrin front upper with the Ridetech stuff and they would rattle/clang. My Vikings with simple bushing is quiet.

Rates...all user determined for their purpose. I can say getting over 650+lbs gets STIFF and unless it is a true time attack car with full aero it will be too much.450-650 is probably the majority of rates used.

Adjustability....yes you can and yes you should. Driving conditions/surfaces change and therefore the ability to tweak the shocks is always a benefit.

Spring Quality for sag...doesn't matter as you can always swap to Hyperco if you REALLY want to. Bigger question would be if the spring rates are actually what they are advertised, but unless you have a machine to measure them or suspect an issue...you'll never know.

Remote vs standard reservoir...from my gathering all comes down to cooling. More fluid stored in a remote reservoir keeps things cooler. 98% of people reading THIS thread don't need remote. I think you really trying to get at mono vs twin tube in terms of air and cavitation issues. I had RT mono and now twin tube Viking...I can't tell a difference.

Standard vs inverted shocks....sure there is a "weight savings" going inverted, but honestly will you tell the difference? I doubt it unless you are squeezing every last lb (includes lightweight wheels and tires) and pushing the car to the limit.

Adjustment method...very important IMO. I hate something that is a pain to adust or use. Koni yellows SUCK with 1/4 window sweeps, RT was better but the ***** on the upper end of the shock in the back and at the very top on the front shocks made it annoying. I had to jack up the car to access the PS front shock ****...useless when in autocross grid. But this is also user determined. If I ONLY street drive and had time/space to make adjustments then it wouldn't be a big deal....but if I ONLY street drive, adjustability isn't really worth it.

My RT to Viking switch was driven mostly due to adjustment method benefit and price point on Viking. Vikings are SO much easier to adjust on the fly and I sold my RT after roughly 1 year for about the same price getting new Vikings. I have yet to regret going Viking.

Yes, everything you brought up is valid and most likely made some people's head spin because all they want is to lower their car, or to say they have coilovers for the car show folk...all comes down to your priorities but be realistic with priorities/needs at the same time.

 

All good points, Smitty.

 

My old school gen 1 Pfadt's are now sitting in the garage in tears, thanks a lot @smitty2919 , how much is Dr. Phil charging for house calls.

 

That is a legit hilarious post.

 

I thought the Warrior was the street friendly version, soft to hard was: Warrior-Berzerkers-Crusaders.


Also, do different vendors use different springs and spring rates?

https://afterdarkspeed.com/product/9...-coilover-kit/

http://kelltrac.com/C5-C6-Corvette-V...cle_p_121.html

 

I don't have a definitive answer on that, but it would seem so. Particularly with Kelly at kelltrac based on the "questionnaire" on the site. I like that idea, similar to Brian's selection format listing rates associated with uses on FIP. That is brilliant for the so many of us who remain babes in the woods when it comes to suspension changes.

The one larger difference I noted on after dark was their alteration of the front upper shocks to the clevis style hinge point. Though their pricing is through the roof for the kit as a whole vs the $50 clevis kit.

 

I only understand springs and shocks/struts when going in a straight line, once you start turning my knowledge is nil.

 

Precisely where my knowledge ends as well. And I admit I have been shooting in the dark and basically taking best educated guesses as to which parts/combo will constitute a benefit to the handling of the Z06 when it rolls out next summer with a power level I have never known.

- 35/25 sway bars with adjustable rear rate
- adjustable end links
- single adjustable coil overs (for now)
- delrin bushings

I have no idea what I'm doing with it all yet. I've never gone this deeo into suspension before. But!.... I am going to enjoy finally learning.

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