When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got an ‘03 C5 back in January (anniversary metallic red coupe, M6), with just 6K miles on it, WAY CRAZY! So proceeded to update and modify it as I had my previous Corvettes. Wanted some interior and exterior dress-ups, comfort upgrades, DD touch screen and a “few” cameras. I took my time figuring everything out, and completed most of these installs just last week after working out some lingering bugs. Some of these installs were unique, so hope it helps you figure some things out.
NEW STEERING WHEEL, E-BRAKE HANDLE, SHIFT **** & BOOT: This was the first mod I did back in March. I always liked the custom steering wheel I did for my ’09 C6 from DSV, she was a sweet ZHZ (see my sticky in the Audio Section): https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...p-by-step.html
...so wanted to do that again and match my shale interior. DSV is no longer in biz, so went with APSIS (they did my C6 airbag cover, not sure anyone else does these?), designing it with smooth and perfed leather, embroidered airbag cover, and burlwood accents that somewhat matched my exterior paint color.
The stock wheel came off pretty easy using a typical steering wheel puller. Once I had the puller tightened in place I gave the center bolt several good whacks with a 3 lb. sledge hammer, then turned the bolt as directed and it popped right off. The shift **** “devil’s-key” was harder and it would not budge with screw drivers from the sides. I improvised a slide-hammer: Using a ViceGrip 9LN (9” Long-Nose), I removed its twist **** replacing it with a 10” piece of 5/16” threaded rod, put on the slide hammer and secured it with a nut. Adjusted the rod to get the jaws firmly gripped and locked on the key, and viola, it came out on the first whack. The 2-tone shale leather boot came from Mamo.
NEW BATTERY: I needed a couple of extra power-connections from the battery (DieHard 75-2 came with the car), but the ultra-shallow stock side-terminals give you very little post-space if any, for extra rings, so I decided on trying a new dual-terminal, but could only find size 75 on Optima AGMs. My local CarQuest recommended the DieHard Silver 34/78-4 (for just $175) and said it would fit? Published dimensions for this larger battery seemed iffy, but it fit in the tray perfectly, as did the bolt-down puck. I also added a battery-mat and terminal covers from Amazon.
I installed leads for my battery-tender to the inside of my right-fender cove opening (tucks away out of sight), so it’s easier to connect and disconnect, and ran wires into the cabin for my upcoming audio install. Let me say that even with all new components, attaching the side-post terminals, with covers, is a real P-I-T-F-A!
HOLSTER MOUNT: I always leave a handgun in each vehicle (no carry-permit) and saw a few nice solutions on CorFor, but went with a reachable mount hidden behind the passenger seat (likely illegal everywhere). I cut a section of 1/8“ aluminum diamond plate as a support backer behind the carpet, with a bent kickout (painted that) and carpet-tacks at the bottom, and a drilled-out slit to lock-in the holster clip retainer. This holster from Amazon has a spare magazine pocket and fits both my full-size .40 S&W and compact Beretta just fine.
. I removed the sill and pillar covers to move the carpet around, separate the foam padding and line up the backer position, then cut a small 1” slit in the carpet with a hot-knife at the top of the backer. The clip goes through the slit, behind and onto the top edge of the backer, and locks into place on that slot. This works fine for me and is easy to draw, with the passenger seat moved up an inch or so.
Here is a scale PDF if anyone wants to give it a try (OOPS, upload module would not let me upload a PDF, will try later, so here's a PNG for now):
NEW CENTER BEZEL: As others here have done I went with the VetteNuts Double-Din bezel in shale, but their “shale” is not a very good color match (way too tan or brown), so I repainted it. After testing a couple of different “LVP” (leather-vinyl-plastic) paints, two were close: “HARPY Med Dark Neutral WA9648” on Amazon was a touch too green, so I went with “ColorBond LVP #153 GM M DK NEUTRAL,” which was almost dead-on. I lightly scoured the bezel then put on a couple of coats. I considered adding an LVP satin clear but thought it matched better without it. I also added an eyeglasses holder-loop that I fashioned from aluminum sheeting to the top-right, bent to shape, painted and secured by a HU screw. https://www.colorbondpaint.com/produ...iant=311754069
The match for the light-shale trim color is ColorBond LVP #156 GM SHALE, and painted my add-on headrest pads, phone-holder flex-stalk, liter bag and Travel Buddy cup holder. This paint matches the seat leather, carpet and lower trim really well:
NEW HEAD UNIT: I almost went with Alpine, but decided on the KENWOOD DMX-958XR. This feature-packed HU has CarPlay (no CD/DVD), on screen Nav (via your smartphone), iDatalink, Bluetooth, SiriusXM, WiFi, USB, HDMI, Video-Out, 1/8” accessory plug, microphone, GPS antenna, 4 camera connections and a short chassis for an easy install. I created a detailed plan of all the elements then ordered all the parts I needed (this was supposed to be a PDF, but PDFs aren't uploading, so PNG for now):
With this HU you can directly control and view a Dash-Cam, front bumper Curb-Cam, B/U-Cam and blind spot Side-Cam (more on those next). I got mine on Amazon with an extended warranty and bundled with a b/u-cam for $70 in savings. I also installed/connected SiriusXM and ran its and the HU’s GPS antennas through the big firewall grommet and into the engine bay. Using the Axxess-XSVI-2004 Interface, spliced into the VSS speed-sensor wire under the gauge-cluster and ran the illumination wire directly from the HVAC harness to the HU (bypassed the Axxess), added a small 4700uF/16v capacitor to the Axxess power wires and ground to fix their RAP-restart thing, as discussed on other CorFor posts (no HU restart now when removing key or going from keyed ACC to Start). Afterward my radio reception seemed weak but none of the CorFor tips I went through helped (5v pink wire, 12v green wire, nor new antenna), but I’m not using the radio much anyway. From the HU I ran the USB and HDMI connections to a combo-outlet insert in the armrest console, and 1/8” auxillary connection to a new outlet next to the ashtray power-plug. For easy access to future connections I ran a RCA cord from the Video-Out plug and the Steering Wheel Controls wire (bundled with an ACC & NEG wire) to the lower dash area behind and below the ignition.
