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Engine Maintenance with the engine out

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Old May 6, 2024 | 03:44 PM
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Default Engine Maintenance with the engine out

I have 2000 C5 convertible ,auto with 190K on the clock. I'm thinking of pulling the motor soon to address the rear seal, and upper oil pan gasket. So the question is, if I have the motor out, what should address? Should a rebuld the top half while she is out. She runs fine, and is strong, and appears the oil was changed regularly, but still she has 190K on the clock. I would hate to put the effort in to pull the motor in the garage only to over look something.

Work done:
Lower pan gasket,
timing cover, and crank seal,
Water pump, thermo and seals,
All coolant hoses and replaced
Crank postion sensor and gasket,
Oil temp, and gasket. (above the starter)
Oil filter/fitting housing gasket
Oil Pressure Sensor and gasket
Intake gaskets
Steering rack
Knock sensors and hardness

Questioning, should I replace the following if I pull the motor?

Timing chain
Oil pump
Cam
Lifters
Heads maintanance
Read main seal
Steering High pressure hose

Did I miss anything?
Once this is done, I need to address a rear seals on the trans, or diff seal. I already replaced the axal seals.

Thanks guys and gals/ I appreceiate your experienace and/or opinon.
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Old May 6, 2024 | 04:19 PM
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If I go so far as to have the engine out, I'm hopeful I have the resources to go ahead and have the block cleaned, the cylinders professionally honed, and then go with new rings, bearings, oil pump, and timing set. Even with lots of threads and videos indicating 200K cylinders looking like factory, I just worry that so many heat cycles could seriously affect ring tension. As a 2000 convertible, I'd have to seriously ponder the cam and heads. Personally, I wouldn't get carried away on too much cam -- I'm much more of a fan of improved mid range power than all out top end. With so many cylinder head offerings, It's difficult to point to a best option. I'd probably try to find the perfect Richard Holdener youtube.
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Old May 6, 2024 | 07:08 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I’m not looking for anything crazy. This is not a hotrod!!! I’ve heard these engines are well built, and the bottom half is rock solid. I know I could go down the rabbit hole, but I need to draw the line some where. Just looking for the basics I guess.
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Old May 7, 2024 | 10:37 AM
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If it was me, with 190,000, & I was planning to keep it for the foreseeable future, I'd be thinking full rebuild. Maybe even cam, heads, intake, along with everything else you mentioned. Also, replace the oil plug (barbell) on the rear side of the engine. The OEM one is plastic, use a billet one. They are like $25.
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Old May 7, 2024 | 01:07 PM
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Pin the crank pin the crank pin the crank. Man I wish my buddy pinned my crank when he had it out before I owned it.
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Old May 7, 2024 | 01:09 PM
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And the tq tube
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Old May 8, 2024 | 09:20 AM
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I'd change the water pump. Since you are pulling the motor out, too easy and they are not that expensive. I bought a new GM OEM NOS one I found and was gonna change mine out when I added the SC
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Old May 9, 2024 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JamesPerconte
Thanks for the reply. I’m not looking for anything crazy. This is not a hotrod!!! I’ve heard these engines are well built, and the bottom half is rock solid. I know I could go down the rabbit hole, but I need to draw the line some where. Just looking for the basics I guess.
Not a hot rod, I get that. But…while a standard valve job will cost $650, Texas speed will do a CNC valve job AND port the heads for $$900. That’s additional hp through the rpm range with no negative driving characteristics. Match that with a GM Z06 cam and springs, and you’ll have a smooth idling engine with about 50+ more hp with stock exhaust and emissions. The very first romp up a freeway on ramp will put a smile on your face.



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