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I'm looking at making the plunge and (finally) getting my "fun" car but have this cute wife that I need to keep happy..... that can't drive a stick (can't afford the divorce + the car). So...... I'm looking at getting an auto-tranny. For a variety of reasons I'm liking the C5s but the 4spd tranny thing has me wondering. It's just so funny because I'm old enough to remember when a 4spd auto was bragged about. Now, everything is 6,7,8.... Hell, I think the Jeep Cherokee she drives is 9spd? Fwiw, I don't really care about MPGs and don't really care about RPMs rolling along for hours at 80MPH. I live on Maui and it's not as if cruising the interstate (fwiw, we don't have one) is a concern. So, how's the 4spd? Enough power in each gear? I "could" just not be able to find an auto-tranny (wink, wink) but she did mention she'd like to drive the Vette a bit, hence my conundrum. Damn.... I was so excited to get another manual. It's probably been 25+ years since I've driven one and I can only imagine how great it would feel. Anyway, I'd love to hear some real-world experiences with the 4spd in the C5s, especially compared to newer 5/6/7spd autos.
The 4L60E gets a bad rap here, but it really isn't as bad as some people portray. FWIW, they produced more 4-speed autos than manuals the duration of the C5 run, like most Vettes. I had an auto in my 99 and it was more than fine, it gets the job done. Now, if you add a SC or a CAM, that is where the 4L60E really shows it's weakness.
Long story short, no major issues with the auto. One thing I would do is drop the pan to change the fluid/filter on any car you buy.
I have had two auto C5's. They are super fun to drive, never had any issues with them.
There is absolutely enough power in each gear. Only been a couple times when rolling and I step on it and it didn't drop gears. Which made me sad.
I have a newer Nissan Frontier also and its a 9 speed auto. I guess for gas milage and if you 4-wheel a lot the "manual mode" is good for that. That really just seems to be a newer-car thing. But for a 20-ish year old corvette the 4 speed on an LS1 feels great and even with a manual you won't be beating even the newer sedans out there with a turbo or twin-turbo 4 or 6 cyl. Heck even some of these SUV's and trucks out there today will stock beat a C5.
If you just want a super cool looking car that comes with a name like "corvette" and looks better than those newer cars that *might* beat it from a stoplight and you don't care about that. Go for it. I personally have stopped trying be be that cool corvette guy speeding off of the line at every stoplight. Don't care if some kid in a Honda Civic wants to race me. He can have fun getting to the next stop light faster than me and telling all his friends he raced a corvette and won the following Monday.
Just being low to the ground, in a corvette and driving fast when you can / want for whatever reason is just straight up fun. Even when you are just running to the grocery store. Just a fun car.
I have had my eyes open on getting another corvette (its a disease) and my next one will be a manual. Looking for a cheap C4 and driven a few ZF 6-speed manuals and they are a real treat. Makes me want to look at a C5 Z06 but that price range is not in the budget for a SECOND corvette for me.... for now
I too have a wife that has never driven stick. Also I find most auto cars are less likely to have torque tube issues.
The biggest thing is you just need to learn where it shifts and regulate the gas to make it do as you like. First to second can come fast if you are not into the gas much.
Only negative is the shift linkage. Bushings can go and leave you stuck in park.
The key with getting a C5 with an A4 is getting one with the performance rear axle option. The 3.15 rear gears make a BIG difference. If you're going to buy an A4, get one with the 3.15 gears. I have since supercharged my C5, and I had to upgrade the transmission to a Level 5 from RPM transmission. It's still a 4L60E 4 speed though. At least on a drag strip, the automatic is actually faster and more consistent than an A6. You might be lucky you don't have an interstate. The horrible bumper to bumper traffic here in northern VA is one of the big reasons I chose the A4 over the M6. It's so much better when you're in stop and go traffic. I'm not sureif that's much of an issue on the island. Good luck with your search!
I like my A4 just fine, but here's the catch, hopefully you can find one with the 3.15 rear diff vice the 2.73. Mine came with the 2.73 and I just bought a 3.42 rear from a low mile Z06 to swap it in. For cruising around, the 2.73 is fine and if this is a date/cruiser car, just go drive up to the lookout etc., it will be fine. If you want to have some better acceleration and more of a true sports car feel, 2.73 just blows IMO.
I lived in kauai for 21 years so understand how island driving is, you'll be WAY happier with the auto.
