Ok so I got a 99 vert with oem sound. The end goal is to replace all speakers and wires but retain any chims lights etc. (I’m not even sold that there is really anything that needs to be retained) that said. The door woofers work fine but I would like to replace the two rear speakers ( 5.5”?)x 2 and two door twiddlers (don’t know what a twiddler is size undetermined.)x2. And add an 2din head unit.
question: should i consider 86ing the door woofers?
Phase one replace head unit recommended head unit interface. I will be wanting to have video in motion and keep any oem system issues..suggestions
final question if I’m going that far with the goal of adding a amp for a sub. Any suggestions on speaker layout for doors and rear? I want 4 channel mid/high and a 2 channel sub. Or some variation. I want rich sound with excellent base. Any suggestions or pitfalls to avoid ?
So 1. Good harness/interface ?
2. mid phase speaker layout (keeping part of oem system 2 front 2 rear (suggestions pitfalls sizes etc?
3 scrap all oem components or keep doors?
thanks I’m advance

 

Ditch stock door speakers and don't run any speakers in the rear.

 

I started like you by thinking I could just upgrade the Head unit. That was a mistake. The speakers sounded even worse that way.
So I ended up replacing everything and upgrading it all. The audio system sounds soooo good now.
BTW, the chimes are not related to the audio system in any way.
You will need an adaptor to keep the power turn on function though. I ditched the Sub part of the adaptor because I ditched the factory subs.
- all new wiring to all 4 corners.
- All new speakers. 6.5" all the way around. the rears drop right in with no modifications. The doors need adaptor plates that are sold pretty much everywhere.
- I dropped a 12" Kicker sub with the C5 housing that drops in the rear center storage . You will need to remove the CD changer if you have one now.
- added a 5 ch , 2000W pioneer amp to run it all. And wow!!!
- The head unit is a personal choice. I used a double DIN Pioneer with wireless Android Auto and Wireless Car Play.
- You will need to replace the radio bezel if you are using a double din radio. The factory unit is a DIN and a half. I went with a Metra bezel and had it sprayed with a satin clear to match the interior better.

I had no issues doing all this on my own because I have audio backgrounds. If you don't, I recommend having like Best Buy do the work. I think they have free installation or close to it if you purchase the gear from them.
Good luck!

 

^^^^^ That's the truth right there!

Do Everything right first, HU + 4 speakers at the minimum *particularly if on a Budget like me. Get one DD with new Bezel, research Crutchfield for Radio/Amp/Speaker Options. I went for a JVC DD w/HD tuner. Unit puts out 22x4 RMS, great for powering my efficient JL Audio speakers. That's all for my implementation. Forget the factory Subs in the doors because this space is better utilized for coaxials, or components. Match them front and rear of course. Don't need any sub that's ridiculous. J/k. Anyways my puny 5.25" coaxials have a plethora of midbass, it's OK to spend a little money.

 

ditto.
There's a ton of threads on this. Don't do it piecemeal. keeping the old headunit with new speakers may sound even worse than the stock speakers, since the stock headunit will likley vastly underpower them.
Calling the door speakers subwoofers is the overstatemetn of the year -- they weigh about a quarter pound, and are powered by an "amp" smaller than most cell phones.
The entire system is horrible by today's standards -- you'll have massive heartache doing it piece by piece.
We can give you a ton of options -- you can do it cheap or super expensive.
for a really easy install-- replace the front speakers -- ditch the "subwoffers", drop in 8" speakers, put in nice mids/tweeters -- crutfield sells a plate that you can mount the speakers on in the stock hole. Either ditch or replace the rear speakers (I replaced them)
On the head unit -- I went with an alpine ILX-650. It's a REALLY nice headunit.. about a quarter the depth of other head units. Alpine sells a 450w amp that straps to the back of it, so you can have a very decent sounding system with the headunit, new speakers, and not have to worry about installing another amp (though you can down the road if you want -- I have the ILX650 powering the rear and front mids/tweets, a rockforrd powering 10" speakers, and another rockford powering an amp).

