Anybody running that oil?

 

Nothing wrong with it if that’s what your asking.

 

thank Mc I’m just curious to know how It is compare with M1

 

I have a 2001 C5 that always had a tick, tick, tick sound until the engine warmed up then no tick sound. Used Mobile 1 since I bought it with 1900 miles on the odometer many years ago. Last year I went to a drive up Valvoline oil change shop and had them put in 5-30 synthetic Dextrose (may be the oil that you referenced) and the ticking start up is MUCH quieter. You have to listen for it. The car now has about 48k miles on it. Give it a try. I'm sticking with Valvoline from now on.

 

sounds good, I’ll give it a try it’ll be the first time I’m turning my back to M1

 

I used to run that oil and is cheap at Wally World when on sale. Nothing wrong with Valvoline. I usually run it or the NAPA house synthetic 5-30.
https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/col...-oil-sae-5w-30
TDS:
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...c-48df3793b338

I have running been the NAPA house brand, which is made by Ashland oil, the makers of Valvoline. Its Dexos 1, Gen 3, GM approved oil, the same as the depicted Valvoline "Advanced". The NAPA stuff is on sale right now. With four cars to maintain, I just bought 7 gallons. Free shipping, if you like. I just drove the Coupe over to pick it up myself locally.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOL75521

 

Valvoline is good oil, I used it in my old Explorer. in my two C5's and my '65 C2 I exclusively use Amsoil.

 

My next change is going to be 0W40 M1 Euro spec
it’s $27 for the 5qt jugs delivered from Amazon.
it meets Porsche A40 standard for the GT3.

That. Valvoline meets the standard as well and that’s a good price for the oil. I wouldn’t pay full price based on other choices.
That Valvoline is a group 3 oil the Mobile 1 Euro is a group 4.
Basically , one is legally synthetic. The other isn’t actually is fully synthetic.

 

Why not go with a 5w40 weight oil, zero weight can damage the crankshaft and rod bearing on a cold start

 

At an earlier time in my life I owned & operated two Valvoline Oil Change centers in Florida. I know Valvoline inside & out....cannot go wrong with the brand..IMHO.

 

For what it is worth, 540 Rat lists Valvoline Advanced synthetic as having “incredible wear protection”.
I’ve run it, but I do 3K oil changes, so not sure my experience is relevant.

 

I have been using Rotella T6 full synthetic for years. I will use nothing else. Myriad of reasons why.

 

The zero weight will flow quicker with less wear at startup.
Either is fine nothing will get damaged. The 40 works better for my type of driving and in my climate. My gas mileage will probably suffer but I could care less in this car.

 

0w is fine for cold start. I actually prefer it, as I don't drive exclusively in southern climates. But realistically, it doesn't really matter. 0w is good to pour at -40C, and 5w is good to pour at -35C. And if you're driving below -20C regularly, you probably have may other considerations besides oil weight to contend with.

https://s18391.pcdn.co/wp-content/up...a-T6-0W-40.jpg

 

For me it was going to the 40w because I drive the car hard and the 40 will protect better at the higher oil temps. . The 0 VS 5 really doesn’t matter to me.

 

I've been using Valvoline the last two years. It seems fine.

 

47 years for me. I'm the only person who's ever changed the oil in my Vette and it's been Valvoline from day one...

 

I think when it comes to oil people really get wrapped up a bit to much. That is if they drive normally and only get on it once in awhile. For some others things may be different.
The first thing is what the factory specs. This is what me I’ll be gentle with. One key aspect is fuel mileage. The thin oil and low tension rings are to create better mileage. The other is the expectation that you will be driving like a normal person not shifting at redline every chance you get. Higher second number protect better with higher heat. That doesn’t mean someone should go buy straight 50 weight.
Next would be what is fully synthetic versus legally synthetic. This is your group 3 Hudrocracked vs the group 4 POA. Plenty of articles on that, but the POA oils are more stable and offer better protection.
Oil weight. This is a temperature and bearing tolerance discussion. High temps and tighter bearings use higher second number IE the 40 in 0w40
For colder temps lower first number. The difference between 0 vs 5 is about 5 deg C so it’s not an issue.
Marketing. This one is subjective and each person needs to decide what’s legit and what’s BS.

I’ve said it before. This site has two very different types of owners. On one side are guys who do mostly cruise in’s and have mostly if not outright stock cars.
On the other side is your Autocross, Track, and Drag/Street race crowd who push their cars hard.
The needs between the two crowds are different.

 

Both oils are fine.. they are made to a spec. Like a tape measure 12” is one foot no matter what one you use here.

You can use more durable oils but most never need it. Like having Ceramic rotors and street driving you never approach the limits of the brakes or oils.
it just cost you more money.

As for vanishing ticks etc that is either due to mechanical or mental changes.

People really do not understand oils and over think them.

The best think is to read the specs and go to an oil site to learn what theyb really mean and can do.

If you have a flat tappet car you really need to start learning what will preserve your lifters. The phosphates and zink are gone and it can shorten the life of a flat tappet cam. I moved to a Mobil 1 racing oil to get back the missing products.

 

Valvoline Extended Protection full synthetic may be the best oil currently on the market for street cars. I’ve read some reviews and test results that are very impressive.

I’ve used Mobile 1 and it’s fine too. Still, various brands are going to break through and raise the bar from time to time. It’s Valvoline’s turn on the podium for now.

BTW, I had used Valvoline race oils in my endurance racing boats for years. They were my go to and often found it at the local parts store. Affordable, considering, and dependable.