I love my A4 and as MWWarlord said be sure the car has the 3.15 gears that's the G92 code on the sheet inside the glovebox door. if it is GU2 it's a 2.73 ratio. I also have a supercharger and other mods and the upgraded stage 5 was a must.
The key with getting a C5 with an A4 is getting one with the performance rear axle option. The 3.15 rear gears make a BIG difference. If you're going to buy an A4, get one with the 3.15 gears. I have since supercharged my C5, and I had to upgrade the transmission to a Level 5 from RPM transmission. It's still a 4L60E 4 speed though. At least on a drag strip, the automatic is actually faster and more consistent than an A6. You might be lucky you don't have an interstate. The horrible bumper to bumper traffic here in northern VA is one of the big reasons I chose the A4 over the M6. It's so much better when you're in stop and go traffic. I'm not sureif that's much of an issue on the island. Good luck with your search!
Originally Posted by Burnt C6
I love my A4 and as MWWarlord said be sure the car has the 3.15 gears that's the G92 code on the sheet inside the glovebox door. if it is GU2 it's a 2.73 ratio. I also have a supercharger and other mods and the upgraded stage 5 was a must.
Yup. RPO G92 does make a difference. I have driven both like I am sure you all have and it is noticeable. Never thought it would make that much of a difference but oh, it does.
You probably won't track the car, but still, the following is something to consider:
I've been running my 2001 A4 on the track for 12 years, 26 track days so far, 6 at Buttonwillow Raceway, 13 at Laguna Seca, 7 at Arizona Motorsports Park. The engine and transmission are STOCK, 119,000 miles so far, 45,000 during my ownership. Lessons I have learned are:
- It takes several mods to keep the transmission cool on a road course race track- B&M or equal finned aluminum trans pan DeWitts or equal radiator (Mine with engine oil cooler and Improved Racing engine oil thermostat also) Auxiliary trans cooler in front of the condenser Sac City Cool It to call up High fan coming off track I run Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF and change fluid and filter every six or so track days I monitor transmission temperature on track with the DIC
- Mine became more competitive when I changed from 3.15 Rear Drive to 3.73 with Wavetrac differential (a bearing began to fail in the 3.15 at Buttonwillow Raceway) - I only use 2nd and 3rd on track. MANUAL SHIFTING only. Remember, in 3rd it can do a surprise downshift at high lateral G and high throttle out of a turn, preclude this by manual downshift during turn entry prior to apex, no manual upshift until RPM is past potential auto downshift point. - I always ease off the pace for the last cool down lap, use the Cool It upon exit, park with the hood open to cool the drivetrain between sessions. I've measured front rotor temperature at 550 deg after cool down lap and parking, so I insulated all tie rod ends and lower ball joints:
- I think stock solid brake rotors are fine and have used Hawk HP Plus pads for about 8 years. I've never been wanting for more brake authority on street or track. If you upgrade rotors, slots only, no drilled rotors for track. Lots of dust with the HP plus.
- Be sure to thoroughly flush the brakes, I have found speed bleeders to be fast and efficient. Use High temperature brake fluid with high wet boiling point, examples ATE Typ 200 or Wilwood 600 plus. Do NOT let pads wear below about 50%, the pad material is an insulator between HOT rotor and brake piston. - While the A4 is not as efficient as a manual, I find that I can gain a car length on wide open throttle straights on upshift because I don't lift. - I am close to 79 and can stay in the pack on a wet track:
I currently own 3 Corvettes, all three are automatics and all 3 are convertibles. I've owned others previously, both manuals and automatics, but I'm at the age now that any of the 3 serves me perfectly with no complaints. My '66 is Mosport Green, 2 speed Powerglide automatic with a 3:36 positraction, My '04 is a LeMans Commerative Edition, 4 speed automatic with and electronically controlled locking performance differential (3:15 gears I believe), and my '16 is an 8 speed automatic with a 3:42 rear axle, I believe.
I love all three of mine, and wouldn't trade any for a manual transmission, I'm years past needing to shift the gears myself, especially in normal city/highway driving. Which, by the way, is the type of driving I do these days! I didn't like all the features of the '16, especially the 4/8 cylinder engine, but I cured that with a Range device. Never think about how many cylinders it may be running on anymore. And, the curb view camera, Apple Airplay, and Performance Data Video Recorder are niceties as well.
Did I say I love all three??? Ron
Last edited by Ron Miller; Aug 2, 2023 at 09:57 AM.
