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For the rear, I use the t shipping slots. I cross the rear straps to my trailer. For the front, I use wheel straps. The fronts are straight. Pretty simple and never had an issue. I never tow with the car in a gear or parking brake on. I make sure to check the strap tightness after about 1/2 hour of driving and give all 4 corners a click on the ratchet straps.
I use a wheel strap front and back. I always put in gear with the parking
brake on( which is the only time I use it) God forbid the straps come loose,
or off, you at least know, your car wont immediately roll off.
I always use 4 straps and dont forget to check your load, in the first half to a hour.
Always check the load when you stop for fuel etc.
Good luck
If you're just transporting it once the Uhaul auto haulers are pretty nice and very cheap to rent. Straps to go around the front tires and a chain in the back to go over the axle or whatever else is there and appropriate.
Is this for future track visitation or just a one time haul? I track my Z06 so I spent some good coin on Mac's equipment. Great stuff. I go through all four wheels.
This is just my own opinion but pulling from the spokes of a wheel is often not correct.
To be correct you have to draw a line from the hub to the tie down point so there can never be slack in the strap. If you are pulling from anywhere lower or higher than the line from the hub to the tie down point there is the potential for slack to be induced if you hit a big enough bump.
Nice rig. How does the Jeep do, pulling up a grade. Pull strong?
It does very well at towing. Almost too well. This particular Gladiator has the Max Tow package from the factory. 4.11 gears and rubicon axle housings. 7650lbs tow capacity and 12500lbs gross combined.
The engine can be a little annoying as it has to rev to make its power but it has plenty of power. Our travel trailer is just under 6k lbs and we can tow that over just about any mountain pass in the state going the speed limit and the throttle is no where near floored.
Major flaw in the plan though is that has very limited fuel range when towing. We usually carry at least one 5 gallon can of fuel in the bed for emergency reserves.
This thing tows, handles, and stops so well that even my wife will tow with it. Anything we ever had before this (1 tons and large 5th wheel trailers) she would die first before towing them.
This is just my own opinion but pulling from the spokes of a wheel is often not correct.
To be correct you have to draw a line from the hub to the tie down point so there can never be slack in the strap. If you are pulling from anywhere lower or higher than the line from the hub to the tie down point there is the potential for slack to be induced if you hit a big enough bump.
Maybe I'm just over thinking this though.
Thanks for pointing that out. I've got the axle straps, I might have to try the control arm method you guys have mentioned. Never thought of that.
Thanks to all who replied. Although I have been towing for decades, this was my first with a C5.
I chose to secure the car with tow straps through the wheels [3] and a strap on a rear control arm [just to try it].
I like the idea of using towing eyes that engage the frame slots, but didn't have time to procure them. I intend to get some in case I need to tow the car again. I don't intend to track the car.
I did use the rad-support "bash bars" to winch the car into the trailer, and this seemed to work well.
I always tow with the car in neutral and usually with the parking brake on.
Thanks again.
-V
Last edited by vito02; Aug 5, 2023 at 08:15 PM.
Reason: addition
I like strapping to to wheels so the suspension it can float, less chance for straps to loosen and I don't like binding the suspension, also I leave it in neutral with e-brake on, in gear any rocking could damage synchro's. just my 2 cents !!!
I have towed many vehicles and had tried many different ways of strapping them down.
But once I tried wheel straps I have never used anything else. I make sure the wheel strap is long enough to fit wide wheels and wrap around the barrels, never on just the spokes.
If what ever is being towed has solid wheels then it's axel straps, attached to A arms or around the axel housing making sure not to crush any brake line that might be in the way.
I've crossed either front or back, both sometimes. Straight back if it's a solid axel and I'm afraid of the strap slipping on the housing.
The whole reason being when you tie down the frame the vehicle can't move on it's suspension and can only bounce around with the trailer. With the wheels or suspension the vehicle can still move over bumps in 'concert' with the trailer smoothing out the road irregularities. This makes for less strain on the driveline parts. I tow with the transmission in park for automatics, neutral for manuals, no chipped gear teeth that way.
I never use the parking break unless I know the vehicle. Nothing worse than a parking brake that hasn't been used in years and is in poor shape that wouldn't release, or may break the cable applying it.
Securing on Trailer
