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Old Apr 25, 2025 | 08:24 PM
  #41  
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bluetooth 4.2 does not have the bandwith to support audio any where close to wired. We all use mp3 (most people) which is ok with the right compression, but any further compression sounds like garbage. An up to date chipset in your product would make it all that will ever be needed, and superior to anything available. The community here who want to keep their dash stock would absolutely support the right product. If you use the best tech , you can charge for it.
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 05:52 AM
  #42  
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Al right I heard you loud and clear, I spent few hours looking for what are my best v5.0 options, I broke the proverbial bank and ordered myself a Qualcom QCC3008.
is v5.0 specifically designed for automotive applications and has ANC. It is lossless just like the (significantly cheaper) Bluetooth chip I use for the 1k.

Unfortunately the lead time for this is many weeks, I am curious to do a side by side composition between the chips I have and this new one.
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 02:27 PM
  #43  
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I think I made a mistake. I thought you needed 5.0 to use the better audio codecs aac, LDAC, aptX. Is it the chipset that determines the codecs that can be used? Are there 4.2 chips that support it and 4.2 chips that don't?
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 06:54 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by CJL64
I think I made a mistake. I thought you needed 5.0 to use the better audio codecs aac, LDAC, aptX. Is it the chipset that determines the codecs that can be used? Are there 4.2 chips that support it and 4.2 chips that don't?
For 1K, I am using CSR8645, it does not support LDAP, but it does supports SBC, AAC, APTX, and APTX Low Latency (this is what I like about it), you can watch a video and stream the audio trough Bluetooth and you don't see any delay (you know lips sync. vs sound). I have experimented with other chips and some had noticeable delay, this is mainly the reason I choose this. And yes, is a pretty useless selection criteria, you are not supposed to watch videos while driving (please don't!), for music and phone calls this doesn't matter.
In terms of phone calls, is pretty much what you are expecting, the sound quality is pretty good, the ambient noise is low, but the volume is dependent of the distance to the microphone (is only physics). Let's put it this way, I have the same Bluetooth installed in a classic car (really noisy environment), and I can make phone calls via Bluetooth, the person on the other end has no problem hearing me (and just me not the noise around me), but I do have issue hearing the other person, that's just because the car is pretty noisy, I need to crank up the volume. Think making a call while in a convertible at HWY speeds, it will be pretty noisy, but is no fault of the Bluetooth module.
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 05:30 PM
  #45  
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AAC works well for ios users when implemented properly. AptX LL doesnt do anything for phone calls or audio streaming. LDAC, aptX HD and aptX lossless are good for android music.
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Old May 2, 2025 | 04:21 AM
  #46  
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I'm very interested in a product like this. My specific use case would be a device that connects in place of the (non-working) cd changer and provides a Bluetooth input into the stock radio. While I appreciate all the tech work you're doing to interface the stock seek controls, I'm not sure how necessary that is... It's just as easy to control the audio via a phone. Keep us abreast of your development!
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Old Sep 17, 2025 | 03:19 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 1KRetrofit
I need to explain, the actual Bluetooth module I am using is not very important. I was just listing the Bluetooth modules I have now.
Think of it like the tires on a car, or the RAM chip you install on your PC. I can install whichever I want/afford, w/o any changes to the car/PC, as long as I am keeping within the specs/limitations.

For example CSRA64215 is advertised as v5.0 (although it might be bull), so is
QCC3005 (which is indeed v5.0) and are a direct fit for the 1K version (and is ~7% difference in price). For the 1k, the best module I can find is 4.2, but my God it is so much cheaper, and in terms of sound quality and connectivity/range, is absolutely identical with the much more expensive 1K modules.

QCC514 is more suitable for headphones (hence the ANC), true noise cancelation in open space (I would say the car is an open space from this perspective) is very difficult to achieve, and whatever they claim is mostly marketing, not science.
Really the main difference (w
ildly publicized) is how much more power efficient the 5.0 devices are, we are already under 10mA to begin with, so if is 10mA or 6mA (I just stated a number, not sure if is actually 6), is really not relevant in this application, the OEM CD changer is using 300+ mA (in standard operation), and goes into the Amps for when is shifting trays around. So we are talking of less than 1% and from the marketing point of view is blown into space. Sure, if we are talking of ear buds applications, yes I agree, 1mA is significant!

I will explain my philosophy, I am looking for a plug and play solution that can be accommodated by the car OEM equipment and harness. Also I do not want to lose any existing features, so just making a Bluetooth only device, that only will be "seen" by the radio as 1 "disk" and not being able to play up to 12 "disks" as originally supported is very easy (relatively speaking), but I consider it lost of functionality.
I an working with the HUGE constrains of the E&C protocol designed in the late '80, we had no mp3, or GB size SD cards or Bluetooth back then. I am really frustrated with the 2 digit limitation for the track numbers, but I do exploit (heavily) the lack of "awareness" of the track timer rolling over 99 min so I am essentially playing infinite loop "tracks" while in Bluetooth or Aux mode.
You are so right with the remark about controlling an SD card with the very limited display in the radio. I mean finding a certain "track" (within the 99, hopefully you at least remember the "disk" number) is not easy, sometimes too many choices are making it difficult, so maybe the 2 digits limitation is for a good cause.