Get the optional 3.15 gear, or upgrade. I upgraded last year to a 3.73 gear and 3200 converter. You better be a damn good manual driver to beat me from 0-60mph.
Get the optional 3.15 gear, or upgrade. I upgraded last year to a 3.73 gear and 3200 converter. You better be a damn good manual driver to beat me from 0-60mph.
Planning that mod for later this year along with a cam, headers, and tune. The car really comes alive 0-60 and with the cam and headers will sound great as well.
My '66 is Mosport Green, 2 speed Powerglide automatic
When I was a kid a family friend had a 1965 vert, Nassau Blue with the 2spd auto... I guess I should by happy with the 4spd He used to take me for rides and I loved it! That is one sharp looking era of Vette. I really wish I could fit in the older ones better. At 6'4" and 225# it's pretty rough.
I'm perfectly happy with my 1999 Automatic with the 2.73 ratio. It does country roads just fine and I don't do much more than that for "spirited" driving. I have a bad knee so I was specifically looking for the A4.
The 315 was a popular option so it is not hard. Better than a 273 but just a bit better.
The 273 gear still runs 13's in the quarter mile so it is not an issue either. Any other gears are only needed if you plan to track the car and where you live I expect that is not a primary use. But if needed they can be changed.
I know the area there a bit and since there is little racing on Maui you should be fine with either stock gear. Making a run up Haleakala on the Road to Hanna will be fine with either gear. The add MPG may help with the price of gas.
This car was light and has good power so they were conservative on gears and it delivers very good MPG because of it. But it still packs a punch. A Hawaiian Punch Lol. Sorry that slipped.
I got a 2002 a couple of years ago that had the 2.73 and it was fine. My wife said she did not want a manual, her left knee has issue from time to time. After the 1st year I got a 3.15 diff installed and it made a big difference but I had lots of fun on the back roads with the 2.73. I would just shift it myself and leave it in second most of the time (wife not in the car). We put 13k on the car and the wife drove it twice so far.
I take my car to work and deal with traffic each day on the start of my trip home before I get to fun road so for me the A4 is perfect. With that said I wanted a 6M at 1st, now I want a 3.73 diff.
You probably won't track the car, but still, the following is something to consider:
I've been running my 2001 A4 on the track for 12 years, 26 track days so far, 6 at Buttonwillow Raceway, 13 at Laguna Seca, 7 at Arizona Motorsports Park. The engine and transmission are STOCK, 119,000 miles so far, 45,000 during my ownership. Lessons I have learned are:
- It takes several mods to keep the transmission cool on a road course race track- B&M or equal finned aluminum trans pan DeWitts or equal radiator (Mine with engine oil cooler and Improved Racing engine oil thermostat also) Auxiliary trans cooler in front of the condenser Sac City Cool It to call up High fan coming off track I run Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF and change fluid and filter every six or so track days I monitor transmission temperature on track with the DIC
- Mine became more competitive when I changed from 3.15 Rear Drive to 3.73 with Wavetrac differential (a bearing began to fail in the 3.15 at Buttonwillow Raceway) - I only use 2nd and 3rd on track. MANUAL SHIFTING only. Remember, in 3rd it can do a surprise downshift at high lateral G and high throttle out of a turn, preclude this by manual downshift during turn entry prior to apex, no manual upshift until RPM is past potential auto downshift point. - I always ease off the pace for the last cool down lap, use the Cool It upon exit, park with the hood open to cool the drivetrain between sessions. I've measured front rotor temperature at 550 deg after cool down lap and parking, so I insulated all tie rod ends and lower ball joints:
- I think stock solid brake rotors are fine and have used Hawk HP Plus pads for about 8 years. I've never been wanting for more brake authority on street or track. If you upgrade rotors, slots only, no drilled rotors for track. Lots of dust with the HP plus.
- Be sure to thoroughly flush the brakes, I have found speed bleeders to be fast and efficient. Use High temperature brake fluid with high wet boiling point, examples ATE Typ 200 or Wilwood 600 plus. Do NOT let pads wear below about 50%, the pad material is an insulator between HOT rotor and brake piston. - While the A4 is not as efficient as a manual, I find that I can gain a car length on wide open throttle straights on upshift because I don't lift. - I am close to 79 and can stay in the pack on a wet track:
Some really great points, Jim. I never really thought about the thicker pad material helping insulate the piston/caliper against heat, but youre absolutely correct!!
How Do You Like Your 4spd Auto???
Ron
