I had not had functioning turn signals for over a year. Ordered a replacement 4way flasher and have to say that it was the most exasperating project I have tackled yet. I started with removing the knee bolster and then the switch cover. I was able to knock out the switch from the tabs that hold it in but the ended my forward progress. I could get my hand and most of my arm up behind the dash but for the life of me could not get the switch the rest of the way out of its position. Ultimately gave up and removed the center console and the radio. I was shocked at how little extra access I gained by removing the radio! I finally was able to push the switch out of its love tunnel using an extra long screwdriver and then I could pull it out and plug the new switch in. Naturally I tested the replacement switch and I had both 4ways and turn signals, yea! Believe it or not, I could not get the assembly lined up and back in its slot. So I unplugged the switch and it still took me a good while to get it lined up and then pushed all the way home, but then I was still faced with getting the wire harness plugged back in. Of course eventually I held my mouth just right and it snapped into place. I was 🩸 and bruised but when I rechecked, everything was working!

For an old guy (72) I figured I did ok and the only damage was a broken radio balance/fade **** that I’m looking to find a replacement. Any leads appreciated.

 

Well I'm 74 and I have to tell you, there are a number of things that are 'Super Frustrating' with the C5 but it applies to almost al years. Why did the engineers decide to put the flasher is just one of them. I did the same job and why they put the damn thing way up there is beyond reality i had to stop as someone was there before and broke the knee bolster, so add 30 minute and epoxy. Very frustrating !

 

Well, I’ve also got a new oil pressure sensor to put in and I’m not cutting the cowl, so I expect loads of fun. Not complaining as I will use the process to check on other things and replace gaskets and what ever else I might discover, might even do some house cleaning. Just did plugs and wires earlier this year and while no fun, it wasn’t as bad as I had built it up in my mind to be. I have a slight drivability issue that I hope to address while working under the hood this go around .

 

Well I have seen On 'YouTube' video, that there is a way using a 3/8 drive Oil Pressure Sensor socket and a very good universal joint floppy kind ( might have to find a good small one, but you can do it without the butchering of the cowl, that is also a future job for Myself ! I'd seen if you can get the video on Youtube for reference.

 

Congrats on the successful replacement of the switch. Some things on the C5 are simple to fix, others are a real PITA.

 

TIP: For a job like that, consider removing the entire front seat so you can lay flat on your back facing up. None of that is fun, but I'd much rather work under the dash on my C5 than under the dash on my Mustang race car where the seat does not come out simply, AND you have to go over the NASCAR bars in the doorway. It's a miserable experience.

 

That might have been my next move! Removing the seat, as I have done that before, would have been the easiest task involved. But, next time!!!

 

I have changed worse.

 

The answer for the flasher is to pull the dash pad. It’s a few more screws — and the two through the back of the glove box are a pain — but the access gained is tremendous and it weighs much much less than a driver’s seat.
And a big plus: you don’t risk punching the switch out from the front on 20+ year old plastic, which can (and has!) snap the ears off the mount.

 

You should cut the cowl It makes the job very simple, and you might have to do it again - it'll be even easier then. There is no trace you were there once you get the wiper trim back on. I can't image how many hours, fuel line disconnect tools, and gaskets it would take to do it by R&Ring the intake manifold.

 

I'm dreading the same fix. My (upgraded LED) turn signals all work due to the hyper flash harness installed under the steering column, , however when I do press the hazard switch, I get hyper flash and then it takes a bunch of attempts to get the button to depress and turn off the hazards. I have a new in box GM hazard switch ready to go, however even after testing that one, it has a funky on/off feel to it and I'm wondering if the new switch has the same problem as the original switch?