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I see lots problems with the factory original harmonic balancer, what replacement brand and part number are you using? Where did ya get it from and how much did you pay? I have a stock '01 LS1 w/ 33K miles.
In my '99 with 90k+ miles, I had mine replaced at the dealer. The cost was about $900 P&L with a 2-year warranty; the OEM balancers are fine more often than not, you're only going to hear about people with issues.
The Summit SUM-C2501C is the one to use. Better quality and better price.
As for price depends on what you go when it is appart. I would put the new cover on and the new desl that comes in it Sum-G6320.
It is cheap and will prevent leaks.
I would skip the timing chain at that mileage. Water pump I would change if original as the seal can go by age more than miles.
I would put in a thermostat, replace the belts while off if original. Check or replace the tensioners.
While it is a-part that is the time to do preventive upkeep since the parts are off if you plan to keep it.
The Summit SUM-C2501C is the one to use. Better quality and better price.
As for price depends on what you go when it is appart. I would put the new cover on and the new desl that comes in it Sum-G6320.
It is cheap and will prevent leaks.
I would skip the timing chain at that mileage. Water pump I would change if original as the seal can go by age more than miles.
I would put in a thermostat, replace the belts while off if original. Check or replace the tensioners.
While it is a-part that is the time to do preventive upkeep since the parts are off if you plan to keep it.
Good time to slide in a mild cam too while you have the front apart
+1 for the Summit Racing LS damper. I paid $200 about 2 years ago for mine. It comes with a certificate card in the event you ever want to drag race your car. Apparently drag strips ask for this verification.
Some people go with the ATI super damper. But it's double the cost of the Summit damper.
The Summit SUM-C2501C is the one to use. Better quality and better price.
As for price depends on what you go when it is appart. I would put the new cover on and the new desl that comes in it Sum-G6320.
It is cheap and will prevent leaks.
I would skip the timing chain at that mileage. Water pump I would change if original as the seal can go by age more than miles.
I would put in a thermostat, replace the belts while off if original. Check or replace the tensioners.
While it is a-part that is the time to do preventive upkeep since the parts are off if you plan to keep it.
You used a part non OEM?!?!?!?!? There goes the value.
I went with ATI mostly to support a local company.
You used a part non OEM?!?!?!?!? There goes the value.
I went with ATI mostly to support a local company.
I did not change mine yet. But if the part that is on the car is inferior to where it can cause engine damage I will upgrade. That how it is if you use common sense.
If you are pure racing with high HP. 800 HP or more the ATI is the way to go. The Summit is bullet proof for racing and street. Anything lesser is likely to fail like the stock if it is similar to stock. They were not made for racing or long term use with hard driving.
The ATI can be rebuilt to keep the SFI rating at ten years.
I will use the Summit as it is local. Also $200 cheaper.
I did not change mine yet. But if the part that is on the car is inferior to where it can cause engine damage I will upgrade. That how it is if you use common sense.
If you are pure racing with high HP. 800 HP or more the ATI is the way to go. The Summit is bullet proof for racing and street. Anything lesser is likely to fail like the stock if it is similar to stock. They were not made for racing or long term use with hard driving.
The ATI can be rebuilt to keep the SFI rating at ten years.
I will use the Summit as it is local. Also $200 cheaper.
These are all made with elastomer, so won’t the engined get blowed?
These are all made with elastomer, so won’t the engined get blowed?
Not all made to the same quality and standards. The GM one was made to a price point and we are seeing the damage it can have as it ages under hard use. If it was in grandmas Impala it would be just fine.
The SFI also models have a bit different design and are made not only of a higher quality but also made to hold up at higher limits. I know the Summit is good for 8,000 RPM and will not be hurt with the stock red line.
The ATI weighs about 3-4lbs less than the Summit one. I had both in my hands, and it felt substantial. I decided to keep the ATI because I got it used for a great deal, and I liked the idea of less rotational mass on the crank.
The ATI weighs about 3-4lbs less than the Summit one. I had both in my hands, and it felt substantial. I decided to keep the ATI because I got it used for a great deal, and I liked the idea of less rotational mass on the crank.
The best way to look at this is they all will work on the street.
The Summit is more street and strip and all around use.
The ATI is more intended for mega race engines and is really over built to take dynamics most cars never seen. Hence the $200 more.
The stock is fine If you do not plan on keep the car. If you are keeping it long term or modifying it you want one of the others.
Not all made to the same quality and standards. The GM one was made to a price point and we are seeing the damage it can have as it ages under hard use. If it was in grandmas Impala it would be just fine.
The SFI also models have a bit different design and are made not only of a higher quality but also made to hold up at higher limits. I know the Summit is good for 8,000 RPM and will not be hurt with the stock red line.
Actually they are known to fail on many GM V8s, even Grandma's Impala. I had a 2000 6.0 fail and my buddy's 07 5.3 failed.
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harmonic balancer
