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I have a 2000 vette and I looked up info on steering lock issues it said that the 2000 from vin #5100001 thru 5116233 has this issue.
my question is my vin number is after 5116233 so does that mean I won’t have this problem. Please help
I'm curious now too, since I also have a 2000 with a vin number after 5116233. I purchased the LCM years ago and, so far, have not needed to install it. I found documentation from the previous owner that the dealer removed the locking pin as part of a service bulletin.
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I would not chance it - the ‘97-00 auto C5s and all manual C5s had the potential to experience the column lock problem. The cost of a column lock bypass or an LMC5 is well worth it to prevent any unexpected problems.
As VetteMan say, just use a LCM5 and fix your problem.
You are simply not going to outsmart this situation and just delaying is just leaning into a future punch. Spend the $40 buck and the 30 minutes it takes for an easy install and drive worry free. Fix column lock, 2 mph fuel cut off and pull key problems.
It depends whether the "C" version of the recall was ever done. See if you can turn the wheel without the key inserted. If you can, the whole locking mechanism has been removed per that "C" recall. If you can't, it has not been done and you are at risk. The big problem many have had is that a dealer lookup may show that the recall has been done, but the records do not seem to differentiate between the A, B or C version. I had that same problem myself, in that the A and B recalls had been done and the dealership assured me I was up to date. But after a hassle, they fixed it.
The "can you turn the wheel?" test is the definitive test.
I also have a 2000 6-speed I can turn the wheel with the car turned off but I still get the pull key message a couple times a year but have never had a issue. It does have the LCM5 installed. My biggest issue the that damm gas gauge problem dropping to zero.
There was a GM TSB for the gauge-to-zero problem on the early cars for sure. I did not find it on a quick search, but a dealer should be able to dig it up. The fix was a PCM reflash, i.e. new code in the computer, basically "error recovery" so a fuel gauge sender "fault" got cleared automatically. There were also multiple fuel system TSB's issues back then. I took mine in for something else back around 2005 (+/-, certainly pre-2007) and they reflashed the PCM as there was an "outstanding" TSB. I used to have the fuel gauge problem regularly before that. I have never had it since the reflash was done - and I have run all kinds of gas over the years from supermarket specials to top tier.
Thanks when I wake it back up in APRIL I will get that checked out. Did you have any problems with the jet pump, I have heard that could also be a issue so I’ve been fueling up every 200 miles.
Thanks
Thanks when I wake it back up in APRIL I will get that checked out. Did you have any problems with the jet pump, I have heard that could also be a issue so I’ve been fueling up every 200 miles.
Thanks
Never. Had a slight noise coming from the filler a few years back, replaced the fuel filter and it went away. Mine is a '98, when the filter was still (very sensibly) in the fuel line, not in the tank.
Thanks when I wake it back up in APRIL I will get that checked out. Did you have any problems with the jet pump, I have heard that could also be a issue so I’ve been fueling up every 200 miles.
Thanks
If the jet pump is no working, the PCM will drive the gauge to zero and throw a CEL and code. Should happen before 200 miles from a full tank, so you are probably OK. The problem is that these symptoms are the same as a bad/contaminated sender, so you can be fooled into running out of gas.
Thanks, sometime mine will drop to empty after 50 miles and I reset it and I goes back up and other times drive up to 200 before it drops. Guess this spring I’ll have to carry a gas can and see if it runs out, but I still will check out the reflash and see what happens. Thanks again