It may not look like it, but ther's a decent amount of room in the c5 to do some nice audio, and it's ridiculously easy to take what you need apart/run wires.

 

everyone is right.......all or nothing

 

Red badger. What rims are those on ur car ?

 

The only factory stereo equipment left in mine is factory wiring to power the head unit and power the 3.5s in the doors. I run the 8” shallow mount P3s in the doors, two 6.5s in the rear and a 10” shallow mount P3 in the hatch off a 5 channel amp. All Rockford Fosgate. It’s one of the loudest and clearest systems I’ve ever heard. Very good sound quality. I’m running the Alpine ilx-w650 head unit which has a ton of tuning options.






it all started with the head unit. That winter I gutted the entire thing.

 

I installed my amp in the exact spot you did yours. I also have an identical Sub housing but mine has a 12" Kicker.
I did not sound proof my car like you did. That looks great! I opted for the Pioneer 2770NEX simply because not only that it is also a shallow chassis, but both the Android auto and the Apple Carplay are wireless.

 

I have a similar setup-- ilx 650, same amp for the sub -- though I mounted mine in one of the smaller storage areas on the side.
Love how you mounted yours.

 

Thanks guys. I think It turned out really nice. I mounted a piece of MDF to the back wall and mounted the amp to that. All the interior fit right back into place. There’s also a ton of room behind the interior panels for running all the wiring. The sound deadening was the biggest pain in the a$$.

 

My setup. Looking for black trunk carpet and black side covers to match the sub box. I think that's how C6s come, always with black trunk carpet no matter the interior trim color.

 

What Amp you guys running with the Alpine ILX 650 head unit.
I just bought one and probably install it sometime this month. I doubt im changing speaker at this point, but they are easy enough to do in the future.
I liked that it had 2 USB ports.

 

Im running a Rockford P1000x5. If you don’t need the watts and 5 channels you can purchase the Alpine amp that attaches to the back of the ilx650 head unit. Pretty cool set up

 

Hey man, great setup! Well thought out and I'm sure quite effective.

I do find it interesting that you run A) 3.5" in Front and B) 8" Woofers. I'm assuming that this is because target Imaging.

Anyways not enough can be said of a good Multiband Equalizer from the HU - I had to adjust mine on the JVC to compensate for speaker variance and spatial setup. Turned out fantastic.

 

I spent quite a bit of time prior to the install just figuring everything out. The 3.5s in the doors were 1- I had the space and 2- I didn’t want all the treble just coming from the 6.5s in the rear. The T165 Rockfords absolutely scream. I’ve actually got them faded out a bit because they’re so close to your ears sitting in the seats.

The one thing I’m still working on is a trim ring to go around the sub box. I’m still in the CAD (cardboard aided design) stage. I’d like to do a fiberglass piece that utilizes the OEM latches off the carpeted cover.

 

I used the 450 watt alpine amp that attaches to the ilx650 to drive my tweeters (audio frogs in the door: Audiofrog GS25 GS Series 2-1/2" midrange car speakers at Crutchfield) and the mids (hertz) in the rear--- it works fantastic for those speakers, but I wanted more for the 6.5" in the doors -- I'm running MorelHybrid MW6 MKII in the doors (Morel Hybrid MW6 MKII Hybrid Series 6-1/2" woofers at Crutchfield) driven by Rockford p600x4, bridged into stereo mode, and a rockford r2-1200x1 for the amp in the rear.

The audiofrogs and the morels are insane, have amazing range, tight base, crystal clear mids, and soak up anything you can throw at it. The hertz-- I forget what I have, but frankly the location sucks, they don't add much, and I typically tune them down for just minor imaging.

I originally went with 2x 8" subwoffers in the doors... while the bass was really nice, Lost alot with the mids and highs (I thought the audio frogs were high powered enough to deal with it) -- i substituted them out for the morels

 

Dam nice int ! thats the way they should have come OEM



.

 

@JMG2 Which guage pillar are you using? I like that one better than mine.

 

think I just got it from autozone --- filled it with chevy licensened gauges, and had it wrapped in leather.