NEW CAMERAS: As shown on my install plan PDF (???), I wanted to use multiple cameras, for both safety and legal reasons, especially since the Kenwood HU could control and monitor those. On the HU you simply press the CAM button and the view from the last camera used fills the screen, then you touch any of the upper 4 camera icons (Left, Rear, Front or DashCam, fewer choices if fewer cameras are installed) to switch views or change settings for that camera. Here is what I installed and some info on each...
1) KENWOOD DRV-N520, Front Dash-Cam: A 6-pin plug and RCA plug connects to and is completely controlled by the HU. You can view the live feed, review recorded footage and change settings directly on the HU. GPS data is pulled from the HU’s GPS antenna. It has incident-recording even while parked and you can process/edit/save footage from the MiniSD card on your computer (with Kenwood’s DriveReviewer software). Mounted this in front of the rearview mirror:
Here you see the live feed, notice "Dash Cam" is highlighted in upper right:
2) KENWOOD CMOS-740HD, B/U-Cam: This has great resolution and the feed appears automatically with or without guidelines in reverse. You can view it anytime and change settings on the HU (does not record). As mentioned I got this bundled with the HU. Mounted it dead-center on the bumper kick-out above the license plate:
3) KENWOOD CMOS-320, Front Curb-Cam: This camera has 2 proprietary control wires that connect to the HU harness (as well as the RCA connector), that let you switch between 4 separate views directly on the HU (135° wide, 195° super-wide, down, and left/right split views), plus guidelines and settings are controlled on the HU (does not record). This could also be a b/u camera (you can connect and fully-control 2 of these same cameras with the HU). I wanted an “accurate” curb-cam, so I fabricated an opening with a protective lip in an inexpensive ($33) clear license plate cover, then spray painted it to match the car. https://www.corvettecentral.com/acce...bplate%2bcover -- or you can order one painted with or w/o the embossed Corvette lettering https://amtcustomdesigns.com/shop/c5...bumper-filler/ The camera is positioned at the lower dead-center of the cover and sticks out enough to see exactly where a curb is or anything else at the front. The clear covers don’t need a primer, just scuffing then the color coats and clearcoat. I then put a piece of Xpel over it, and mounted my college fandom-stuff on it.
NOTE: The first CMOS-320 I ordered was from Amazon but its on-screen settings and control text were in Japanese, so be careful which one you order (returned it and got one from Crutchfield):
Here are the 4 different views from this camera (that expansion joint is about a foot in front):
4) GREEN-YI Side-View (blind-spot) Camera: I almost didn’t install this one as it required the most effort, but I had an extra camera port I could use, so... I painted the camera-mount to match the body (this camera’s protective mount was why I chose it over another Kenwood camera) and installed it under my driver’s side-mirror (you could put it almost anywhere). Took off the door panel, popped the mirror-glass off its motor, took the whole mirror housing off the door, drilled a 3/8” hole on bottom of the housing, mounted the camera, snaked and ran the wires through the housing, pivot knuckles, door, wiring accordion, side-panel, lower dash and up to behind the HU, where it was powered and connected. Getting the mirror back on the motor was frustrating and took some effort but nothing broke. On the HU you just touch the “Left-Camera” indicator and it views instantly on the screen (this also does not record). I’ve used it a few times and no more blind spot!