Here is a fun picture, I bet nobody ever saw over 74:00 on this screen (74 min is the max duration of the standard CD, original specifications).

Beyond the limits of the CD.
Beyond the limits of the CD. Get it? "disk" 12 minute 99:59, this is literally the end of time, but I went further...


Actually installing a microphone somewhere in the vehicle (which is what you need for voice calls and any rudimentary form of ANC), involves a extra harness, pulling panels, unscrewing stuff, that is not really plug and play. This is the main reason I have 2 models, 1K and 1k. The 1k (if don't care of Aux input) it plugs in the CD changer harness and gives mp3 and Bluetooth instantly. The 1K is the one that will require running a cable to bring the microphone in the driver's area, I do not see the regular person doing that, I mean you and I, enthusiasts with DIY skills will definitely prefer this "complication" for the voice calls, but we are not the average user.

Personally I would not ever install something in my car that somewhat compromises the original functionality, this is why I added microSD/USB support, it is what allows me to retain fully the OEM CD features, I am aware that most people will just use the Bluetooth to "Spotify" into the radio. Things like FM modulators (like those CD Changer they use to make), or FM modulator Bluetooth devices, or using some remote control (wired or not) to control the aftermarket device, just because you cannot integrate it with the radio directly, those are to me just like a cigarette lighter crock pot or lava lamp...
Weird enough, I am not actually against tape adapters or even better the Bluetooth tape adapter.

Regarding installing a an aftermarket head unit in the car...
Think like this, back in 1981 you spent $2000 to buy the absolute best tape player for your 1966 Mustang.
What would be today the value of this "investment"?

I do appreciate this conversation, is very constructive, it gives me great insides in what the people are expecting, and I really appreciate the diagram provided.
I hope I explained well what is my "philosophy" towards this project.


Still looking for that C5 in the Toronto area...
I created an account to send you a PM. Guess I haven't been here long enough to send private messages.

I live in TN, I have a 2002 Trans Am WS6 with a Monsoon radio without a CD Changer. I have the CD/Player button on the radio. Will this work on my car? If so, may I purchase one? If I purchase one and it doesn't work, oh well. All I want is to stream music from my phone into my car by plugging something into the CD Changer connector and it work. I'll help in anyway I can.
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Old Sep 17, 2025 | 03:31 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by mattrey
I created an account to send you a PM. Guess I haven't been here long enough to send private messages.

I live in TN, I have a 2002 Trans Am WS6 with a Monsoon radio without a CD Changer. I have the CD/Player button on the radio. Will this work on my car? If so, may I purchase one? If I purchase one and it doesn't work, oh well. All I want is to stream music from my phone into my car by plugging something into the CD Changer connector and it work. I'll help in anyway I can.
I will leave 1K to comment but last we heard he is looking for someone to test with in Toronto.

If you are a bit handy with a soldering iron and electronics you can do what I ended up doing to get BT music and handsfree. (It actually came from your form!)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-st...m_content=post
After this you have a 3.5mm jack, simply grab a 12v BT adapter of amazon (I highly recommend this one, I have 5. They are not battery powered and come on and off with the car) https://a.co/d/8t04KLJ

Together this comes on when I start the car, connects quickly, gives me pause, skip and prev and I can take calls!
Be sure for the ethernet cable you use to get a CAT 8 grade cable (you just want one with twisted pair insulation to prevent cross talk.)

Happy to give more details on how I did it.


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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 06:52 AM
  #49  
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The Discount Audio is not really a hack job. It is the best that is out. Could it be better yes but till then it works well.

The need for a CD in the player is not needed if you just go direct., Once you do that you really don't need the player that is going to jamb anyways. It is a simple plug if you need it.

The only thing that is needed is for the system to work from the radio. If you want to advance or reverse you need to use a remote bluetooth button. I found a good quality one from JBL that works well but it would be nice if it worked from the radio too.

It has CD sound quality and works well other wise. I did not need phone as when I'm out in the car the top is down and I'm not going to answer.
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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 09:26 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by korak1111
If you are a bit handy with a soldering iron and electronics you can do what I ended up doing to get BT music and handsfree. (It actually came from your form!)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-st...m_content=post
After this you have a 3.5mm jack, simply grab a 12v BT adapter of amazon (I highly recommend this one, I have 5. They are not battery powered and come on and off with the car) https://a.co/d/8t04KLJ

Together this comes on when I start the car, connects quickly, gives me pause, skip and prev and I can take calls!
Be sure for the ethernet cable you use to get a CAT 8 grade cable (you just want one with twisted pair insulation to prevent cross talk.)

Happy to give more details on how I did it.
Thinking about doing this in my C5, but as I understand it, I need a working CD player, yes? Unfortunately, both my 12 disc changer AND the dash single CD will not play CDs.
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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 09:50 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by castlemusic
Thinking about doing this in my C5, but as I understand it, I need a working CD player, yes? Unfortunately, both my 12 disc changer AND the dash single CD will not play CDs.
I think an option like the one I have where you can by pass the CD player working is important. So many of the changed are not functioning by this time. Many jamed and failed back while under warranty.
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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 12:58 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by hyperv6
I think an option like the one I have where you can by pass the CD player working is important. So many of the changed are not functioning by this time. Many jammed and failed back while under warranty.
That's definitely what I would like to do. What are you using?
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