Are there any anti-venom mod experts out there? When removing the plug I feel a lot of resistance. I know that the bolt is spring loaded on the end with the ball. Once I get it out, is it easy to thread back in? Just curious, because it is in a tough spot to reach when laying on your back. Thanks!

 

cross threads very easy, done previous ??

 

Not sure if this was ever done in the past. My guess is that it hasn't.

 

Never mind.

 

Did mine last year.........took all of 10 minutes and that included getting the rear end on ramps. No solenoid and no resistence.

 

When I did it the resistance was due to some old thread sealant....just take your time when putting it back on to not crossthread.

 

I didn't have any issues with this mod. But I did go with 1 washer instead of 2, which is providing good feel on the shifts now.

 

No issues here. I do believe there was some resistance from the thread sealant.

 

This is very curious to me. I have an MGW shifter and I really don't like the way it shifts. It's hard to get into first or second (especially when cold) and after I monkeyed with the adjustment it seems worse. Is this anti venom procedure what I mat be looking for?

Thoughts on my adjustments? I have the sleeved collar about a quarter inch from the shifter housing when it's in second. Should be good to go. It's never been to my satisfaction though.

 

I would not expect the anti-venom mod to do much or anything for hard to get into 1st and 2nd gear. I drove my '99 for 8 years without the mod and now a year with the mod. For me, a single washer was a small, but noticeable, reduction in effort to move my otherwise stock transmission from gear to gear. No perceptible change in effort going into 1st for me. I am very happy with the small change.

 

If you pump the clutch 4-5 times before shifting into first, is it any easier? Maybe your master/slave cylinder need work.

 

I added a single washer to my Z. Seemed to make it a tiny bit easier to shift the Hurt short throw. Easy removal/install, probably 10 minutes which involved jacking up the car.

 

Realign your shifter it your piping out of gear or it’s really notchy. You may be better served by that and a lower box rebuild or replacement. It’s a easy process.

As far as the AVM. The threads could may just have sealant or dirty. I’d spray with some Kroil or liquid wrench. How much resistance are we talking ? Just not smooth or putting your arms into enough to flex muscles more than a tad with a standard wrench? Or are we talking about needing a long ratchet and some torque? It would help to know a bit better descriptions
You can chase the thread with a Tap to clean or align some rolled threads in the hole.
If it’s cross threaded you will have three options. The easy option is leave it alone. Next if you take it out is thread it back in the same way it came out. Is that a good way to handle it. Not really, but people do it and it will normally works if it’s your only option. Now before I get flamed. I consider that a you have to do what you have to do option. It would also be a big no if the faster was load bearing.

The proper option would be to drill and retap or Helicoil to repair the threads.

If you’re going to proceed then just go slow and only take a turn or two with breaks if there is a lot of resistance. You don’t want to build up a bunch of heat and strip out the threads. If you do that you should be fine IMO. Definitely buy a short tap and chase the threads to clean.

 

Since my post was long let me restate the following.
Address the shifter alignment and inspect lower box.


It’s possible the master cylinder could need replaced, but you would most likely have issues in all gears. Also checking the alignment is easy and free. You will need to remove the center console ( 4 nuts ). Then remove the radio/ac benzel. That is one screw at ashtray and one behind the AC temp sensor cover you will need to pop off. It’s an awkward movement but with the center console off you need to unplug the gas filler door release. It’s a short connector is why.
You will also unplug the 12v connectors the airbag and traction control plugs. Pop off the benzel
That’s it to get to the shifter.

Shifter cover plate has 4 bolts to remove. Now you’re looking at the shiter. This is a good time to just swap out for a MGW IMO. It will have a new lower box and better mechanics.
If not then you will realign your shifter by loosening the linkage nut. With MGW and Tick they include an alignment jig. Not sure on LG but people like them.
If factory then someone else will hopefully chime in. It’s the same process but you would have to eyeball it tighten and test. I’m sure there is some GM tool but like I said time for a MGW.
The process to swap the shifter is on their site and easy with no realistic chance of doing it wrong.