5) & 6) KENWOOD STZ-RF200WD, HD Dual Dash-Cams: This is a separate stand-alone dash-cam system with 2 cameras (made for motorcycles, ATVs and racing). I wanted cameras that recorded both the rear and interior of the car so this was perfect. It does not connect to or is viewed from the HU, but you can view these on your smartphone, or from the MiniSD card on your computer (with Kenwood’s Motorsports Cam Viewer software). The system consists of a small DVR-Control unit that I placed in the glovebox, from there one camera runs to the back (next to the b/u camera) using their 3-meter extension wire (an extra cost), and the other camera to the right-dash (bottom of the passenger a-pillar), which I painted to match the dash. A wired remote control runs from the DVR to inside the center armrest console, and a GPS antenna runs into the engine bay. As with most dash-cams there are separate recordings from each camera, including incident-recording (even while parked), sound, GPS and speed data.
GPS ANTENNAS: I had to install 3 separate ones (HU, XM and STZ), and since I was running a few other wires through the big firewall grommet chose a flat area in the engine bay. So far they work fine and no conflicts:
That makes 6 separate fully-operational cameras, almost got me a Google car here!
KENWOOD CAX-HL10QI & MOUNT: Kenwood also makes this decent wireless phone charger-holder. It has some drawbacks but I like it. If you power it with an actual QuickCharge power source and PD to PD (USB-C) cable, it recharges your phone really fast.
I ran power to the plug then heat-shrinked the connectors, added the PD cable, taped it all together and put it somewhat loose up in the lower dash below the ignition (for easy access later), and ran the cable to the stalk-mount. I’ve always used a flexible stalk-mount, as I like the various holders that can be used and a floor-mount works on most any vehicle.
I then welded the Arkon seat-bolt foot to the bottom of the stalk (no other way to attach it securely) and drilled-out the stalk’s top opening to fit the Arkon swivel ball-mount post. Painted the stalk and mounts light-shale and satin clearcoat, then bolted it to the front-left passenger seat bolt. Works well and can be positioned to avoid the cupholder, e-brake and passenger.
POWER WIRING NOTES: I refrained from adding too many connections to any one source. For the two 12v constant connections (the two dash-cam systems that can record while parked), I ran one connection from the nixed armrest power-plug and the other from the spare-loose 12v+ wire in the upper-left BCM area. For ACC needs I split all the needed connections to 3 different sources; 1) Loose ACC wire at upper-left BCM, 2) Ignition stalk (spliced into brown wire), and 3) Add-A-Fuse to #11 in fuse-box. For all the negative-ground connections I installed a slim distribution-block connected directly to the battery and nestled it just under the fuse-box:
NEW SPEAKERS: After completing two Bose-removal audio installs in previous Vettes, I decided to leave the Bose alone on this one, so I’m just replacing the stock speakers for now. Decided to go with matching Infinity Reference Series speakers; coax 3-1/2” fronts (3032CFX) and coax 6-1/2” rears (6532IX). You need Metra stock-wiring adapters for the rear, and the stock 3-1/2” wiring-spade sizes are reversed (I removed and crimped-on correct spades to the stock wires). These Infinity rears have angled tweeters for better positioning and a boost-gain switch. The sound is far better than stock, especially with the HU’s advanced audio-controls.
Almost done here. CUPHOLDERS: A man needs 2 cupholders, right?I initially tried the single Travel-Buddy and painted it light-shale:
...which worked fine, but I wanted TWO fully functional cupholders. Back in 2005 I had this molded double-cupholder in my first C5 and liked it just fine, but it wasn’t available now, at first... then later in July I was able to get one... and now I see it’s out of stock again: https://www.mamotorworks.com/corvett...-holder-606061 or https://www.westcoastcorvette.com/pr...97-2004-c5-z06 At first it didn’t work with the VetteNuts DD-bezel cup-lid (open lid has to fit up into the bottom of cupholder), so took that lid off, as well as the connecting hardware. Painted it to match the bezel, and satin clearcoated it for extra protection:
To properly mount the cupholder you set the left cup into the stock cupholder opening and drive a small provided screw through the cup’s bottom and into the bezel. Instead I used a short wide-head bolt and nut; drilled a hole through to align, then epoxied the nut on the bottom under the bezel, then screwed in the bolt from the top to the nut underneath. The cupholder only sticks out as much as the T-B cupholder, so not a bad solution. Lastly, added teflon-tape on the back of the cupholder where it meets the ashtray door, so now the door can open and close without marring (as shown here with door closed):
So that’s a wrap folks! Please pardon any typos or screw ups, just wanted to show you what I did. Next up will be some much needed Xpel repair, Corsa catbacks, window tinting and of course... more silly modding!
Last edited by Thrash; Sep 5, 2023 at 09:55 AM.
Reason: Updates
WHEW..........I'm worn out from just reading it all. I gotta say that trick with the vise grips as a slide hammer was brilliant. Everything nicely done.
Multi-faceted installs
